Carburetor and Fuel System
Title: Having
fuel problems
Any way I poured 3 gals of gas into her and went to kick en, it fired up and sounded good. I took off down the road, at about 5 miles I was sitting at a light and it began to miss like it was running out of gas, if I twisted the throttle it went flat, it finale died. I pushed it into a gas station and checked it over I could see gas in the filter but not a lot. I kicked it a few times and it fired up but died about 30 seconds later it did this for about 45 minuets (wait 10 Min's kick then it would run for a few then die) I took the gas cap off while it was running and it didn't make any difference. I thought it was the float but it seems OK (Carb rebuilt less that 40 miles)
I pushed it over to the pump and filled the tank, it only took 6/10 of a gal to top it off. I kicked it twice, it fired up just like there wasn't a problem I rode it home let it sit for 20 minuets kicked it twice it fired up and I rode it back to the gas station (Yea I know glutton for punishment) made a U turn and came back without a problem.
Bendix Carb.
I have the vent tube under the dash hooked up and clear
the line from tank to tank in the front is clear
I did put a new glass fuel filter on
I ran the fuel line from the tank to the seat post then to the carb. keeping away from the cylinder
Checked the float
I am running out of ideas I will run it tonight for about 20 miles to see if it does it again But I wanted to see if anyone has run into this or had some ideas
Thanks
Post by rigidpanman on Jul 27, 2005, 8:50pm
if it dies again remove the cap and ride it for a while and see what happens.it might not be venting properly and you will notice its not usually a problem until there is some air space in the tank for it to create a vacuum.
Post by 57pan on Jul 28, 2005, 6:50pm
Did you by any chance take the air filter off to see if it was squirting fuel when you twist the throttle? If it squirts fuel then it appears that your float is OK - or at least it is letting in enough fuel to fill the acceleratator pump reservoir.
If the float's OK then maybe you just had some crud stuck in the low speed jet. But, I'm not leaning real heavily toward this option because you said that when it started to miss and you twisted the throttle it went flat. This seems to indicate that the accel. pump res. did not have any fuel either.
So, we're back to the float I think. You said that the carb was rebuilt less than 40 miles ago so I'm thinking that the fuel problem is somehow related to the carb. rebuild. I know that things can seem perfectly OK when you're working on them at the workbench but I think somehow your float is sticking.
Just my .02
Post by 03Roadking on Jul 28, 2005, 9:30pm
I'm getting to know the owners of this gas station (nice people) rode it again last night she quit a half a block from the same gas station, this time I had a set of tools with me. But all I did was squeeze the fuel line just below the filter and bubbles floated up into the filter I did this about 6 times until no more bubbles showed up I kicked it and she fired up and I rode it home So I think it is in the float My question is has anybody had a dealing with these rubber tipped float valves verses the all steel ones
When I rebuilt the carb it had an all steel pin but both rebuild kits have the rubber tipped so that's what I put in
Post by Mbskeam on Jul 29, 2005, 1:04am
hello,
I hear and read that some fuels are messing up the vitron tiped needles.
mbskeam
Post by Sonny on Jul 29, 2005, 5:08am
Put in the all-steel pin, can't go wrong that way.
Post by 03Roadking on Jul 29, 2005, 5:05pm
Mbskeam
That was the word I was looking for (vintron) I read the same thing but I didn't put the two together I think Cotten posted that statement in another thread I will pull the carb in the morning and replace it
Post by 03Roadking on Jul 30, 2005, 12:53am
Here's something I learned today Out here we have Chevron gas which I have used for years I took the float seat to the shop where I buy my parts I was trying to match or pick up an all steel seat, when I showed it to the guy he said theres nothing wrong with it, so I told him what was happening and he said Don't use chevron gas from what he has heard the Techron additive affects the rubber tip and any other rubber that comes in direct contact with the fuel
He did not have or know where to get an all steel seat with out buying the whole rebuild kit and he was sure if he did order one in, it would come with the vitron tip does anybody here know if the all steel ones are still out there?
Post by 03Roadking on Aug 1, 2005, 5:48am
I decided to go over everything again here is what I did
Cleaned plugs
Checked timing with timing light
Removed carb checked air and fuel passages
reset float
removed pit-cock and screen took apart and cleaned
flushed tank twice I put a 5 gal can and large funnel with cheese cloth under pit-cock hole held my finger over hole poured in two gal's of gas shook tank then removed my finger and let it run into the funnel nothing came out but the gas the cloth was clean both times
fired bike up ran it around the block two times to warm it up. Came back to the house reset air screw, reset adjustable main jet, reset idle.
Rode 5 miles to my buddies house had him ride with me
(having someone to talk to while your sitting by the side of the rode Priceless)
Bike fired first kick idles nice rode three miles to gas station topped off tank (Note left cap loose just rattling on bung) bike fired first kick, we rode 35 miles to a little cigar store stopped there for a stoogie, Bike fired first kick, went three signals and it acted like it was running out of gas, twist throttle and it would go flat rolled over to the curb kicked it twice and it fired right up went about three blocks and it started to sputter, I reached down and squeezed the fuel line below the filter about five times and it came back to life. We stopped about three miles down the rode had a soda and sat there for about 1/2 hour Bike fired first kick rode it 20 miles to home without a problem. I know this is long but I wanted to tell it exactly as it went down to see if anyone could give me anymore ideas where to look.
Or if someone can tell me where to pickup an all steel float valve for a Bendix carb that's the only thing I can think of is wrong BUT if it was the Viton tip wouldn't it do it all the time??
Post by flash on Aug 1, 2005, 6:12am
try insulating the fuel line, might be vapor locking
Post by 03Roadking on Aug 1, 2005, 5:44pm
The fuel line goes down from the tank to the seat post on the frame then back up to the carb the closest it comes to the engine is about 4" I put a new insulating block between the carb and manifold, the carb is lower than the tank so the flow shouldn't be a problem you might be onto something.
What do you use for insulation??
Post by rigidpanman on Aug 1, 2005, 9:44pm
it aint vapor locking
Post by 03Roadking on Aug 1, 2005, 10:32pm
Then what is it doing ??? or not doing
Post by RussW on Aug 2, 2005, 2:10am
Why don't you try getting rid of the new glass filter and see what happens. Won't hurt to ride a few days without it, 'specially since you just flushed the tanks. Maybe it's a lousy design filter, too restrictive, gets an air bubble stuck in it, or something. Process of elimination...
Post by RussW on Aug 2, 2005, 2:15am
Just reread your post where you mentioned "cleaned your petcock screen". Have heard quite a few times on the IH board to not run both a petcock screen and an inline filter, that gravity feed isn't enough to flow well through both. Definitely try losing the inline filter.
