motor is 80" twin plugged and andrews a grind cam
mikuni was second hand at swap meet £10
difference is like night and day
main reason for the change was I did not like the plastic top on the CV

Post by billy on Feb 10, 2006, 9:45pm

waiteitei-

Aftermarket makes decent looking chrome cv tops....
Everyone has their favorite carb, etc...
Or life would be boring!! ;D

Post by billy on Feb 11, 2006, 7:18am


Feb 10, 2006, 3:17pm, caschnd1 wrote:
Billy,

Used to be easy to get the CVs for $50 on ebay. Now they are going for closer to $70-$80 typically. People are starting to catch on. H-D dealer here used to have CVs layin' around all over the place. If you had a good relationship with someone in service they'd get you one for free. Now they've smartend up and sell em' (probably on ebay). As you pointed out, still plenty of people leaving them behind after "upgrading".

-Craig


Yea Craig, I know, people ARE catching on. (darn it) :
The're not just for evos & twinkeez, anymore !!!

Post by caschnd1 on Feb 14, 2006, 7:14pm

HOLY COW! Somebody paid $132.50 for a 1997 CV40 on eBay yesterday. This is getting ridiculous. Maybe we should stop singing the praises of the CV40.
Yeah... the CV40 blows. Terrible carb. If you have one, dump it now $25 is a fair price. You don't want that thing. LOL ;D

-Craig

Post by TravellinJones on Feb 28, 2006, 4:32am

I have a CV on my 48 panhead built to 80 ci, kicks and runs great, a little hard to start on the cold days, but retarding the distributor helps. I just have a problem in that it runs a little rich at idle and need to re-jet. I highly recommend the setup, and the price of $35 for the CV on e-bay didn't hurt!
By the way, if anyone has jet recommendations to for this setup, drop me a line. I should add that I live at 7000' altitude! Keep the shiny side up.

Mike

Post by caschnd1 on Feb 28, 2006, 6:05am

Look back at reply #2. I put a link there to my website. There is a page there that talks about CV jetting (look at the left column of links) for panheads. At 7000' you might need to lean it up a little from what I've got mine set too.

-Craig

Post by GRIFFIN49 on Mar 31, 2006, 2:05am

I notice the comments regarding a CV on a 74in Pan, what about the smaller CI pan, same jetting? I put a 98 CV off a Dyna and may not have it dialed in right. Hard to start cold or hot, but starts great once cooled off a bit.

I also know my intake is taking in some air, any suggestions on best rubber gasket to use? Have seen some that are flat, better seal or stick with the stock ones?

Any help would be appreciated.

Post by billy on Mar 31, 2006, 6:24am

GRIFFIN49-

Intake leaks cause Hard starting & possibly worse....
I'd suggest you fix the intake leaks (first)
(stock o-rings work fine)
Then pressure test for leaks.
This link of Cotten's will explain how to...
http://virtualindian.org/11techleaktest.html
Other wise you will never get it dialed in.

If you don't have a Intake psi tester, here's a nice set-up, that is reasonably priced, w/regulator.
This tool is one everyone should have.
http://www.geocities.com/mbskeam/index3.html

After you have fixed & psi tested you will find it easy to jet right.

Post by panacea on Mar 31, 2006, 12:41pm

How are you guys mounting the cv to a panhead manifold and supporting the carb?..MW

Post by caschnd1 on Mar 31, 2006, 4:44pm

Panecea,

I use an S&S intake manifold and then installed a press on adapter on my CV carb. I got the adapter on eBay. They are easy to find.
There is a photo of the adapter here:

http://groups.msn.com/craigpanheadchopperpictures/misc.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=303

To support the carb, I use a piece of 3/16" thick flat chrome stock. I attach one end to the backside of the air cleaner backing plate. Bend it about 45 degrees and bring it down to the motor case bolt between the cylinders and attache the other end there. Works really well.
You can see the support bracket in this photo:

http://groups.msn.com/craigpanheadchopperpictures/highresphotos.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=230

-Craig

Post by panacea on Apr 1, 2006, 4:10am

Craig, I looked on ebay today didn't see an adaptor for cv to pan manifold, Is it just pressed on to the carb?...MW

Post by billy on Apr 1, 2006, 7:29am

panacea-

Those ebay cv adapters are for 2 bolt intakes only.
Yes, it is (lightly)-pressed on, but before pressing, a 2 part epoxy is used, just for added insurance.
This works great!! ;D

You could have one 'custom made' for 4 bolt intake.
Or.....

