Carburetor and Fuel System
Title: CV
questions
Post by caschnd1 on Aug 24, 2006, 2:51pm
Fourthgear,
The CV carb should pull easily out of the stock manifold. It's only held in by a rubber seal so it's comes out easily.
I've only seen the press-on adapters available on eBay.
Without more detail about the manifold you are looking at in the J&P catalog, I don't know if this will work. I use a S&S manifold with the press-on adapter.
-Craig
Post by gearbox on Aug 24, 2006, 3:43pm
caschnd1
There are two and am not sure which one to use , part # 400-238 says its for S&S E & B carbs with o-ring and part # 400338 which just says 55-65 Panhead manifold , not sure which is which or which is the one in the photo. They are on page 12 of my JP vintage cat.
Post by gearbox on Aug 24, 2006, 4:15pm
And just where is that adapter on E confuse Bay?
Post by caschnd1 on Aug 24, 2006, 5:35pm
The press-on adapter on eBay is designed to make the CV carb bolt up to the same manifold as a S&S E carb. I'd get the manifold that is desigened for the S&S E. Go to eBay and search for... Shovelhead CV
-Craig
Post by gearbox on Aug 24, 2006, 7:03pm
Found the adapter and ordered one. Now the manifold,so I need the S&S manifold , I will order one and an insulator block for it. I see I can convert a screaming eagle backing plate , which is not plastic to use. Has any one used the Linkert backing plate and cover? Mine is an after market set up any way so altering it would be of no consequence to me.
One more question , I have five gal. tanks , do I need more spacing to clear them?
Post by caschnd1 on Aug 24, 2006, 11:30pm
Fourthgear,
I run a backing plate similar to the SE you are talking about. Very simple thing.
Make sure you build a support to run from the backing plate down to the motor case bolt between the jugs. You have to support the carb well or you'll have intake leaks galore. There are some other ways to build support brackets then what I just described. I just haven't tried them.
Also notice that the air cleaner doesn't stick up above the top of the carb. I don't have the same tanks you have (mine is a 2.2gal peanut) but I don't think you'll have any clearance issues.
-Craig
Post by gearbox on Aug 25, 2006, 12:20pm
caschnd1
That looks good. Are there any ports in the carb pertaining to the backing plate that I have to make sure are open to inside of air cleaner? I know there is a post I'm going to have to look up on jetting and I know it was recent. I'm going to order the S&S manifold today, I was going to wait till the end of the season to change the carb , but I kinda want to check it out sooner since I can ride year round down here (except during Hurricanes of course).
Post by caschnd1 on Aug 25, 2006, 3:17pm
Fourthgear,
If you are using a modified SE backing plate, it should already work with the CV carb (as long as it's not a backing plate for a fuel injected bike). If you are making your own backing plate, then I'd try to get my hands on a backing plate from a new bike with a CV and use it as a pattern to cut the opening for this backing plate. Or for that matter, go get the gasket that goes between the carb and the backing plate and use that as a template.
-Craig
Post by gearbox on Aug 25, 2006, 7:28pm
caschnd1
I was thinking about the after market backing plate and cover from the linkert, can it be modified or is that a total waste of time? Its the type with the screw dead center of the cover or should I get a SE and go from there. I have the stock org. cover and backing plate for the CV and of course I'm not going to use it ,but do have all the patterns I need to set some thing else up.
Post by caschnd1 on Aug 25, 2006, 9:02pm
I've never looked at modifying an old linker backing plate. When I took off my linkert, I left the air cleaner cover and backing plate and left them with the carb. That way if I go back I have all the pieces. H-D makes a nice "retro" air cleaner cover with the one screw in the middle that will work with after market backing plates. Looks closer to original then a stock Evo air cleaner cover.
-Craig
Post by russw on Aug 26, 2006, 1:50am
When I did my CV, I wanted to use the SE plate/element and found that you can purchase these items seperate from the dealer. I had him look up SE kit #29008-90A to fit '90-'92 Evos. This has a backing plate that needs only for you to fill in three holes with some JB weld to be sealed.
Once he found that kit, he could get the part numbers for the components. I was able to buy just the backing plate, carb/plate spacer, radiused ring to hold it all to the carb, gaskets, even grabbed the three screws while I was there. The SE air cleaner is a K&N unit, was about the same price as a K&N from anyone else, fit right on with no mods, so I got that too. Maybe could have saved a few bucks scrounging around, but this was quick, went right together, and wasn't outrageously priced.
