Carburetor and Fuel System
Title: Fuel
Line "route"
Worked over everything I could think of, and the first words out of their mouths when I told 'em what happened last time out were, "Vapor Lock". Followed by these two questions -"Got an in-line fuel filter?" And, "How close to the motor is the fuel line routed?"
Been wayyy too busy (my sin, here) to stay after the bike project every weekend.
I have a Pingel Hi Flow with in tank screen, so I took off the in-line filter. Used a plastic, diesel fuel line 90 deg bend to direct the petcock flow downward, and have re-routed the fuel line "around" the back jug... no touchy feelie on that hot ol' motor.
Wondering if anyone else has tried this? Do you think it's too long a route to take...? And, can the Super E get damaged/malfunction AFTER it has been put through a vapor lock? She wouldn't start after these fuel line mods. I put it off as just too cold, and me too old a kicker.
Dan'l
Post by Billy on Dec 2, 2004, 6:38am
DanL-
I'm not familiar w/plastic fuel line. It sounds like a "Fuse to light" I would use gas approved rubber line.
I'd also remove the a/c, & fuel line at carb. Holding the fuel line at the height of carb connection.
Then turn on your petcock & see if you have "strong Flow" into a can. If so re-connect to your carb & make sure you are "pumping gas" out the acc. pump. This is best to be visually seen to confirm.
If that is good replace a/c & begin 'starting ritual'
I have never had any carbs damaged from "Vapor locking".
The gas line may be longer but if it flows good, is the key. That should work.
Post by King on Dec 2, 2004, 2:28pm
Hi Danl
First off I would second Billy's comment about plastic lines. They are not chemically designed to handle gas and will become hard and brittle. I had a buddy that used a thin walled plastic line that actually cracked.
My line is routed behind the rear jug also and that does not seem to be a problem. As long as you get good flow at the carb, no worrys. One thing I have noted is, if you are using an in-line gas filter, it should be mounted vertically. I had a see-thru glass filter which I positioned horizontally behind the rear jug and that seemed to create a "lock". Now I have it vertically just below the carb inlet on my Bendix.
Howeveer, fuel starvation may not be related to vapor locks but rather to tank venting problems. The general practice is to have a non-vented cap on the left tank to prevent (or more realistically reduce) gas from leaking when you have a full tank and the bike is on the kick stand, and a vented cap on the right tank. If the venting gets plugged or reduced you have problems. This summer I had to crack open the left cap every five miles or so to keep the flow going. I drilled out the vents on my right cap and the problem seems to have gone away.
But there still appears to be a gremlin in the system since when I pull back into the barn after a long ride I find that the fuel levels in the two tanks do not match. Could I have a problem in the cross-over line?
So as long as you keep the line cool, the system vented, and have a good flow I dont think it matters how you route it.
Good Rides
King
PS: Register. This site is the best!!
Post by Danl on Dec 3, 2004, 1:23am
Thanks for the feedback, guys!
As for the fuel line... it's high grade fuel/oil line. The plastic mentioned is just a 90 deg bend out of the petcock. A buddy of mine gave me the Pingel, but it is one with a horizontal outlet... not vertical/down. With the re-routing, I needed to keep the kinks out of the line as it was going "backward", from the outlet.
I also rigged a fuel line stabilizer out of 10 ga wire (spun it around a socket a couple times to make a loop), to keep it away from the rear jug and fairly "level". Smoothed off the "snip" to make sure it didn't cut thru the line. I wrapped it around the seatpost and used my clutch cable adjustment bracket to keep it from slipping down.
I noticed a diaphragm in the "E", and I was wondering if it could have been damaged, sucking for gas. "Thanks" Panhead for the reassurance.
I also found a generator ground wire that was a little too close to the exhaust, and had become brittle. I'll replace it before I start to kick 'er over. I'm too old to expend any "extra" heartbeats!!
Man, if I could only get this bike to run like it did before the "suspected" vapor lock... What a charm! First kick, power thru the whole range, even idle. Nothing like it, is there? Wish me luck, (and good vibes to you all!) This site IS the best.
Dan'l
Post by Billy on Dec 3, 2004, 6:44am
Danl-
I guess it has good flow to carb ??
Routing sounds good.
If your s$s E is NOT pumping, then that diaphram may well be ruptured/ dryrotted.. As that IS for the pumper [acc. pump]
Check if it's pumping as I mentioned last post.
If not that is where to go. Remove the 3 screws & lid.
& see .....
Post by 1poet on Dec 3, 2004, 11:36pm
Will do... and I'll let ya' know how it "goes" this weekend. Thanks, again!
Dan'l
Post by Billy on Dec 4, 2004, 7:30am
1poet-
And Welcome to the "Registered World" here.. ;D
Post by kws1949 guest on Dec 20, 2004, 8:04am
I had that kind of problem on my pan when I first put it together. I have bendix carb not S&S. I have clear fuel line and could see fuel boil in line after warm. My problem was I did'nt have insulator block installed between manifold and carb, once I put that in all was good after hot soak,or first beer stop. I don't know if S&S uses them or not