Post by panacea on Apr 2, 2006, 12:53am

Billy, I have a 2 bolt S&S manifold. I still have a cv I took off my bagger thats like new. I'm thinking that would work nicely on my 84" pan if I can locate an addapter..MW

Post by caschnd1 on Apr 2, 2006, 1:52am

Panecea,

There are several on ebay today. Goto eBay and search for item #4627599915.

-Craig

Post by billy on Apr 2, 2006, 6:08am

MW-

Well then, life just got much easier !!!
I'm sure it will work nicely on your 84" Pan.

I fab similar support brackets to Craig's pic.
easy to make, just be sure the bracket you fab does not pull or push the intake, when secured.
(Craig, nice close-up !!Sharp scoot , by the way)

Just need to make it solid!!
& make sure you have no intake manifold leaks.

You can get creative w/the enrichener knob location.
I fab a baby-bracket to bolt to the backing plate, enrich/knob is right there. Mostly hidden..
(easy breezy) ;D

Post by panacea on Apr 2, 2006, 2:35pm

Thanks Craig and and Billy,I put a picture in the gallery, it's the yellow 51fl. I think a round HD air cleaner cover would be a better look than the teardrop, plus the CV would be a better carb. I dont know why but the S&S seems to run rich, but when I reduce the jet size she coughs through the carb. Possibly due to the drag pipes, which are going bye -bye.MW

Post by griffin49 on Apr 3, 2006, 11:02pm

Mar 31, 2006, 6:24am, billy wrote:
GRIFFIN49-

Intake leaks cause Hard starting & possibly worse....
I'd suggest you fix the intake leaks (first)
(stock o-rings work fine)
Then pressure test for leaks.
This link of Cotten's will explain how to...
http://virtualindian.org/11techleaktest.html
Other wise you will never get it dialed in.

If you don't have a Intake psi tester, here's a nice set-up, that is reasonably priced, w/regulator.
This tool is one everyone should have.
http://www.geocities.com/mbskeam/index3.html

After you have fixed & psi tested you will find it easy to jet right.

Thank you Billy, this information is very helpful.

Post by chucklbones on Apr 6, 2006, 2:37pm

hey now
i posted this on panhead forum with no result
will a cable work in place of the orignal solid throttle pull type i dont wish to use a after market throttle
i think the cv carb has enough spring on it to pull it back
thanks
chucklbones

Post by caschnd1 on Apr 6, 2006, 7:07pm

That's a good question. I haven't tried using a CV with the old solid cable internal throttle. As long as it's a pull type throttle it might work just fine. The CV does have a pretty good spring for return. I'd have to mock it up to be able to give a definite answer to your questions.

Maybe someone here has used a CV with a solid cable internal pull throttle and can chime in.

-Craig

Post by RussW on Apr 6, 2006, 10:53pm

I use a Legends internal throttle with a universal cable fitted to my CV, there is plenty of spring pressure to pull the throttle shut on mine.

Post by billy on Apr 7, 2006, 6:29am

chucklbones-

Yes it can be done. You need a reverse (pull) spiral,
& you will have to drill out a small bolt, for control wire to go thru (at carb) & nut it tight..(simple)

But after re-reading U asked about a universal cable.
Yes same, reverse (pull) spiral needed, & I solder the first 1.5" (min) of cable at the spiral, Just what sticks out of the cable housing. Just to keep it solid, & not kink, w/Emergency roll off. Just added Insurance.
I'm fussy that way.
CV has strong enough R spring to about catch a mouse.. ;D

(Safety Note) HD recommends using 2 cables...
Public Service Announcement.......

I'll sleep better now ;D ;D

Post by chucklbones on Apr 7, 2006, 1:41pm

hey now
thanks for the replys i dont have it on yet still useing ss b just trying to cross the i and dot the t

Post by PanPal on Apr 7, 2006, 2:58pm

I pulled my S&S shorty E off this week and bolted a CV with adapter on that came as a spare with the bike. The bore in the S&S is much larger than the CV. Is this going to be a problem? I have about a 3/16 step from the CV bore to the S&S manifold.

Post by caschnd1 on Apr 7, 2006, 5:14pm

PanPal,

I've run two different adapters. One adapter changes the S&S manifold to a rubber Evo like fitting for the CV. It's sloped and gradually changes the bore size for the carb to manifold interface. The other adapter is like yours. It presses onto the carb and there is an abrupt step from the CV bore to the S&S manifold bore. I started out with the sloped adapter, then switched to the press on using the same bike w/ same carb. I didn't notice any perfomance difference between the two setups.