For a cover, you do have lots of choices. Once I made the center stud/backing plate brace and went with the "retro" round cover, came out pretty good.
Post by billy on Aug 26, 2006, 8:16am
I've always been leary of plugging the holes w/JB alone.
I counter-sink the holes, then add screws, & nuts on the outside.
RED-Loc-tited Grind down anything that ain't flush on the inside..
peace of mind for me, from the thought of the motor 'inhaling a chunk of JB'
Post by gearbox on Aug 28, 2006, 1:31pm
I have seen that retro cover and its about fifty bucks , looks good RussW. I was at one time thinking about putting it on my linkert. Its a eight inch dia I believe insted of seven. It looks like the best way to set this CV up is using a SE backing plate and that retro cove. Thanks all for info, I will pick your brains when I get around to tuning it.
Post by gearbox on Aug 28, 2006, 2:38pm
caschnd1
I see that you have jet sizes also with that link , do you know what comes in a stock carb or should I look and any way I can get a schematic on the CV or do I have to buy a manual? What is the name of the CV any way (CV 40? )Who makes it Kiehn?( or how ever its spelled )As you can see I don't know squat about it.
Post by russw on Aug 29, 2006, 1:20am
Check here...lots of info
http://nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm
Post by dirtpandan58 on Aug 29, 2006, 4:46am
try google...cv carb tuning
Post by caschnd1 on Aug 29, 2006, 5:01am
Fourthgear,
I'm pretty conservative when it comes to modifying the CV carb. I don't like drilling the slides and a lot of the other mods that are popular (cutting the slide spring, etc.). I think you can do really well with a stock CV40 on a Panhead as long as it's jetted correctly. I also like the N86E needle set at stock height (no washers to lift it up above stock).
I'd recommend just starting out with the correct jetting for your setup and then tweak if you feel it's necessary. Remember that if you start oversizing holes in the carb body or slide it can be difficult to go back.
The Keihin CV40 is a pretty simple carb though. Be careful when working with the slide and diaphram. You don't want to pinch the diaphram or tear it when assembling the carb.
The main jet is #99101-393-XXX and the slow jet is #N424-25B-XXX (the XXX selects the jet size). I like Rage Performance because they sell the Keihin brand jets, not cheap knockoffs. Dependable quality but you'll pay a couple $ more per jet.
The jets the came stock with your carb will depend on what model bike it came on. The CV40 was used on Sportster, Evos, and TC88 engines. So the jetting varies quite a bit. If you remove the bowl you can read the main jet pretty easy. You'll probably need to remove the slow jet to read it's size since it's down inside the carb body and very hard to see.
-Craig
Post by gearbox on Aug 29, 2006, 12:16pm
Thanks for all the info , theres enough to keep me busy with the carb for a while. I do not plan on altering it , except for changing jets as needed. I assume the port on the manifold side of carb. next to the throttle cable attachments is for the vacuum switch and needs to be plugged. This carb. is from a 2002 night train and has very few miles. Thanks all , I will keep this sight informed after I get all the parts to in stall the carb..
Post by gearbox on Aug 30, 2006, 12:44pm
I see I have a lot to digest as far as info on the CV , good stuff. The HD dealer in St.Augustine was going to give me a stock backing plate , nice gesture ,but the big ugly black plastic was not destined to be on a Panhead , so I bought the SE backing plate , stand off bolts and that retro air cleaner cover ( total $ 98.00 out the door ) I am going to make a plate to attach the cover on today and am going to use my K&N filter I have for the linkert. I set it up last night and it should work out ok. When I get all the parts to do this change over I will post photos of the process for others to reference , I got the adapter in the mail yesterday and all I need is the manifold and new throttle cable.
Post by ckndnr on Aug 31, 2006, 5:14am
I think I have a S&S manifold if you need one....cheap!
Post by billy on Aug 31, 2006, 5:18am
fourthgear -
YES plug the port w/ good quality rubber cap.
agreed 'stock' blk backing plate is butt ugly & not appropriate for a Pan or any oldie. I throw them away.. so does HD..
Keep us posted, always like to see new ideas !!!!! ;D
Post by gearbox on Aug 31, 2006, 12:50pm
Ckndnr
I always seem to be a day and dollar short , I ordered one yesterday, damn!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I fabricated ( I had help from my two buddy's at work )the filter cover bracket and painted it yesterday and it worked out to just about perfection. I took photos and will post them when done with installing carb. The K&N filter I used with the Linkert worked out and yes I'm cheep , I couldn't see buying another filter when I had a perfectly good one already.