Post by kell on Aug 2, 2005, 3:03am
03RKing
You certainly have a circuitous fuel line.
RussW
What is the "IH" board?
Post by RussW on Aug 2, 2005, 3:11am
The Horse Backstreet Choppers tech. Was thinking Iron Horse for some reason. Much confusion sets in after 50 yrs. old.....
Post by Billy on Aug 2, 2005, 7:55am
http://www.network54.com/Forum/47850
Post by fourthgear on Aug 2, 2005, 1:17pm
03
Where is your filter located , is it sideways , up & down. Some times it matters how its located in the fuel line. You should also watch how far it goes and how long a run . I like the fuel filter right below the fuel valve pointing down. I also do not like those clear type filters , I use an automotive type fuel filter or one of those billet type you can get from JP's or the like. I know some will say you can't see the fuel flow or can't see fuel in the system , but if I really think theres a problem , I take the line off the carb fitting and open the fuel valve and see how it runs into a container.
Post by kell on Aug 2, 2005, 4:20pm
Russ
I was just struck by the "IH" because I own an International Harvester light truck. An Iron Horse in its own right!
Post by 03Roadking on Aug 3, 2005, 5:13am
Kell
I didn't want to run the fuel line to close to the cylinders
Fourthgear
The filter is right under the shut off straight down The only reason I put one in was to be able to tell if the carb was getting fuel. I have had this problem since I got the bike running so if your saying that it's not a good idea to run two filters maybe I should take out the filter in the tank seeing how it has been there since the start of this problem and just leave the glass one in What do you think???
Post by fourthgear on Aug 4, 2005, 1:27pm
03
The screen type filters ,in my opinion will not restrict flow very much so both of them should not effect any thing unless they are clogged up . You say you have air bubbles in the line after running awhile , you should ask yourself where is air getting into the fuel line and or how. You say your running a Bendix , is the bowl vent clear ? I have to look , but some carbs have an exterior vent( Linkert ) and some have internal vents or venting into the throttle body.
I have had no problems running fuel lines (rubber) in between the cly. as long as they are properly bracketed to keep them away from the hot stuff and keep runs as short as possible.
Post by 03Roadking on Aug 4, 2005, 4:52pm
Fourthgear
When I squeeze the line under the filter the bubbles come up from the rest of the line My thought is the line is empty and when I squeeze it I am pushing gas back into the line and the bubbles come up into the filter like the old out board motors with the bulb that you had to prime before starting
As far as the line, maybe it's too far of a run for the fuel
Maybe what I should do is route it between the cylinders like it was from the factory just to see what happens I might be a victim of over kill running the line from the shut off to the seat post then up to the carb It might be the weight of the fuel and the pressure in the tank is not enough to push enough fuel that far.
Post by Jim Shoe on Aug 4, 2005, 7:04pm
Yes I would try running it the factory route. You may have a bit of overkill, on your gas line's long journery around the seat post.
Trying costs nothing.
If it corrects things = priceless
Post by rigidpanman on Aug 4, 2005, 9:54pm
just my two cents,you have 14 pounds per square inch of atmospheric pressure pushing on the gas in the tank,if thats not enough,then god knows you have issues.
Post by Red55FL on Aug 4, 2005, 10:44pm
Someone said that it isn't vapor lock.
But the vapor or air is getting in the fuel line some how.
It has to be either a tank venting problem or vapor lock. If it was a problem with the needle valve sticking closed, I would not think there would be air in the fuel line, it should stay full.
I would try two things.
First, with the gas caps installed as normal, remove the fuel line from the carburetor and put the line in a bucket. Open the gas valve and let the gas run into the bucket. If the gas flows freely at first but starts to slow down or stop, there is a problem with the vent cap. If it runs freely till the tank is empty, the vent cap is OK.
Second, reroute the fuel line. As has already been said, it won't cost anything & if the problem is vapor lock, it could help.
One thing that I thought about is the hose itself. I once had a gas hose that looked good on the outside, but had swelled on the inside restricting flow. Cotten has pointed out several times that gas these days is attacking elastomers that never gave problems before. Just a thought.
Red
Post by kell on Aug 4, 2005, 11:40pm
In fact air exerts no force on the gas, because you have no pressure differential. Air pressure at the ends of the gas line cancels out to basically zero. You need a pump to put pressure on a line. And if you had 14 psi on a line, it would have enough force push water 32 feet STRAIGHT UP, and it could push gasoline, which weighs less than water, even higher than that...
So no, the gas line is gravity fed, that's all that's pushing the gas through it, just the weight of the gas itself, which is why it's vulnerable to getting obstructed by such minor stuff as a bubble or an extra filter...
Post by 03Roadking on Aug 5, 2005, 5:38pm
Red
I will try the bucket Idea tomorrow if it runs dry without slowing I will shorten the fuel line and give it a go
Post by wrencher on Aug 7, 2005, 3:25am
Still sounds like the bowl vent to me. It's a gravity feed system and has no "pressure" on the fuel. As the gas runs down the line, it forces the air out of the float bowl as it fills up. The air is supposed to vent through the bowl vent. It's kinda like drinking a beer out of one of these new tab top cans. If you just turn it up, it kinda chugs out because it's having to get air back into the can through the same opening the beer is coming out of. The older cans, the ones you had to have a "church key" can opener for, you always put two holes in the top of the can directly across from each other. The beer would flow out in a smooth continous stream because the hole on the other side acted as a vent. Only difference between a beer can and a carb is that we're trying to empty one and fill the other. (BG)
Post by wrencher on Aug 8, 2005, 3:14am
Just thought of something, did you change the air cleaner or anything in that area? If you put on the wrong air cleaner, the backing plate might be covering the bowl vent on that Bendix. You can use an air cleaner designed for a Kiehen butterfly type carb.
Post by King on Aug 8, 2005, 2:05pm
Road King
I would lean towards some venting problem in the carb preventing fuel from filling the bowl. Especially since the problem persisted when you took the gas cap off. I had a fuel starvation problem when the level of gas got to be about half tanks which was corrected by twisting off the left (unvented) cap from time to time. Now I carry two left tank caps an unvented one when I fill her up that I replace with a vented one when under way.
I would also think that it is not the classic vapor lock as you have routed the fuel lines well away from heat sources. But I agree that the shorter the line the better.
Does any one know where the Bendix bowl vent is? I think it is on the face of the throttle body but I’m not sure. If it is, the wrong air filer back plate would definitely cause problems.