-Craig

Post by PanPal on Apr 7, 2006, 7:56pm

Thanks Craig,

I'll try it the way it is. Re: C.V. carb on my 53 pan
Post by My65pan on Apr 7, 2006, 10:11pm

I just put a cv on my 74" pan with a press on style adapter. I also used the old style internal throttle components, but machined a new custom handlebar end for my drag bars to accept a stranded cable/housing set-up for the internal cable. The cv spring is plenty for return with this set-up. Cold starts and idle are way smoother than with the SS E I had on before. my 2 cents.

Post by billy on Apr 8, 2006, 6:57am

Panpal-
The differences would be comparable (in theory) to the Old Linkerts & their "Venturi" which is much smaller than the intake's I.D. & their Venturi had a flat drop at the inside end, where it just stopped abruptly....
The Venturi was made based on a fluid passing through smoothly varying constrictions & subject to changes in velocity and pressure, as described by "Bernoulli's Principle". A Venturi is a system for speeding the flow of the fluid, by constricting it in a cone-shaped tube. They are found in many applications where the speed of the fluid is important, like a carburetor.

From: The Swiss scientist, Daniel Bernoulli (1700-1782)..

So don't sweat the bigger intake ID. HD has been doing things this way from the earliest days.
The I.D. of the CV has a (cone shaped) Venturi, Bigger on the outside, funneling in smaller..

Post by Red55FL on Apr 8, 2006, 2:41pm

Billy
I am impressed!
How the hell do you remember that stuff?
Hell, I can't remember what I did yesterday much less some obscure phenomenon and the name of the guy that discovered it! Bad case of "CRS"! ???
I hadn't even thought of "Bernoulli's Principle" since I got out of Tech.

Red

Post by billy on Apr 9, 2006, 4:56am

Red-

Well, I constantly save "links" (of value) & add pertinent footnotes to them. (for easy memory triggers & quick reference)...Plus my manuals & etc..
In alphabetical order (of course)
HD is still using the same principle, as (stock) CV's push into the bigger intakes, w/rubber seal.
On the 'adapter-bolt-on CV's'...... I prefer using an "Insulating spacer", to help prevent 'heat transfer'.

Post by PanPal on Apr 10, 2006, 3:44pm

Thanks Billy!

I have the insulator, only one side of it has an O-ring. The S&S had and O-ring, but the CV adapter doesn't have the groove.

Post by billy on Apr 10, 2006, 6:54pm

PanPal-

Just use a gasket on the other side.

Post by txpan49 on Apr 11, 2006, 3:19am

Craig,

I notice you are running a 50 main jet on your Pan. I installed my CV and guess I missed the jet size cause I was running at 45 here at sea level. I think I am very lean. Do you think the 50 runs a bit on the rich side or is it just right? I have a 48 I am about to try.

Russ

Post by Mick Inniss on Jun 1, 2006, 11:15pm

You guys think a 38 mm would work on my 59 Pan with a stock motor, 74 cu? Got a chance to get one off a Sporty!!! Would I jet it like suggusted before on this Forum 50 Slow Jet, 175 Main, Needle Jet 0.115, Needle type N86E? Someone said the dimentions of the carbs are the same just different Jetting!!! Thanks Mick Inniss :-/

Post by caschnd1 on Jun 2, 2006, 12:29am

Mick,

Be careful with the Sportster CV. Some of the early ones didn't have an accelerator pump. You don't want that one. The later Sporties used the CV40, same as on the Evo.

Russ,

Sorry I missed your question! I ran a #48 on my panhead initially and it worked pretty well. But it had a tendancy to run lean in the colder months when morning temps were in the 30's. I like the #50 for winter. I think I'll switch back to the #48 for the summer now that the temps are consistantly over 100F.

-Craig

Post by mick inniss on Jun 2, 2006, 3:30pm

Thanks for the tip on the Sporty CV I don't know much about them. I guess I'll just keep searching for a 40 Thanks again Mick Inniss

Post by ozwick on Jun 4, 2006, 4:26pm

I found this link at the Perry Ruiter website regarding pull style throttle sleeve.

http://www.ruiter.ca/mc/info/PanThrottleGripSleeve.html

I have some questions.

Which model / year fitment CV to use on a 59' pan?
Which models to avoid/ no accellerator pump?
Choke cable needed?
I would want to run my stock 4 bolt manifold, what adaptors / gaskets needed?
Is it a must to re-jet if it has not been done?