Post by gearbox on Sept 8, 2006, 3:10pm
I got the new manifold from JP cycles yesterday and found it would not fit between the heads , (Its not a S&S , I wish I would have picked up the one from you ckndnr ) The distance between lips on my Colony manifold is 2.9 " and the one from JPs is 3.0 , Thats 1/10 of an inch diff.. The Colony one worked fine and had a gap between the lips ( o-ring lip ) of course on each side between head spigot lip and manifold lip. Its hard to hold the manifold up steadily enough to get a good measurement, I would say about an 1/8 of an inch. gap on both sides , like I said, just a guess. I have the new manifold at a machine shop to get it down enough to use it and called JP's tech. and told them the problem and he said " you know you have to have the heads loose to fit the manifold correctly " DA ! I told him that I shouldn't have to remove the heads to replace the manifold and it was aliened when I assembled the motor with the Colony manifold and he should check his stock to see if any others are that wide. He thanked me and said he will check the others.
Its just a minor set back and I will put the carb on tonight one way or another. Just wanted to get this out for the need to know info ,BUY THE S&S MANIFOLD , I guess buying cheaper is not always the way to go , live and learn and hope this helps the next guy.
Post by ckndnr on Sept 9, 2006, 12:06am
If you still need it....cost of shipping and it is yours
Post by gearbox on Sept 11, 2006, 12:51pm
Got the carb on yesterday and all I have to say is WOW ! She started first kick after priming ,but took a while to stay running until I got the idle mixture adj.. Took her for a test ride and she stumbles a little at slow speed , but man its a diff. motor , so I will get jets today for it and see how she adj. to them. I had to cut a larger slot in the top of the air cleaner because it was too big to fit under my five gal. tanks , tucks in quit nicely now.I took photos of the whole process if any one wants me to post them I will.
I also did an experiment with starting her , after shutting her off for two hours , I just wanted to see if she would start with out any priming or enricher and yep , first kick got her going , I also did it again another two hours later with same results, now thats not bad , she starts first kick every time. The enricher is nice too ,when I first started her , I used the enricher to keep a good idle until she warmed enough to set the idle mixture correctly.
The way the fuel line goes now ( I have later mod. tanks, re-pop? ) no dipping , it goes straight to the carb. and down to the fuel inlet and short run too.
Post by kuda on Sept 11, 2006, 1:25pm
I for one would love to see those pictures. Just finished having the adapter pressed on to a CV I picked up at a swap meet, and I'm trying to figure out how to set up the support bracket. It's either going to go to the back of the S&S intake I'm running, or to the front of the carb. So post away when you have a chance...
-Kuda
'49 FL
Post by gearbox on Sept 11, 2006, 1:46pm
kuda
I put support brackets on both of the top holes in the backing plate to two of the pan cover bolts. I saw the set up here some where. It works real good and if I wouldn't of come up short on stock , I wouldn't have needed a spacer ,but looks and functions perfectly. I will down load and post photos tonight. I have them from start to Finnish, it took me all weekend to finish , I think I spent more time on fabricating the brackets then any thing else.
Post by ozwick on Sept 11, 2006, 3:17pm
fourthgear,
I am tinkering with the idea of getting a CV and would like to see your photos as well. Is there a document that has been created as a reference to use instead of reading the many replies?
Thanks!
Mark
Post by gearbox on Sept 11, 2006, 4:02pm
ozwick
Nothing that I know of ,but I will give brief descriptions of what is in each photo and what is going on. Its not to bad of a job , just make sure you have every thing you think you will need to do the job. The photos will help a great deal.
> Things you will need ;
-CV 40 carburetor ( from stock HD w/exc. pump and enricher cable)
-New type pull throttle cable ( I measured mine and came up with a 37 1/2 cable from a fltc , I think and its too long but works , I think I can go to a 35 1/2. or 33 ", you may need to change you throttle to newer type, out side cable.The CV carb. cables have longer cables in them for the longer reach that is needed to attach them.
- Screaming eagle round backing plate , I think is for an EVO motor.
- Three stand off bolts for stock air cleaner, bolts backing plate to carb..
- S&S intake manifold for Panhead ( not sure if they make them for plumbers manifolds ) , insulating spacer for carb w/gaskets.( mines about 1/2 inch. )
-Air cleaner cover of your choosing.
- You will need to make a cover bracket or use the stock SE air filter to attach the cover to.
- Metal stock of some sort, to make support brackets for carb or backing plate.
