Carburetor and Fuel System
Title: 1963
FLH plug fouling
Post by PanPal on Jun 28, 2005, 7:32pm
Sounds like she needs the carb leaned out.
Post by obierider on Jun 30, 2005, 1:40pm
Further to my post: I am considering switching the main jet from the #19 (standard) to a #18 or a #17 in an effort to lean out the carb. Any recommendations on this approach?
Post by 03Roadking on Jun 30, 2005, 3:43pm
Hello
I have not belonged to this site for very long but I know the expert's here will tell you part of your answer is in your statement (manifold NOT pressure tested) I had the same problem it took a new set of Clamps and O-rings and you must must pressure test it. Without being sure the manifold is sealed, everything you do is a waste of time. Your plugs will read wrong, your carb setting will only last as long as the manifold leak stays the same. If it leaks a little more you will have to re-adjust it if it leaks a little less you have to adjust it, not to mention the damage you can cause if it starts running real lean while your out on the road.
Someone sells a pressure testing kit for your carb here on the site and Cotten has written procedure about it here and on other site's if you do a search here you will find it
Good luck
Post by fourthgear on Jun 30, 2005, 7:48pm
03roadking is right on , check for the EVIL MANIFOLD LEAK as they say here and go from there. Cotten should have something to say about the Linkert, he knows them for sure .
Post by Cotten on Jul 1, 2005, 12:08pm
The leaktesting procedure is at http://virtualindian.org/11techleaktest.html
Mbskeam offers a complete kit at http://www.geocities.com/mbskeam/index3.html
After that variable is eliminated, beware of floats that don't: http://www.hydra-glide.com/coppermine//displayimage.php?pos=-413
After that has been cured, beware of resistor plugs or wires.
Post by obierider on Jul 1, 2005, 1:16pm
Thanks for all the helpful suggestions. Following the advice, I leak checked the intake manifold and no leaks were found. I have tried two brass floats so far, the first one became gas-fillled and sank, what a surprise! I have a second, allegedly superior brass float from another source. I'm ready to try another solution.
Cotton, can you give me a source? I understand you sell them. Please provide details.
Post by Cotten on Jul 2, 2005, 1:35am
One is on the way, ObieRider...
For the rest of the readers: there are two brass floats on the market that I know of...
in Walneck's some are offered at $5.87 each...
but the very finely made ones from India with very little solder that weigh ~3 times and original, yet are prone to leakage and corrosion,...
and the USA made ones look sloppy, weigh four times as much as originals, rarely (if ever) leak, but are even more marginal because of their bodacious mass and volume.
Neither can be set anywhere near book spec and still function properly. When the fuel formulations turned digestive, brass seemed to be the only alternative.
I resorted to the same material that most all automobile manufacturers spec for gastank sending units, and machine them individually so they would service at a 1/4" setting. This makes them expensive, but the last float you should ever require.
Post by 65flh5326 on Jul 6, 2005, 5:19am
I had a simular problem with my 65, found that a main jet drilled to .078" solve the problem.
Don
Post by obierider on Aug 2, 2005, 1:30pm
As a folllow-up, first thanks for all the helpful suggestions. I believe I have the problem fixed! The key steps (I think) were: 1) I installed one of Cotton's foam floats and set float height to manual setting (1/4 inch), 2) I pressure tested the intake manifold, and 3) I went to a #17 jet (rather than the #19 specified for the bike). She runs beatifully with quick starts, smooth running and, thankfully, no plug fouling!