By the way, I found that a manifold O ring makes a good gasket for the old tall gas caps that originally had the cork gaskets in them.
Oh for the days of church keys and three beer drunks!!
King
Post by 03Roadking on Aug 11, 2005, 7:33pm
Well it looks like I opened a big can of worms on this one.
Saturday night I came down with something and haven't been in the garage till last night. I was going to try draining the tank when I noticed the clear filter was full of orange gas Apparently this guy didn't seal the tank correctly and I have some rust somewhere
Now I need to know how to seal it the right way with the right stuff
Anyone??
Post by rigidpanman on Aug 11, 2005, 7:52pm
yea,go to your local yamaha dealer and get their tank treatment kit.it is bad stuff,i used it on my h***a.
Post by Sidecar on Aug 12, 2005, 3:25pm
You have perfectly described a coil starting to break down and go bad. I have had the exact same problems more than once.
Post by 03Roadking on Aug 12, 2005, 5:09pm
Sidecar
Interesting that you would say that, I have run this problem past many people and as it would happen it died in front of two of them. It would pop or sneeze through the carb and if I didn't quickly twist the throttle a couple of times it would just stop. Both of them said electrical short But maybe it's a two fold problem sometimes it runs out of gas and other times it's the coil Is there a way to test a coil or should it just be replaced
Post by Sidecar on Aug 12, 2005, 7:50pm
You need the proper equipment to test a coil to see if it will break down under load. Better off with a new one if you don't have access to a tester.
I read this whole thread and my opinion is that you don't have a gas problem.
I have not been able to get a replica style coil that would last 1 season. The last old style coil that I tried ran good for roughly 25 minutes before it started acting up. It did not matter what the ambient temperature was, how fast I was riding or how hard I was pushing it. I would lose a cylinder and/or the bike would backfire through the carb and/or miss really bad. ( I had vapor lock problems in the past also. ) I either pumped the throttle or held it at a very high rpm to keep the bike running. I had to wait to get the bike started again after it would die. After sitting on the side of the road for a time the bike would run perfect again until it started to screw up again.
I put a dyna coil and new wires on it. It starts better in any condition, has better throttle response, gets better fuel mileage and feels like I added horsepower to it. It now runs better than it ever did. No lie. It runs so much better, it's hard to believe.
My bike used to die sometimes at red lights and stop signs for no reason unless I pumped the throttle a few times while I was stopping. It has not stopped at all unless I turned the ignition off.
I think you need a new coil.
Good luck !!!!
Randy
Post by Sidecar on Aug 12, 2005, 8:28pm
I have never run into any type of problem that could have been fixed by a short fuel line other than switching from the main to reserve when you run out of fuel while riding down the road. My fuel line is 4 feet long, has a filter, and is covered with a black flexible heat shield. ( I'm not talking about that wire loom stuff. ) It blends in so well it's hard to see it.
Post by 03Roadking on Aug 12, 2005, 9:36pm
Sidecar
You say a Dyna coil is it 4 OHM? and what year? will it fit the old mounting place? I wish I would have read this just a little sooner but the fact is the parts house I buy from had a new coil and they owed me money from returns I made, so I just came back from picking it up
Standard 1965 4 OHM it was almost a push I mean it cost me 5.00 I'm going to put it on when I get home tonight
Let me know part # or year
Thanks
Post by Sidecar on Aug 12, 2005, 10:48pm
I'm at work right now and I can't remember what the coil rating is ??. I'm getting old.....
The coils I was refering to were vintage replica coils. Made in the USA & China ( I think ). None were H-D factory coils.
I put the dyna coil on a 48 FL and it required an additional bracket to fit the original mount on the pogo seat tube.
Hope that makes some sense.
I'm gettin' outta' here now cause it's cold beer time.
Good Luck !!!
Randy
Post by Mbskeam on Aug 13, 2005, 5:55am
hello,
for those that want to run the dyna coils,
if you take the stock coil and remove the bracket by drilling out the rivets, it will fit over the dyna coil mount . then put 1/4x20 bolts and nylocks on it to lock it down, then the stock syle mount will bolt right on to the frame.
mbskeam
Post by 63panhead on Aug 13, 2005, 11:28pm
03Roadking,
The stuff to seal your tank that rigidpanman mentioned is called Kreme. My other bike's tank is sealed with it. Works great.
Post by Cotten on Aug 14, 2005, 3:10am
I have a set of tanks with Kreme installed in the mid-'80's that have survived quite well!
BEWARE however, that formulations have changed......
Nothing stays the same.
At this time, the safest bet is to NOT seal tanks at all.
Unless you have a soldered pre-36 HD, or any pre-vertical Indian tank, why should you??
Post by 03Roadking on Aug 14, 2005, 7:08pm
Hello To All
I changed the coil and it didn't do anything, still runs the same. I am going back to the fuel theory I ordered a book on Sportsters in hopes of getting information on this Bendix carb, I need to find the bowl vent passage way and I need to find out how the adjustable main works I have a theory but I need to be sure "Screwing it in leans it out and vise versa" I did a 50 mile run yesterday it did not do it's run out of gas trick, but as I was sitting at a light it popped through the carb and died on two separate occasions I hate that because I can't trust it. I will stay after it until I figure it out
Cotten
These tanks are about 3 years old not collectors items by no means (unless you count rust as a collectors item) do you think it would be best to use the Yamaha (I know bad word) tank cleaner I spoke to two service managers at Y---- and they both said it would only neutralize the rust and clean out the tank but would no cause any problems with existing sealers
Post by 63panhead on Aug 15, 2005, 2:09am
I know the intake leak idea has been beaten to death, but I just went through the popping through the carb deal and occasional stall, same symptoms that you are describing. I listened to Mbskeam and Billy and looked at the intake. Replaced the seals and my pan could not run better. Hope you get it fixed soon.
Post by kell on Aug 15, 2005, 5:15am
This is going back a ways but I had a Bendix carb with a mystery problem on my '82 Sportster. I did find the problem eventually but it was not easy. I don't know if they're all the same but my Bendix had channels going through the carb's body casting for the circuits. It had a piece of debris in (I think it was) the mid-range circuit. But to clear the circuit out by blowing compressed air you have to press your finger on a certain hole in the carb (in the venturi as I remember) otherwise the air would just blow out that hole and not go through the whole circuit. I can't say from the symptoms you've described whether your carb has an obstruction, but it is certainly worth a try using the compressed air to blow out the channels in the carb. It only takes a tiny fleck of debris to clog one, the channels are very fine.