- I had to alter the stock cable bracket on the carb to clear the head.( cut the push cable holder off and bend the pull cable holder, or tweak it so to speak, I had to go out and buy a new Dremel tool (machine shop in a box) because after over fifteen years it took its last dump. )
- Need to pull plug from carb for idle mixture adj. screw.( look into posts here for proceedure info.
Post by caschnd1 on Sept 12, 2006, 2:35am
Fourthgear,
Glad to here you got it running. You gotta love the CV carb for easy starting. It's not stock and I wouldn't put one on my bike if I was going for that stock look. But for a modified bike they are hard to beat. Let us know how it goes when you get it rejetted.
Kuda,
You asked about where to put the support bracket. Put it on the air cleaner backing plate or some other place on the carb (I've seen em' hooked to the screws that hold the top on the carb). Even though the carb is pressed onto the adapter, you don't want it hanging out on the end of the manifold without support. The vibration is bound to loosen it up over time and cause a leak or worse yet, she'll fall off at the worst time. ;D
-Craig
Post by gearbox on Sept 12, 2006, 12:12pm
I could only send a couple of photos at a time(long story ) and am going to just set a couple here for an over view when I get them all to this PC.
I have found one thing with the CV , I'm used to giving her some throttle when starting with the Linkert , but the CV don't like no throttle at all and if you forget that, it takes more than one kick.
caschnd1
With my five gal. tanks ( which aren't OEM any way ) it looks close to stock , that air cleaner is 8" in dia. any way so it hogs more room on the appearance of the motor.
Post by gearbox on Sept 13, 2006, 1:06pm
I put four photo's in the miscellaneous files in the panhead gallery and as soon as the boss approves them I will try to send them on this forum. I have a bunch of photo's because I wanted to document the whole process. I just put those four in because they do show an over view.
Post by ozwick on Sept 13, 2006, 3:04pm
fourthgear,
I look forward to checking out your installation!
Thanks for the photos.
ozwick
Post by gearbox on Sept 13, 2006, 3:39pm
I'm not sure I like the air cleaner cover , it looks like one of those metric cruisers and too large. I think if I were to do it again w/ 5 gal. tanks , I would not have centered the cover , I could have dropped it down an inch and I think it would have been enough. I think stock 3 1/2 gal tanks would not have gotten in the way so much or at all , my old re-pop from the Linkert might fit , I will check it out tonight and if I like it will take a photo.
I looked at my jets last night and I have a 190 main jet and a 45 pilot jet( came from a 2002 Twinkie) , so I ordered a 175 main and a 50 pilot to start with. I did have a stumble at the very low end and It seemed like I had all kinds of power at the upper end ( as far as my three mile test ride could do, its been raining here every day since I changed out , of course ) but I could not do the test @ speed as was described in the articles I read from the links here , but will do it when I change the jets. Tonights bike night at the local wing place and its going to rain all day , of course. I will also try the high speed test before I change the jets when ever it gives us a break , I was hoping I could tonight.
Oh ya, thanks boss!
Post by mbskeam on Sept 14, 2006, 12:03am
cool, cant wait to see the pics.......
but please remember some of us are dial up....so not to.......BIG.......please...LOL ;D ;D
mbskeam
Post by gearbox on Sept 14, 2006, 12:07pm
Four of the photos are in miscellaneous files in the panhead gallery, how do you transfer the address link to get them over to this sight? I tried a couple of times after reading about loading photos and no luck. I tried to copy and past and that didn't work.Do you just type the address on here?
Post by billy on Sept 14, 2006, 4:28pm
(1) http://www.hydra-glide.com/coppermine/displayimage.php?pos=-931
(2) http://www.hydra-glide.com/coppermine/displayimage.php?pos=-930
(3) http://www.hydra-glide.com/coppermine/displayimage.php?pos=-929
(4) http://www.hydra-glide.com/coppermine/displayimage.php?pos=-928
Fourthgear- I just cut-n-pasted them.. Hope this IS what U wanted... ;D
PS: you can easily lower your outer air cover just drill & tap a lower hole...
Plus: Nice double support brackets !!!! SOLID !!!!
Post by gearbox on Sept 14, 2006, 6:10pm
You the man , sleeper , I must have done something wrong with the copy & paste or this PC at work won't let me. I will put a few more in to day and see if I can do it from home tomorrow.
That carb is rock solid just as the Linkert was , may be better ( I hope the linkert gods are not listening.) , I saw that idea in this forum some where and it worked out ok , just took a while to bend them to the perfect angles to fit with out putting a strain on the assembly.
