Carburetor and Fuel System
Title: M35TP
Linkert float
| Been surfing, browsing and searching for info on what
type of float to get for my linkert. Looks like the options
are cork, brass, or foam. -- any others? All have pros and cons from what I can find. Any input as to which float works best? Thanks Post by suicideshovel65 on Feb 28, 2005, 8:00am I hear great things about Cotten's lightweight floats for the Linkerts, though I know nothing about them as I run an SU myself. Contact him through this site, or http://virtualindian.org/5deallib.htm, or perhaps he'll chip in and comment himself. Cheers, Simon Post by Cotten on Feb 28, 2005, 1:26pm There are three kinds of foam floats: Original "Armstrong" floats were molded black ones used by the factory from some time in the mid-50s on. The weighed three grams and worked great, until the nature of fuels changed. Now they swell until they hit the side of the bowl. Modern cream-colored floats are usually labelled "not for use with oxygenated fuels". They are of the proper buoyancy, but even non-oxygenated fuels can turn them into a dumpling in minutes. My Durable floats are machined to order from a closed-cell ultralight black foam that is absolutely solvent-proof. It even resists methylene chloride paint stripper, and drilling holes in it cannot make it leak or log. Unfortunately, the corporation that owns the proprietory rights to the exclusive raw material packed up their entire US operation last summer, and put it on a slow boat to China. Even when production resumes, it may not be made available in a machineable form. I purchased the remaining Free World supply of raw stock, but soon may have to retain my remaining supply to support my own specialized carburetor services. Please post me direct at liberty@npoint.net for availability and pricing. ....Cotten Post by 51Hog on Mar 1, 2005, 1:30am Hey Cotten---- I probably will regret it, but I did the impulse thing and bought a complete carb kit locally which had a brass float in it. I am thinking that with the amount of riding that I will be able to do in our three months of summer, the brass float should last for a while. I think that I will be lucky to put on 2-3000 miles tops, in one summer. Too many other things going on in a very short three months. 32ft boat 6 hours from home---4x4 for hunting moose etc... Thanks please do send pricing on your floats. Post by Cotten on Mar 1, 2005, 2:47am First suggestion: Place the brass float in hot water and look for bubbles that would indicate a leak. Second: Weigh the float. If it weighs 9 grams, or three times what it should, set it at .375"+ instead of the book spec of 1/4", and hope for the best. If it weighs 12 g, as most Kokesh brasses do, then set it from a mimimum of .400" to a full 7/16". Only tedious trial and error will determine the perfect setting of a boatanchor float. Becareful not to tweak the manifold loose when removing and replacing the bowl over and over and over. This deep setting not only reduces the opening of the valve to a minmum, the reserve volume is greatly reduced by both the low setting and the increased volume of the brass, compared to original corks. In other words, when you throw the throttle open hard, the main nozzle trough (which performs as an "accellerator pump") has little or no supply in the bowl to refill it quickly. The mass of the heavy float makes it operate sluggishly. The cycling of the float becomes slower, thus periods of lean and fat become exaggerated. Gas economy suffers, as well as general performance. Face it, brass floats don't:  Post by 51Hog on Mar 1, 2005, 3:45am Great pic. Unfortunately, the float is already installed so I can't weigh it. I did set it at about .375 though. Hopefully, I won't have probems, but if I do, I don't have a problem hearing an "I told ya so" or two... Thank you for the advice--I am not ignoring it, just excited to hear her run. Post by panfreak on Mar 3, 2005, 11:59pm 51HOG, Here's my .25c I would jump at the chance to get a foam float from Cotten while he still has a few left, you will thank me later. I too had a brass float, and struggled with all the symptoms Cotten outlined. The fact that you won't put on many miles won't matter, because it'll run the shits right from the get go. At least that was my experience. I am amazed what a difference the durable foam float made! Post by 51Hog on Mar 4, 2005, 12:22am Email sent to Cotten---- Anyone know if the float lever should have any slop on the hinge pin? It looks like the pin lets the float move fore and aft enough to bind the needle and not let it seat properly. Anyone know where to get a new lever? (Float support.) Post by 62panheaddan on May 6, 2005, 12:14am I put a brass one in about 7 years ago and it leaked and sunk after about 2 days. I dam near burned my bike to the ground with the gas pouring out of my carb all over my hot pipes. I had to ride home turning the petcock off and on all the way. I took it back and they gave me another one. I put it under a rock in a 5 gallon bucket of water for a month to check for leaks. It has been fine ever since. I did compensate for the heaver float in the setting. Post by Tracy on May 6, 2005, 2:51pm I too replaced my boatanchor float withe one of Cottens floats and have no issues. If I ever get rid of my 49, the brass float goes back in and this float comes out for a future linkert/bike. If comforting to know the carb is set up right, start easy cold or hot. It took a while to figure out the intake leaks, float achor and points gap but now is just prime and go. Now all I have to do is focus on getting my sidecar up. Need a TUB bad, anyone got one? Tracy |