Post by 03Roadking on Aug 15, 2005, 6:22am
Kell and 63panhead
That is next Saturdays project I am pulling the carb while I clean out the tanks And while I'm there I will confirm the intake has no leaks although I just put seals and clamps in 70 miles ago anything could happen
Post by fourthgear on Aug 15, 2005, 1:43pm
03
Are you running stock type hyd.lifters? they could play a part in you poping and spiting at idle.
Post by 03Roadking on Aug 15, 2005, 4:53pm
Fourthgear
I am not sure I have not looked, The guy I bought it from said he had a lot of work done before he sold it and his wife had all the receipts I was hoping to get a clue what he did or had done when the receipts show up this week???
If they are NOT Hyd then they might need adjusting??
Post by fourthgear on Aug 16, 2005, 12:46am
03
Yes they could need adj. solids or hydr.. The older type hydr. sometimes will collapse @ lower oil flow ( idle ) and could give you problems , the solids when adj. correctly of course don't have that tendency , but when adj. wrong will give you fits trying to figure out whats wrong. I'm just shooting at stars , just giving ya something to check because you may have multiple causes for the same problem. I'm sure you'll find it, ya just have to eliminate some things to narrow it down. Ya really need to check that Bendix out for sure.
Post by Sidecar on Aug 16, 2005, 2:52pm
Sorry to hear that the coil replacement didn't do the trick for you. I feel your pain. I still don't trust my bike 100% but I'm workin' on that. My bike has actually set a record for making it home under it's own power 6 times in a row and this is the 3rd summer I've had it on the road. I almost sold it twice, smacked it with a B.F.H. once and on one occasion, almost set it one fire with a pack of matches. ( I would have lit it up, but some young ladies stopped to help me. I probably would have gotten arrested anyway. )
So I feel your pain, but keep messin' with it. It'll get straightened out for ya !!!!
Good luck
Randy
Post by 03Roadking on Aug 21, 2005, 7:19pm
Well, It's Sunday and I spent 12 hours on the pan and I hate to say it but I am right back where I started.
I took the right cap off the tank and it was clean as a whistle inside, the left did have some rust so I pulled it, that YAHA stuff works good ;D while I was letting it soak I pulled the carb and I took it down to the guy I buy parts from he said the only thing i could do was surface the manifold and carb, rebuild the carb and check for intake leaks So we surfaced the intake and carb and on the way home I picked up one of those buckets of carb cleaner I tore the carb down and put it in the bucket to soak while I replaced the intake manifold I tested the manifold for 20 Min's no leaks I put the carb back together finished cleaning the tank out and put them back on. It kept acting like it was running out of gas it would run for a few seconds then die I noticed the accelerator pump wasn't shooting any gas so I pulled the carb, apparently the is a right way and a wrong way to put a float spring in > it says to lay the long end of the spring up against the inside of the bowl as you place the bowl to the body BUT it doesn't say the end of the spring must be over the top not from under the float if it's under it will hold the float up and will not let fuel come in properly. So with that out of the way it fires up and I try to dial it in after I get it close I took off down the road and back I did this about 5 times, It finale started running good so I decided to head for my buddies house the third signal it popped out the carb and died. I am going to recheck the timing and ride it about 50 mile today and do a plug check after it cools down just to see if it tells me anything
Post by Panhead on Aug 21, 2005, 8:39pm
Can you borrow a carburettor from a friend an replace yours? Then you'll know soon enough if it the carburettor or something else.
Post by kell on Aug 22, 2005, 12:03am
What Panhead said.
And if you really want to clean that carb out you need to shoot compressed air into the circuits.
Post by 03Roadking on Aug 22, 2005, 5:14am
I never made the 50 I got a mile down the road and it started popping like it was running out of gas. As I was sitting there I thought "Stick a fork in me and flip me over I'M DONE" I have put four kits in this carb Another one today I soaked that carb for an hour blew out every hole I could see, Put it back together with 250 power glasses checked and re-checked everything. I have little to no adjustment with this carb the air seems to come in OK but that adjustable main I can screw it almost all the way in (about one half turn before bottom) then i can unscrew it until it pops out and it doesn't change a thing until it pops out then it dies I get it running good at a nice idle then touch the throllte and POP
You guys were reading my mind I need another carb even if its just to borrow one for a few days I think what I'm going to do is see if I can cut a deal with the old guy I buy parts from
Post by kell on Aug 23, 2005, 4:03am
I just went back over this thread and I don't think anybody mentioned the condenser.
Post by fourthgear on Aug 23, 2005, 3:21pm
Usually an electric or electronic component fails it just fails , but a intermittent short or loose wire , dirty connection etc. can cause some real fun .
Post by 03Roadking on Aug 23, 2005, 5:34pm
Kell and Fouthgear
I will check the elec. But the problem is the fuel bowl acts strange sometime it fills up and some times it doesn't I found the vent and it is clean and clear it all goes back to the carb with the fuel flowing and the engine at 800 RPM I have no adjustment on the main as I said I can screw it all the way in and nothing or all the way out and the only change is when it pops out the bike dies if it was an intake leak wouldn't there still be adjustment to the main but none to the air?
Post by fourthgear on Aug 23, 2005, 9:16pm
03
As Panhead has said try another carb. , borrow one from some one who is down for repairs or from a shop just to see what is going on with a diff. one on there . That will eliminate the carb or send you in another direction if it still does it .
Post by 03Roadking on Aug 26, 2005, 6:04am
OK
Well I borrowed a Keihin Carb from the parts guy We struck a deal He would loan me the carb, I would buy a rebuild kit from him and I would either hand him a rebuilt carb back or buy it from him
It did the same damn thing > So I thought I would go back to basics I watched the intake push rod close on the front head then watched thou the timing hole and lined it up where it belongs checked the timing and it was right on. I kicked it over and it fires right up at an idle but as soon as you touch the throttle pow right out the carb some really nice flames. I called a buddy who I have known for years he built his first flathead six when he was twelve I told him what was happening he said why don't you just do what we always did in the past set the idle at 900 and turn the distributor tell it runs good then drop the idle back down and ride it. I kicked it to life and turned the distributor about 4 degrees counter clock wise it started to run the idle up to about 1200 past that and it started to miss I backed it up a little and locked it down and dropped the idle and it ran really great ;D not a pop or miss I took it down the street for about five miles and back I did a lot of stop and start just to give it a chance to pop but nothing happened. it didn't hold mid range very well but I hadn't adjusted the carb very much.