Post by billy on Sept 15, 2006, 4:53am
Nice clean install... Looks Fine
Post by gearbox on Sept 22, 2006, 12:38pm
Well I got new jets the other day for the CV and they sent the wrong main jet I even had the right part number on the invoice ( I did change the pilot jet from a 45 to a 50) , so I have to send it back to get the right one, oh well. I rode her in to work today and just can't believe the diff. in just changing the carb.. I wanted to give a fuel mileage update , but with out the right main jet I can't but , I do see a diff. already , too early to tell with out going thru a few tanks of fuel for consistency.
Post by gearbox on Sept 25, 2006, 1:10pm
Well after riding the weekend after just replacing the pilot jet from a 45 to a larger 50 , I have a popping at just opening the throttle in any gear other wise she runs great. I read in one of the links posted here that you can put a washer under the main needle for a richer low speed setting. I have not changed the main jet yet because they sent the wrong jet , its still a # 190 and my plugs look clean ,but more on the lighter side of tan. Now will that.50 or 1/16 brass washer under the main needle put me too rich or should I get the needle that can be set at diff. settings? I think I will put the # 45 pilot jet back in because it sure ran a lot better with it , but still had a slight popping in the same throttle setting.
Post by kuda on Sept 25, 2006, 3:13pm
I'd go back to the 45 and shim the needle up slightly. A tiny washer will do the trick, you don't really need the adjustable needle unless you plan on doing frequent mods. But I'm not sure you're going to need anything smaller than a 185 on the main. I'd just shim the needle and give it a shot first. If haven't reordered yet, I'd get a 175 AND a 185. Weird thing about the K CV's is the way a change in one area (low speed jet, needle, or main jet) bleeds into other areas. In other words, going up one size in the low jet effects the needle area too. And changing the position of the needle will effect the high speed, too. Don't ask me how, however, but I've played around with the CV on my other bike and done dozens of dyno runs on it, and I've seen this happen many times... Worst case scenario, they also make a 46 low speed...
-Kuda
'49 FL (soon to be CV too)
Post by billy on Sept 25, 2006, 4:13pm
yes there is a 46 & a 48
but sounds like you may need to go a bit richer on the 'idle-mix' (screw is located under the carb). bout 2 or 2 1/2 turns out works for me..
Post by gearbox on Sept 26, 2006, 12:28pm
Kuda
You are probably right on about one thing changing another, I kinda expected that. I would have thought that changing the pilot to a 50 would have taken care of it. My plan tonight is to first do as Sleeper advised , I will open the idle mixture screw about a half turn( its open two turns now) and see how that does and then washer the needle and see where I am then. I've been busy putting a fence up and have not had time right now to play. I should be seeing my 175 jet real soon so if this set up doesn't work I will start over with the 175.
Thanks for the input , any help I can get is good since I know close to nothing about CV carbs, more now than a month ago though.
Post by gearbox on Oct 5, 2006, 2:11pm
Well , I finally got around to adj. carb and changing the hight adj. on the main needle. Adj. the idle mix did not make a diff. (I was hopeful that would be it ), but putting.050 brass washers under the needle made a big diff. although I still have a pop only once in a while and am beginning to think it is other than the carb now. She cranks right up through with no hesitation even at low speed , which is when it was happening and seems to be running cooler ( yes you could feel the diff. in heat between your legs )I will have to run some miles this way to make a better evaluation of it and let you know.
I am going to put my Mallory in this weekend to see if my slight popping is ignition or some thing else ( I haven't adj. my lifters in a couple of thousand miles so there could be some thing there too)
Post by billy on Oct 5, 2006, 10:47pm
If you turn out adj screw 3 turns, & still have this problem,
Go up 1 pilot jet size, & re-set idle-mix @ 2 turns out..
Post by gearbox on Oct 11, 2006, 12:31pm
I installed the Mallory dist. the other day and it is a beautiful thing. No more lag ,popping ,surging , just plain smooth. I will start another thread on it and its installation.
One thing I would like to bring up and that is how clean the plugs are since I installed the CV. I had one the other day that went south ( I just got done washing the bike ) and the only replacement was an old one from when I had the Linkert on and it wasn't real dirty, just some tan deposits and when I pulled the plugs to install the Mallory , that plug cleaned up too. I have never seen plugs so clean in any old Hd.
Post by billy on Oct 11, 2006, 6:05pm
Fourthgear-
I'd be careful you're not running it too lean..
on an evo (flat-top pistons) just off-white plugs are ok..
Older HD's should have at least a 'nice tan' to them..