Thanks

Post by 1950 bobber on Jun 4, 2006, 5:34pm

Ozwick......I use the PUSH type throttle sleeve on my S&S Super B. If you need digital pics of the sleeve spiral direction of PUSH vs. PULL...email me and I'll take some pics for you.
Jim in Seattle "1950 Bobber"

Post by ozwick on Jun 4, 2006, 5:46pm

I've been reading all of the good things about the CV. How does the S&S perform?
I would welcome some pics of your setup. I run my original push spiral setup with my Linkert and would like to stay as original as possible.

Thanks!

Post by 1950 bobber on Jun 4, 2006, 6:38pm

Ozwick...

By the way, an OEM HD PUSH type spiral that would be used on S&S Super B's... will have the spiral inside the sleeve having a Counter-Clockwise twist (or "spiral") as viewed from the spiral end view.

Jim in Seattle "1950 Bobber"

Post by 1950 bobber on Jun 4, 2006, 6:52pm

Ozwick...

You can obviously can keep the stock handlebar setup as you know since you are already running the PUSH type grip...(sorry for my post, I thought you were looking to add the PUSH type sleeve...I wasn't getting that you already had this set-up!). As for the CV vs. the S&S, I can't help you there...I never ran a CV on my Pan although I do run a CV on my 82ci Shovel and it is everything all our Pan buddies are saying here...fast start-ups, smooth and powerful running, etc. As for the accelerator-type S&S Super B...I can't imagine it running any better than the CV but to me it looks better...vanity?.... maybe! But...I would invite anyone else who knows the difference to please comment here for you.

I run a Goodson air cleaner on my S&S along with a Thunder-jet systen, an internal DaVinci power boost and I added the long "thumb screw" float bowl retaining screws. It stands the same outward distance from the motor and by adding the smaller Goodson air cleaner, it sure makes for a "beefy" see-all carb...I can only tell you it focuses your eyes toward that beefy carb immediately when you look at my Pan! Difference in performance? Don't rightly know but I'm satisfied with my system. Email me at jfranco@ureach.com and I'll get a few pics for 'ya!

Jim in Seattle "1950 Bobber"

Post by caschnd1 on Jun 5, 2006, 3:15am

Ozwick said...

I have some questions.

Which model / year fitment CV to use on a 59' pan?
Which models to avoid/ no accellerator pump?
Choke cable needed?
I would want to run my stock 4 bolt manifold, what adaptors / gaskets needed?
Is it a must to re-jet if it has not been done?

Ozwick, I'll take a shot at your questions...

1) Which model? I've used anything from '93 up to 2002 from Evo, TC88, or sportsters (the sportster was a '9.

2) Avoid any CV that doesn't have an accelerator pump. Be careful because some have the pump cast into the carb body but it's not fully machined and is not functional (I've only seen these on the Buell Blast).

3) Yes, you will need the choke cable, spring, valve, elbow, and the little black plastic part that screws it into the CV carb body.

4) Not sure how you'd use your stock manifold. Two problems... first, I don't know anyone who makes an adapter for that manifold... and second, the manifold is too short. The CV carb is too big to fit all the way back between the cylinders. Notice how long the original Linkert carb is allowing it to reach the manifold easily. You might be able to have someone custom make you an adapter, but that's a lot of trouble and I don't think it's worth it. I use and S&S intake and a press on adapter on the carb from eBay.

5) It's not likely that the jetting in any CV carb you buy is going to be perfect from the start. That would just be blind luck. Count on the fact that you're gonna need to do some work to tune it.

-Craig

Post by billy on Jun 5, 2006, 4:27am

I agree w/Craig-

Additionally, there is another variable *Ethanol* blended gas.
Seems to make a well jetted carb want to run a bit leaner=hotter.
Might depend on yer location & the fuel blends they use. If ya can believe them..

Post by ozwick on Apr 2, 2007, 4:15am

caschnd1,

I have been thinking of either rebuilding my Linkert or buying all the pieces to go with a CV. What would an average cost of all the pieces cost, minus the CV carb?

Thanks,

ozwick

Post by panacea on Apr 2, 2007, 4:36am

Ozwick, I think 88 or 89 was the first CV with a throttle pump. Mike

Post by caschnd1 on Apr 2, 2007, 4:44am

Just a quick brainstorm of additional items you'll need:

1) Air cleaner backing plate (probably $25 on eBay)
2) Air cleaner (haven't bought a K&N in so long... $25?)
3) Air cleaner cover ($15 on ebay?)
4) Press-on CV to two-bolt adapter $35

You'll need to fab a support bracket so cost depends on how you approach it. Also, you may need throttle cable and throttle depending on what system you have right now.