Now here comes the trouble :-/ the second time I took it out it started to miss bad like it was running out of gas lucky for me I live at the bottom of a hill I pulled in the clutch and rolled home It didn't die as long as I didn't touch the gas it would stay at an idle when I touched the gas it popped and died I started it up and loosened the distributor and turned it about three degrees counter clock wise again and it started to run better I think it's the timer this is an old aftermarket timer If you look under "Panhead Modified" the thread that says "Has anybody seen a dist like this before" there is a picture of it I posted. The lobe is a lot larger than any other timer I have seen I don't know if it is the dwell or something coming loose in the timer itself I have an opportunity to buy a timer brand new with automatic advance for 75.00 what do you guys think ???
Post by fourthgear on Aug 26, 2005, 1:15pm
03roadking
You may have eliminated the carb but not the entire fuel system. Is it possible you are being partly plugged at the pet cock valve inlet ? Do you have a sealant in the tanks? Do you already have a auto advance Distributor ? Do you have valve seat inserts in your heads? Did you change points and condenser ( kell may have something there , you never take anything for granted ) It seems to me your trouble is when the motor warms up . I know this is frustrating but stay with it . It is a process of elimination now and we are not there to do our trouble shooting , its all about you and a little detective work . I'm sure you get some more things to check from others here. Were with ya 03!
Post by PanPal on Aug 26, 2005, 5:54pm
I didn't go back and read all these pages, but I had similar problems which I over diagnosed. New plugs resolved the problem.
Re: Having Fuel Problems
Post by RussW on Aug 27, 2005, 5:20am
I looked at the pic of your distributor in the Pan Modified section,since it is held in place with a hold-down clamp, I assume it is auto advance. If the advance mechanism is worn, springs are shot, etc. it could make timing very unpredictable by not advancing/retarding when it should. I have heard that the advance mechanisms in a lot of the aftermarket auto-advance units are pretty lousy.
Re: Having Fuel Problems
Post by 03Roadking on Aug 27, 2005, 5:39am
Fourthgear
I have not Changed points or condenser Plugs I have changed out four times
The tank is sealed and I have a auto advance dist. in place but I don't trust it I posted a pic of it a couple of months back and even Cotten and Billy said they have never seen one like it
as far as what is in the engine ??? ??? ??? I was told it had a mild cam and it had about 500 miles on a rebuild
I had it running in the driveway this evening it was on the lift with the fan blowing on it. I was going to adjust the carb, as it was at an idle I twisted the throttle and it went blaaaah I let up and it idled, hit it again and blaah then it just died I sat there for 20 Min's just staring at it, I let it down from the left and was going to start it again when I looked at the fuel filter and it was empty, I took a pair of pliers and Begin squeezing the fuel line under the filter gas started to fill the filter in about two seconds it was full > I am going to pull the petcock out tomorrow but last week I had the pit-cock all apart because I cleaned out the tanks and the filter inside the tank I also fixed the reserve on the pit-cock it seems someone split the pipe that sticks up from the pit cock so I had no reserve. Now here's a question do you think someone did that to get more gas flow ??? I think I am gong to pull that pipe and try it without just to see any and all suggestions are welcome
Post by Mbskeam on Aug 27, 2005, 7:31am
hello,
is your filter resting on a cyl?
in the past if I let my glass filter lay on cyl. it would vapor lock. especially when I did the rebuild ,for the first few hundred miles this was a real pain.
after I found out what was the problem, I used zip tyes to pull the glass filter up tight to the intake manifold, so as to not touch the cyl. since then no problem.
if you can get it to do this again and find that it goes dry, pull the gas cap and see what happens.or your float is sticking, tap on the side of the bowl.
mbskeam
Post by Billy on Aug 27, 2005, 7:46am
03-
I did NOT read the preceding 4 pages, however if you are using 2 gas filters, that is too much for a good gravity feed. IMO
Either remove the screen in the tank(petcock), & U can visually see the in-line one, & what's exactly happening.
PS: run it on "reserve" & see if it makes a difference.
Post by 03Roadking on Aug 29, 2005, 8:31pm
Well,
I think the fuel problem is under control to many filters and a sluggish pit-cock I replaced the pit cock and pulled one of the filters but to be sure I need to replace the timer I took it to a shop I go to and they said in there opinion the timer was my problem (They have never seen one like it) Now the only thing I don't get is I have several people telling me two different stories on how to replace the timer. This is an after market auto advance new old stock Two bolt hold down
I am not sure how to line it up, there are no marks on the unit and the two shops I talked to said to line up the timing mark in the MIDDLE of the hole (because this is an auto advance) and when I set the timer in to twist it back about half way, slide it down in and then turn the advance as far as it will go and the static light should go on. If not pull it back up and turn it one tooth back or forward until it comes in. I thought that the line in the timing hole should just be coming into view and then by twisting the advance the light should come on Which way should it be?
Post by fourthgear on Aug 31, 2005, 2:52pm
03
Glad you got the fuel problem straightened out . If you have a tech. manual and look at the photos of the CB , it shows that the front lobe of the point cam is facing almost directly at you , looking at it from the gear case side of course, if you have the front timing mark in the timing hole. If you have the two hole flange to bolt the circuit breaker down you will have to have adj. both ways to adj. the timing . I'm not familiar with this type of auto adv. unit and not sure how you secure it when timed. When you get the point cam lobe pointing some what in your direction , manually advance the advancing mech. , thats when you will turn the adj. part of the circuit breaker to light the static timing light. Tighten down the CB and then check your timing by just manually advancing the advancing mech. to see if your Right on , it should light the timing light if nothing has been moved , if so re adj. same Way. I have found that if you just get the light to light is best for adj. Good luck
Post by 03Roadking on Aug 31, 2005, 5:12pm
Fourthgear
That fuel prob. almost kicked my now the timer, I do have three books that I can reference but I think I am confusing myself because the engine is a 62 and this timer is a 65
do I follow the set up and timing for the 65 auto advance IE timing line in the middle of the hole?
I tried putting the timer in last night and what I found was the points line up with the front lobe at about two o:clock (front cyl lobe on timer points to front cyl.) (looking down on the timer) that is with the timing mark in the center of the hole. Will this work?
Also I noticed before I put the new timer in I could twist the gear on the bottom, flick it fast and the auto advance would swing out, the one I took out was very tight and there was no flicking it I tried to make the auto advance work by hand and it didn't even turn much. The auto advance should spring open easy right?
Post by fourthgear on Aug 31, 2005, 6:17pm
03
Well you can put the timer in any where and line up the points to match , but thats not they way the books set it up. I would set it up as a 65 , cause thats what is is . If you look closely at the book , I don't have one here ,but the front lobe on the point cam , they are all pointing more like five o clock , looking down from above and you should pull the timer and rotate it till you get that position with the point cam lobe . The line I think you are referring to is in front of , on the out side of the timer . If you look at the photos in the book it lines up very close to the front cyl. cam lobe of the point cam. This all from memory so if I'm a little off mark here its just age and no book in front of me. This is a single point system ?