Course w/today's fuels & additives it is harder to 'read' plugs..
Additionally: I'm quite sure you will see improved gas mileage as well. Enjoy... ;D
Post by gearbox on Oct 11, 2006, 7:14pm
sleeper
Yup , I was worried about that too until I changed the hight on that main needle and they do have a slight tan too them but, when I say clean I mean the whole part of the plug thats in the combustion chamber. I am used to seeing some type of build up ,even after just a couple of hundred miles. It may be because I have so few miles on the new motor ( 5000+ ),but I don't think so, I think its because of a couple of factors , which I will be keeping a eye on for future reference. I am not going to say what kind of gas mileage I am getting because I haven't went thru enough tanks yet to make any assumptions. I will say if true ,its amazing. I wish I would of had time to do a good mileage test before I put the Mallory in, with just the CV change out. Just think Sleeper , it was your talk and others that talked me into trying out the CV and I'm already glad I did.
Post by billy on Oct 12, 2006, 12:02am
O-sure blame me & the others, for your conversion.. ;D ;D
PS: Don't tell anyone cause this may catch on.. :-X
Glad you're happy with it.
I see regularly 10-15 mpg increases over S&S E's, with no noticable difference in performance (at any RPM) or situation..
Post by caschnd1 on Oct 12, 2006, 1:26am
I'm currently trying to corner the eBay market on unmolested CV take-offs. Now that H-D has gone almost completely to fuel injection there won't be as many CVs available. Once I corner the market on CVs, I plan to take over the world!
Sorry.. must have inhailed too many gas fumes from all the CVs on the shelf in my garage. ;D
-Craig
Post by gearbox on Oct 12, 2006, 12:29pm
Sleeper & Caschnd1
If thats the worst you can get blamed for , your doing pretty good in life.Seems like most want the S&S over the CV and before I put one in service , I really didn't know what a good carb. it is. ( Ya the S&S is American made , right )
I have already been thinking about the fuel injection for the Pan and when we figure that one out the WORLD WILL BE OURS. HA HA HA HA HA HA HA cough, gasp ,choke.
Post by dremelts on Oct 18, 2006, 5:13pm
Last nite I finally got my bike cranked up with the "new" CV on it. All I can say is WOW, now I know why everyone is so gung-ho about this carb. I purposely had left the accel. pump disconnected because I wanted to just see how the jets I had in it behaved. So, not being able to squirt any fuel in by twisting the throttle, I gave it 3-4 priming kicks, ignition on, and it started on the first kick. And this is after the bike had been sitting for a week. Normally that would have meant a pretty good workout trying to get it to fire up.
I think the #50 pilot jet is okay, but I did raise the needle one notch (it's an adjustable one - looks like stainless and I think it might be a dyna jet but not sure). Anyway, it was kind of stumbling when I was cruising at about 50 mph. Raising the needle one notch seems to have cured that.
I should confess that I had installed the CV once before and could not get it to run well at all so I took it off and put the Keihin butterfly back on. I found a link (in another forum I think) that showed a comparison between the CV and the Mikuni and one of the pictures pointed out that you need to be sure there is some free play in the cable when the enrichener is all the way in. I checked mine and found that I did not have any free play and therefore the enrichener was partially open even when the knob was all the way in. After rectifying that situation I'm lovin' this carb. Just wish it didn't stick out so far.
Post by gearbox on Oct 19, 2006, 1:55pm
57pan
How did you check or adj. the enricher cable? I don't think mine is out of adj. , but I like to know all I can about this carb.. Glad to see you are happy with it now , I can't say enough about how well this carb performs.
Post by dremelts on Oct 19, 2006, 4:41pm
''How did you check or adj. the enricher cable?''
On my cable there is a knurled nut on the end that you can adjust so that it grips the shaft. When this nut is tight then the enrichener knob will stay in the position that you put it. When you loosen this nut all the way the spring inside the carb will pull the enrichener to the closed position. Now with the enrichener in the closed position and no friction on the shaft you should be able feel a slight back and forth movement on the knob and you should be able to see just a little bit of the shaft between the knob and cable housing. If the knob is bottoming out on the cable housing then it is possible that it is preventing the enrichener valve from fully closing.
Since there is no way to easily adjust the length of the cable housing I filed some material off the end of the 90 deg. metal tube that goes into the plastic fitting on the carb.
Post by billy on Oct 20, 2006, 6:26am
Different ways to skin that cat:
I file some off the plastic control-knob back-side, then it seats & shows a slight bit of cable..This way I can still have the enrichener stay where I want it..(& no dis-assembly needed). Usually though, I add a different knob & just JB weld it on a bit off bottomed out on the cable...
