Almost done putting "ol'Baxter" back together and was trying to get more stopping power out of my front brake (mechanical). Reading in the Clymers book seems a bit vague on some things....setting up the brakes is one of them. My drum is like new condition, pads are good. If I set the slack adjuster so there is no drag, their isn't enough holding power in the brake to keep me stationary on a slight hill. This is a problem with a foot clutch. If I set it with a bit of drag I'm hoping I can get some performance out of the front brake, but I am worried I'll smoke the pads. A bit of drag is if I give the wheel a good spin by hand it will rotate once or twice only. Is this ok? How do you set a front brake that is mechanical? Do you have much stopping power with it?

Post by Panhandler

Kicker, I've found that setting according to manual doesn't give much for braking. the mechanical leaves a lot to be desired at the best of times but I adjust mine so it will hold but not grab, because if it grabs, then it is dragging. You just have to play with it until you can feel it barely dragging but not free wheeling enough not to work. Clymer's gives a good ballpark and just adjust your cable screw out from there. Hope that helps ya a bit. PFFP

Post by haggis

57 kicker, got to remember to chamfer the ends of the new shoes that you install. also dont forget to seat the shoes. haggis

Post by 57Kicker

Thanks Panhandler and Haggis...This helps.

CHEERS!

Post by panfreak

Seat the shoes? Do you mean having them arc'd so the radius is the same as the drum? I'm assembling front brake as well, so this post came along at a good time. I've heard of people putting sandpaper between pad and drum to take down high spots and ensure the whole pad touches. Any more thoughts????
Chewy.

Post by Panhandler

I've never gone that far to have the shoes arced but if you're going to get them done, I would take them to a brake shop and have them done properly, but, as Dennis Miller would say, that's just my opinion ;)

Post by billy

If you're hammering your 'own' rivets. I start in the middle & work outwards bothways, or start on 1 end & follow it thru. Never work both ends to the middle.
Just take the assembled shoe, 1 at a time & place them in the drum & watch where they need ground- down.Grind & re-try..Usually the end/corners.. I definitely use a GOOD respirator as you don't know what's in the brake material. Even though asbestos has been Banned here in the states anyhow. They still turn up as old stock. Better safe than sorry.
As far as 'seating or bedding' the shoes, This is done at slow, then moderate speeds slowing down easily, causing heat/cool cycles. This should be done quite a few times.
This will acclimate your shoes to their intended use..
Your brakes will work better & last longer. ;D
If you just put on your "new shoes" & hit the high speeds & made a Rapid stop, you can easily "Glaze the shoes" & affect stopping power, & possibly create heat cracks in the new lining.

Post by haggis

Good sound advice Billy.
Also when installing new shoes dont forget to loosen off the Pivot shoe stud nut, spinwheel and apply brake.
Keep the brake pressure on and tighten up the stud nut. This goes for the back mechanical brake too. Haggis

Post by billy

Haggis, Thanks, & very good point & very necessary for the job done right...
After all, Going fast is a "Rush", but not stopping well may end up in a 'rush' to the hospital.

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