-Craig

Post by ozwick on Apr 2, 2007, 5:37am

So $100 for parts you listed

another $30 for a pull style spiral; I want to keep my internal stock spiral.

Can I use my stock aluminum Linkert manifold with the 4 holes or do I need to get another type of manifold?

So If I can get a nice CV for around $100, I should be into this around $250.00?

Post by caschnd1 on Apr 2, 2007, 3:13pm

Oh ... LOL... yeah... the intake manifold... I kinda forgot that important little part ;D I'm not aware of any adapter that will allow you to use the OEM intake. I'm using an S&S intake (cost ~$50 if I recall).

$100 for a CV carb is probably on the high end of the spectrum. I've never paid more the $50 for a CV on eBay and one time I got two for $48! I bid on unmolested CV carbs only. No jet kits, no thunder slides, no mods at all are my preference. You'll probably need to spend another $20 for the correct jets and a better needle so you can tune the carb properly for a panhead. So if you pay $50 for the carb and $20 for tuning pieces, that's $70.

-Craig

P.S. This stuff adds up pretty fast when you start buying it all new. I've collected most of my parts at swap meets or on eBay and it helps keep the cost down.

Post by billy on Apr 3, 2007, 4:49am

If you have access, you can machine a 4 bolt adapter...It ain't rocket science.. ;D

Good Luck..

Post by caschnd1 on Apr 3, 2007, 6:12am

Sleeper,

Have you actually used an adapter w/ a OEM 4-bolt manifold? I've considered this because it would get the carb much farther inboard, but I didn't look to me like there would be room between the cylinders for the carb to squeeze in there.

-Craig

Post by ozwick on Apr 3, 2007, 8:16am

Man,

Don't know which way to go here. Now with the additional S&S manifold it seems that the cost will be around $250. I have 2 Linkert's and am talking with Cotten now about rebuilding one of them. But, I would like better performance and mileage but not sure if I want to change everything.

What is the earliest year with the accelerator pump and the latest year of CV I can use?


Thanks for all the assistance!

ozwick

Post by henriksonne on Apr 3, 2007, 9:53am

Which CV carb will be best suited for my 61" panhead? She is a 1948. I have at feeling the current 38 mm Quicksilver from Edellbrock is to big!

Post by panacea on Apr 3, 2007, 11:08am

I have a CV off my 99 road king that was used only one year before it was replaced with a Mikuni, Wanna trade? Mike

Post by ozwick on Apr 3, 2007, 3:17pm

Panacea,

How much for the CV?

Post by caschnd1 on Apr 3, 2007, 5:44pm

Ozwick,

Yeah, if you have to go out and buy everything it adds up a bit. Most of those things can be found really cheap at swap meets, but if you are stuck buying new, it's a bit more pricey.
You can use any CV from an EVO or TC88 and most CV from sportsters. They all have the accelerator pump except the very earliest sportster CV. I've used them as old as 1990. Avoid the current Buell Blast CV. It does not have an accelerator pump.

henriksonne,

Use a CV40 for your 61" panhead. The CV40 is very happy on the smaller motors too.

-Craig

Post by henriksonne on Apr 3, 2007, 8:04pm

Hi Craig

Got a chance to buy a original 38mm CV from a 883 sporster. Will that be okay, or would you say the CV40 is a better choice? It is with acc pump.

Henrik

Post by caschnd1 on Apr 3, 2007, 10:32pm

Henrik,

I believe if you actually measure the inside diameter of a CV40 is comes out to 38mm. What year is the 883 Carb you can purchase? If it has an accelerator pump, I'm sure it will be plenty of carb for your 61" motor.

-Craig

Post by dragpipe on Apr 4, 2007, 7:12pm

bibs and fasted53,

I too own a 53 and am trying to get her goin. im definately not an expert, I only know what i see . I am wondering to whay extent has my frame been modified in the tail. i need pics or somthin to compare. i bought it in pieces and im in the final stages of thinking im done.
id love to see youre pics and any advise or knowledge you can give.
thanks guys

Post by panacea on Apr 4, 2007, 11:46pm

Ozwic, I just thought if henricsonny didn't like his edelbrock quicksilver I would gladly trade him a CV for it!

Post by pantony on Apr 9, 2007, 1:37am

henriksonne; The Quicksilver carb is not a CV carb

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