Post by billy on Oct 24, 2006, 8:16am
57pan-
you said:
"After rectifying that situation I'm lovin' this carb. Just wish it didn't stick out so far".
Just wondering which carb 'adapter' you used???
If it was one from J&P cycles or similiar, there is a much narrower one, bout.400 thick..(that's the ticket)......
Carb gets tucked in pretty good.. Saves on the leg !!!!
Post by dremelts on Oct 24, 2006, 11:34am
Sleeper,
Yes, I have the adapter from the guy on eBay. I'm also using the insulating spacer between the carb and manifold.
I guess it's just that with the Keihin butterfly carb that I had on before the air cleaner cover stuck out about as far as the gas tank and now it sticks out beyond the gas tank. This is just enough to make it slightly awkward to get my foot on the peg (no floorboards).
I have been looking it over and I think that it would be possible to take a section out of the S&S manifold and move the carb inboard a little bit. Maybe that will be one of my winter projects.
Post by gearbox on Oct 25, 2006, 12:31pm
57pan
Do you have stock size 3.5 tanks? I'm running 5's and my CV is not in the way ,but I do rest my leg against it and I also have an insulator between the carb a& manifold. I think its about a half inch thick or so. What air cleaner are you running?
Post by dremelts on Oct 25, 2006, 4:50pm
I have 5 gal. tanks on it, the air cleaner is the 8" round stainless cover.
It's not a huge difference - I would just prefer it to be tucked in a little more. It's certainly not enough to make me want to go back to the old carb - that's for sure.
Post by pantony on Jan 12, 2007, 11:57am
Just got a CV to try, we will see
Post by panacea on Jan 13, 2007, 12:23am
pantony, I ordered an adapter off e-bay but did not realize it was desighned to use the oem style rubber carb/intake seal, which not only increases how far out the carb sits but also doesn't help support the carb like a press on would. So watch which one you buy! Mike
Post by pantony on Jan 18, 2007, 4:20am
panacea; I'm going to support the carb on the bottom (al-a Linkert style bracket) then hose from the male spigot on the carb to the "Branch"- Linkert to male Mikuni manifold. I will machine the adapter i will make so I can use a single stud on the bottom of the carb like a Linkert. Also machining up a fuel fitting to linkert fuel filter adapter so I will have an original style fuel line and carb mounting. Throttle will be my original 1948 spirals hooked up to the cruise control butterfly arm. I purposely looked for a cruise control carb for this reason. Also am machining up an adapter so the original choke lever from the Linkert will tie into the enricher cable. all parts will be either parkerised or cad plated when done. The air cleaner is an original J-slot with the recessed center cut out and a blank heliarced in it's place and cut to match the CV air cleaner bracket
Post by panacea on Jan 19, 2007, 12:53am
Tony, sounds like you've got it under control! By the way, Nice bike! Mike
Post by gearbox on Jan 19, 2007, 2:56pm
Ya can wait to see photo's. You will see I think that for what ever reason, the Panheads intake system seems to like the CV carb. the change in all around performance is great. Mine starts first kick cold with no priming kicks , just a little squirt of accelerator pump when cold , none when warm. I think people stand around just to see how many it will take and are disappointed when I just push her thru to fire her up.
Post by caschnd1 on Jan 19, 2007, 10:17pm
Fourthgear,
Funny you should mention the disappointment. I've noticed that more then a couple times myself. Seems like some guys are wanting to see you huff & puff & kick and when it starts right up you can actually see the look of disappointment on their face. LOL... Let's keep disappointing them ;D
-Craig
Post by panacea on Jan 20, 2007, 2:44am
Never put a kill switch on a pan.....Makes em hard to start when you forget to turn em on. Mike
Post by billy on Jan 20, 2007, 7:00am
A "Kill" button is good though..Near the hand grip...
Don't have to remember to switch back on, & if the machine goes wild you have a Kill button handy ;D
Post by johnhd on Jan 20, 2007, 2:56pm
hey i finally figured out how to mate a metal fuel line and linkert fuel screen to my CV!
it was a result of my winter project to eliminate all of the rubber components in my fuel and oil system.
if it warms up some in the shop i'll post some pictures later, it is 3 degrees out there right now!
john
Post by billy on Jan 21, 2007, 9:11am
John-
Take yer time, when ya get to it, I'd sure like to see yer mods.. Sounds Good..