Post by 47knuck on Sept 1, 2005, 2:15am
03Roadking: Loose the Viton tiped needle. It is swelling in the gas and that is blocking the flow past the seat. When you take it out and it dries up it will shrink back down and look just fine. Cotten pointed out that the new gas formula or some change in the viton is causing this in Linkerts as well. I don't think it matters what brand gas you use cause the formula keeps changing with all the regulators working to fix "emissons" and with the present free for all in oil I don't think they, the regulators, give a damn about any old motocycle problems. Ride happy and replace the needle.
Post by 03Roadking on Sept 1, 2005, 5:31am
Fourthgear
I think I figured it out, On this timer it has a slotted plate so I lined up the timing mark in the center of the hole and kept picking up the timer and moving it a tooth until the front cyl lobe was just before it touched the points tab then I brought it in by turning the plate a little and finale when I twisted the advance to full the light just came on, kicked it twice once with the key off and once with it on and it fired right up ;D didn't get to ride it yet because I pulled the push rod tubes to make it easier to get the timer in and I must have not got it seated right oil every where >
47Knuck
Do you know where I can get needles without the viton tip For Bendix or Keihin I have called and emailed a lot of people and all they say is "We got kits" and when I ask if they are all steel needles they say no they don't make them any more.
Post by fourthgear on Sept 1, 2005, 1:08pm
03
There is light at the end of the tunnel after all.
Post by RideforHIM on Sept 1, 2005, 5:14pm
I ran into the same thing with an in-line filter. DO NOT run both a petcock screen and an inline filter. Gravity feed isn't enough to flow well through both. You will find that it runs OK with a completely full tank, which creates more gravity fuel pressure than a not-full tank. I threw out the in-line filter and it runs great now.
Post by 03Roadking on Sept 1, 2005, 5:30pm
You know how it is when you are really enthused about a new project and you start to work on it and Well, something goes wrong so you say that's OK I can take care of that. Then something else goes wrong so you say Ah that's not a problem I can fix that, then another thing pops up and you say it's a learning experience you can handle it.
Well I'm at the point with this timer business that I want to beat the crap out of them with a hammer I found out that the reason the front push rod tube is leaking is because the new timer I put in has a cap that is so big it pushed the push rod tube off center I have stared at this for an hour and the only thing I can see is beat the side of the lid in or try and find another cap that will fit I guess my only question is to myself "how the hell do you keep finding these odd and off the wall timers"
Post by fourthgear on Sept 1, 2005, 8:06pm
03
Is this the first time it leaked ? You have been test riding quit a bit and this is the first time you noticed it leaking ?I don't know of any timers that get in the way of the push rod tubes, some are close but not touching. Post a photo if ya can.
Post by 03Roadking on Sept 2, 2005, 6:20am
Fourthgear
Yes this is the first time it leaked I reset the tube and went down the street I was sitting at a light and all of a sudden I'm engulfed in smoke it was running along the fins and onto the header pipe scared the crap out of me at first so I shut it off and reset the tube again and by the time I got to the top of the hill it started leaking again here are three pictures, the first picture notice the tube is right up against the cap
http://www.members.aol.com/Qlcfas/pictures/Timer1.jpg In the second picture I removed the top clip on the push rod tube and the bottom popped up in the position in the second picture http://www.members.aol.com/Qlcfas/pictures/Timer2.jpg
And the third picture is the inside of the timer just in-case someone wants to take a crack at telling me if its really for a panhead or not. http://www.members.aol.com/Qlcfas/pictures/Timer3.jpg
Post by kell on Sept 3, 2005, 1:25am
How about trimming some material off that cap at the bottom of it (instead of bashing the top). That way you will lower the profile. You probably have some headroom inside the breaker so that you could trim it down without having the inside of the cap hit the moving parts. Dremel is your friend. Or lathe if available.
Next we will want to know how your bike runs with the new breaker. If the new breaker fixes it, it will be interesting to see what happens if you switch out the condenser of the new breaker and use the condenser from the old one. I still think your problem could have been a bad condenser.
Post by 03Roadking on Sept 3, 2005, 4:42am
Kell
Yes, Dremel is my friend ;D I have worn out many of them thru the years if I can gain 1/16 or a little more it just might work Saturday is my day to go at it. And yes if what I have done fixes it I will go back and try the condenser just because I not only have to know why it works I always have to find out why it didn't ;D
Post by fourthgear on Sept 3, 2005, 1:59pm
03
Did you replace this timer in this process of figuring out your ign. problem? If so whats your old one look like? Looks like cap is kinda high or whole unit. If you have old timer , can you swap caps? My last auto adv. timer had the clamp and one bolt. Not familiar with the two bolt type. You did say after market timer ? If you were running with this timer and it didn't leak, why now?Try to seat push rod tube with new seals and with out timer cap and then replace timer cap. You may have damaged a seal when you popped the tube to check valve position. If they be cork , it does not take much for them to fail.
Post by 03Roadking on Sept 3, 2005, 5:16pm
Fourthgear
under "Panhead Modified" look at "Has anybody seen a dist. like this one" (second page) I posted pics months back of the the old timer no one had ever seen one like it I tried the old cap on the new unit it is the exact diameter there is no way of keeping it in place
Now the dumb question "Can you replace the push rod tube seals without lifting the heads or taking the rocker covers off." The reason I ask is this is a 62 in a 56 ridged frame I have 3/8 clearance on the front pan and 1/4 on the rear
Post by Mbskeam on Sept 3, 2005, 7:46pm
hello,
no, you dont have to pull the heads to get the pushrods out.
lift the covers and loosen the adj. it will be on the lifter or the push rod it self, there are many diff brands out there, so see what you got .
put eng for that cyl. at TDC, bottom out the adj. and the pushrod will swing out of the way.
you then can replace the seals, I have had the same Burna rubber ones for almost 15 years and that is undoing them to adj. my solids, they work very well and no leaks.
as for the timer, I am doing the swap meet next weekend, do you want me to keep an eye out for you?
mbskeam
Post by fourthgear on Sept 3, 2005, 9:59pm
03
It may be deceiving in the photos but the old one appears to be smaller in dia.and I see it is the clamp type hold down . Is the new timer a little taller?. .As mbskeam said about push rods , you will have to re adj. it of course after replacing seals. Make sure it is well seated by wiggling it a bit and then replace the cap on the timer. The seals mbskeam talked about may be more forgiving as far as keeping sealed with the timer resting on it . I do something with my cork seals I'm sure will get some people shaking there heads , I take Permatex rtv sealer and rub the seals (cork ) with my fingers so as the pores of the seal or gasket are covered and nothing more ( that means very very little , no gobs of any kind hanging ) and I let them hang from a nail or something for at least an hour before using them. I do not have gasket leaks at all . All surfaces are cleaned with acetone any oil will compromise the gasket .
Post by 03Roadking on Sept 4, 2005, 4:38am
First off that was the dumbest post I have every done I mean we are talking total rookie I must have done that 50 times when I was a kid with my first pan. I posted that message, walked out in the garage sat down in front of the timer and it hit me "can you replace the seals without removing the head" what a dope It's a good thing none of you know where I live the next thing ya know my house would get toilet papered or you guys would drive by laughing and pointing ;D
Any way Mbskeam I took the old timer apart re-bushed it checked the advance and put in a new set of points and condenser, dropped it in and it seems to work good But thank you for the offer (PS still need to send you the dough for the stand)
Fourthgear
Yes the outer diameter of the new timer is 1/8" larger and the cap is 3/8" taller I have put it on the shelf for now
I am back to the old problem I put the keihen on today went for a ride and as I was sitting at the light POP dead So I came back and put the Bendix on went for a ride and as I was sitting at the light POP dead I went to the Panhead shop and the guy came out and checked the timing, said it was good, adjusted the carb a little and said that was good. He wants me to bring it in and let him adjust the valves he thinks one of the intakes might be tight or a blown head gasket What do you guys think
Post by foot on Sept 4, 2005, 6:43am
throw the bendix in the trash, put on a cv & you will be amazed., at how sweet it is.
Post by Mbskeam on Sept 4, 2005, 6:50am
hello,
you got solids or hdy. lifters?.......bad hdy. lifter ?
how about a bad elect conection ,like from the switch to junction plate under the coil, to the timer it self.
if you have heat shrink on your wires they may look good but still be bad under the tube, try a direct wire from the batt to the coil and check the wire from the coil to the timer real good.
then ride around this way
or you have a short in your dist?
I dont think its a head gasket, but a sticky valve???you never know.
mbskeam
or you could just give the bike to me,and your problem is solved.........LOL
Post by Billy on Sept 4, 2005, 6:57am
A Blown head gasket will 'usually' give ya some symptoms. Loud air pumping out..
Check you valve adjustments & check your compression.
A shop, may find many things that were not wrong before U went there. Unless U know the place..
my 1.6 cents
Post by haggis on Sept 4, 2005, 2:14pm
03rking,
I have got the same auto advance breaker on my 50 el, had no touble with it.Haggis
Post by Mbskeam on Sept 4, 2005, 11:06pm
hello,
get a backpack and put a multi meter and some tools to pull plugs to do a compression check right there on the side of the road. and to check for a bad wire, wires...... if it dies out on you. I'm sure you will find the problem soon.
mbskeam
Post by 03Roadking on Sept 6, 2005, 12:12am
I left the pan home yesterday got on the roadking and put 225 mile on her, up to the high desert then up to the lake and then home, had to clear my head and it worked, theres nothing in there now ;D I did run into a whole lot of bikes one of them was running clear plastic tubing and I thought HEY why not just for a little while I know it's not fuel line but at least I can see the fuel
So this morning I put a piece of clear tubing from the pit cock to the carb I did route it around the back cylinder and held it in place with a zip tie so it couldn't touch anything hot. Next I did a cold compression test
89 Front 90 rear I kicked it 5 times each cylinder I fired it up and let it run the fuel line filled half way I had solid fuel from the carb half way back to the pit cock as it ran I could see the fuel running down the tube keeping it half full at all times but the engine did the same thing some times if I touched the throttle it would pop out the carb and try to die So now I know for sure there is fuel to the carb.
Next I pulled the plugs and did another compression test 100 front 105 rear five kicks each the only difference I noticed was the rear hit 105 on the third kick and the front took all 5 kicks The books just says to kick it till the gage doesn't move any more so I did it again kicked each cylinder 10 times each and the gage stopped at the same for each cylinder so what do you think ???
Post by RussW on Sept 6, 2005, 3:32am
Try this, it's quick and easy. As far as I know, you should not have any air pockets in your fuel lines. Fluids have restiction when trying to flow around an air bubble in a line. Also, if you do have an air pocket and it gets hot enough (expands), it can effectively shut off the gas flow. Run a piece of clear line straight from petcock to carb, right between the cylinders, no glass filter. Drain the fuel from the carb, and hook up the empty lline. When you open the petcock, you should get an unimpeded flow filling, first the fuel line, then the float bowl, bleeding all air out of the fuel system as it does. Fuel line should be full if gas. Then start the bike and see what happens. If it still runs crappy, sorry I wasted your time!
Post by haggis on Sept 6, 2005, 3:40am
03Roadking,
Went back to check my breaker today, my cap rests against the front exhaust pushrod cover,cant get a .002 feeler inbetween them, but it is not pushing against it.I can remove the cap pretty easy. Cant quite make out from your last pic, but do you have the gasket installed between breaker and case?mine is approx'
.050 thick. Maybe your's is too thick or too thin?
Thinking maybe your exhaust pushrod maybe getting held up or obstructed causing the front cylinder to barf out gas back thru your intake valve...long shot I know but.......that's my 1.4cents worth. Haggis
ps. your pushrods are straight right?
Post by fourthgear on Sept 6, 2005, 1:34pm
03
Did you say that the old problem came back when you went back to the old timer ? It could very well be a short or bad wire. As has been said , the popping could be in the valve train system some where ,a bent or sticking valve or bad lifter or that kien carb is notorious for acting like that popping and wheezing thats why S&S carbs became so popular. Did you take your compression check with the throttle wide open? you have not said if you have solids or Hydr. I have no Faith in the old type Hydr.lifters .
Post by 03Roadking on Sept 8, 2005, 5:00pm
I have not checked to see if I have hyd or solid yet I am waiting for the seals to come in I'm going to change them out. But I did do what was asked with the clear fuel line (ran a short piece from pit-cock to carb between Cly's) the fuel line did the same thing only filled 3/4 of the way. Also When I did both compression checks Hot and cold the throttle was wide open. I think 80% of this is carb related, Without touching the timer or the fuel line I pulled the Bendix and put the Keihin on, turned the fuel on, twisted the throttle twice, kicked it twice, turned on the key and one kick and she was at an idle. I let it warm up and then took it on a 10 mile start and stop it popped once at the first light but did not die. It ran like the carb was just tuned to it. We have bike night at a little pizza place tonight so I going to run it over there and back just to see if it's going to do anything. I can't believe the difference in the two carbs I went from popping and barely running to pretty damn good with two bolts ;D
Post by fourthgear on Sept 9, 2005, 1:00am
03
Let us know how she runs , I know I hope ya got her licked .
Post by Billy on Sept 9, 2005, 7:15am
03-
Long battle, I hope U are getting sorted out good..
Down the road, spoil yourself & put on a CV, ya won't look back... ;D
Post by 03Roadking on Sept 9, 2005, 5:56pm
Guys
I fired it up one kick, idles nice I run it down to bike night not one pop Of course I am in the right lane at every light just waiting to push it to the curb ;D But nothing, ran like a champ hung out for an hour or so, naturally I get ready to leave and some of the guys have to watch to Ole guy kick the bike so i know it's going to give me trouble, first kick it fires up and I look to see some disappointed faces (thought I was going to be there a while ;D) I get about a mile from home and it pops once then again and then again I kept it running, the light changed and I made it home. do you think it could be a valve sticking. The guy I got it from said he had the heads rebuilt but this is also the guy that fixed the oil pump by putting the wrong screw in the chain oiler Do you think it could be a valve that only hangs up once in while or am I going off in the wrong direction ???
Post by fourthgear on Sept 9, 2005, 6:53pm
03
You could very well have a valve train problem. Its to bad to make sure is to inspect them, off the motor , it is the only way for sure to see if they are to specs. I know ya don't want to here that . You need to check a few things first , valve adj. is one, weather its hyd. or solids , do you have unleaded valve inserts in the heads ? I would pull all your lifters if you have hyd. and clean & inspect them and readj. to specs. , the tech . manual has what to look for and how to adj. . You are going to change the push rod seals you said any way, good time to inspect that stuff. Can you tell what cyl is popping , which one had the funny comp. reading might give you a clue. Is it only when it has warmed up a bit that it pops? thats another clue. Does it only pop when idling or do you get it when is under power? another clue. Eliminate what ya can before pulling anything off the motor. I sure you'll hear more from others here .
Post by DJ on Sept 10, 2005, 10:51pm
Lifter adj.....very important. When mine starts running crappy, they are the first thing I check. If you are running solids, like I am.....get used to adjusting them often.
Post by Mbskeam on Sept 10, 2005, 11:19pm
hello,
aw come on it aint that bad doing the lifters.
but I like the smell of panhead oil on my fingers, it means fun is about to commence,
this is the time when I look over the bike to find any problems that might be at hand..
mbskeam
Post by DJ on Sept 13, 2005, 10:54pm
I never complain about simple maintenence now that all of the hard work is behind me. I'm constantly checking everything mentally. I'm the obsessive sort. Merely saying that valve adj. is one the first things I check when running shitty.
I'm also probably not the only one who carries a spring to keep the covers up while adjusting.
Post by 03Roadking on Sept 18, 2005, 5:17am
Hello All had to take last weekend off from the Pan my son's in Iraq and I am the Handyman of the house for my daughter-in law
I know two things for sure now, I have solid lifters ;D And three bent push rods i went to the ol panhead shop and he fixed me up with three straight ones I spent a few hours making sure I set them up correctly.
Kicked it once with the key off and once with the key on and away I went 27 miles and the only problem i had was not a pop but a suck sound it only did it to me twice and not at an idle but when i was coming up on a light and I was down shifting I pulled in the clutch and it made a quick sucking sound like if you suck air through your teeth (best analogy I can come up with) I went by the panhead shop and he said it might be the carb needs adjusted seeing how I just bolted it on or the valves should be checked again. Any comments ???
Post by fourthgear on Sept 19, 2005, 1:09pm
03
Three bent push rods ? They were probably adj. wrong from the last time they were adj. or head work was done . If you only heard that noise once it may be nothing . You can tell ,as you have seen and heard when solids are not right . New rods will take some time to break in and you will have to adj. them again after a few miles( 100 , 200 or so ). Good job, hope you get to ride instead of work on her now . enjoy.
Post by 03Roadking on Sept 19, 2005, 5:14pm
Hello
I re-adjusted the valves again Sunday morning I was on a tight schedule so I didn't have time to ride it much just about 15 miles funny thing I noticed since I adjusted the valves the clear temporary fuel line is completely full now, also it fires up one kick cold but if I don't let it set for at least 15 Min's it won't start. I tried just kicking it without touching the throttle and that didn't work and I tried just cracking the throttle a little and then I tried like I would cold start This is on three separate times not all at once I figured I would experiment so I would ride it for 3 to 4 miles then pull into some place let it set for a few Min's then try and start it. When it didn't start I would pull out a rag and start cleaning something the wheel the front end ETC after about 15 to 20 Min's of cleaning I would kick it without touching the throttle and it would fire right up and I went on for another few miles then I would repeat the procedure. I think she just likes being cleaned ;D you know how they are ;D
but for the most part I am really pleased with the way it runs and idles I just need to figure out how to stop for gas without waiting for 15 to 20 Min's
Post by fourthgear on Sept 19, 2005, 7:02pm
03
You could be a little tight on them valve adj. and you may not believe this but , after having bent push rods , your motor may not like the timing setting it has now and or carb setting. You may have to play with it a bit.There is another thread in panhead that some one is having a hard time starting hot , check it out .
Post by 03Roadking on Sept 20, 2005, 5:15am
Thanks Fourthgear
I will check it out, I went for another ride today about 30 miles this time I defied it to quit I pulled up to every light in the left lane I sat in left hand turn lanes I was in heavy traffic and highway traffic Not one pop, suck, ping or anything else other than regular engine and transmission sounds I went around side streets looking for stop signs she did great ;D
I did experiment with an idea some of you might say it was wrong but as I turned the corner to the house I shut off the gas rolled up in the driveway and waited until the engine idle started to rise then shut it off waited two Min's turned the gas on and one kick and it fired up so I went around the block and as I turned the corner I shut off the gas waited about 20 seconds and as soon as the idle came up I turned the key off waited two Min's turned the gas on turned the key and kicked it one time and it fired right up My theory is its a little over carburetor so as I pull up in the driveway when I turn the key off the engine turns over a few more times with the key off so it is still drawing fuel into the cylinders if I don't wait and try and start it I really have no where to go if you know what I mean I can't give it gas because it already has to much in the cylinders so I either kick it till the extra fuel is aired out from the cylinders or just wait is this crazy talk or what ???
Continued here:
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