I'm still riding ;D, & mowing my grass, but this may be the last time for the grass this winter...
Post by johnhd on Jan 22, 2007, 12:09am
now it warmed up and snowed 6 inches... i have to go fix the pull rope on the sno blower, i'll take the camera with me when i go back out!
john
Post by johnhd on Jan 22, 2007, 1:51am
entered them to the matrix, once approved i'll post them for you to see.
john
Post by johnhd on Jan 23, 2007, 2:06am
ok here we go...
i was not kidding about the snow blower, notice how it matches the color of my bike!
and a top view
i was able to use 2 1/8" pipe elbows, a hex nipple inbetween and a re threaded linkert float needle valve to make the assembly.
the trickest part was the float needle valve, i cut the top off and used a 1/8" npt die to rethread it and screwed it into the last elbow with some anti sieze on the threads.
the original plastic elbow on the cv was broken off, then i removed the brass insert by clamping it securely in a vise and gently twisting the carb body back and forth until it broke free. it is just pressed in from the factory.
after that i drilled the aluminum out to the correct size to pipe tap the side of the carb. this allowed the installation of the first elbow, female on one end male on the other. street elbow is what i think they call it.
i just screwed it together one piece then the next, the modified float needle valve went in last to make the change from pipe thread to the top of the fuel screen.
voila! no more rubber gas lines! with the offset created by the elbows the distance is correct to use a stock steel gas line.
if i ever want to put a linkert on my bike for show it would be an hour job!
john ;D
Post by billy on Jan 23, 2007, 5:22am
John-
Nice clean job... Looks like it grew there..
I also put the enricheners in the same location= quick made bracket...
So that's a snow-blower....Yep it does match yer Pan's color..
Post by gearbox on Jan 23, 2007, 5:10pm
So, you fire her up yet? Looks real good.
They got trucks down here that advertise " FREE SNOW REMOVAL ". They can get away with it here.
Post by johnhd on Jan 24, 2007, 1:01am
the snow blower got quite the workout after i posted that pic, went through 2 tanks of gas!
as for the bike, yes i fired her up after i completed the fuel screen project and no leaks!
john
Post by billy on Jan 24, 2007, 7:48am
John-
In case your snow gets really bad.. This is a Big Block Chevy that blows snow (reportedly) 200 ft... Here it is running @ just above idle, as witnessed by the rain-cap flappers barely open on the header/stacks ;D ;D
Kids: Don't try this at home...
Post by johnhd on Jan 24, 2007, 12:46pm
now i need one of them!
i wonder if he reversed the radiator fan to keep his feet warm?
john
Post by hplhd1 on Feb 17, 2007, 12:52am
i hope someomne sees this. i finaly got around to starting to mount a cv carb i picked up from a buddy. i had a manifold leak i found(thanks cotten for tips and mike for your pressure kit) i bought the adapter(press on) for the carb. now finaly my question. has anyone had trbl with the throttle cable bracket hitting the head. i ground of the half of it as i am only running 1 cable but its still will not fit due to it hitting the head. it makes the carb want to sit to far to the left of the manifold. what the hell is going on.i have cast finned rocker boxs on but i don't think that is the prob, or is it. thanks,rich
Post by billy on Feb 17, 2007, 8:02am
Are you using a phenolic spacer too?
That will give ya an additional approx 3/8" clearance, & help prevent heat transfer..
if still stuck, can ya post a pic?
Post by johnhd on Feb 17, 2007, 4:55pm
mine is real close too. i did as you mentioned and edited the throttle cable bracket. i completely removed the cable ferrule and used two nylon lawn mower style cable stop nuts.
keep in mind my bike uses the stock push throttle wire so i had no other choice.
i think sleeper's suggestion would give you the clearance you need.
john
Post by hplhd1 on Feb 17, 2007, 10:55pm
billy, john, it looks like 2 of the 3/8 spacers will make it work. do you think that will mess anything up stacking them. i've seen alumin ones that are thicker but they cost to much. also on the carb adapter that sells on ebay(press on) i just noticed the studs i use are much larger dia. than what the cat tapped in the adapter and the bore hole is a WHOLE lot smaller. any prob with the carb transitioning like that. sorry for the jumbled questions, i hit my head on the ice yesterday and have a concusion.
Post by billy on Feb 18, 2007, 6:52am
hplhd1-
I have never found the need for this much clearance. However- I would try the stack first, the fat alum block is a 'heat-sink'..
You can tap to your size if you feel it necessary.
As far as the intake id being larger (if I understand you correctly?)
no problem there HD has been doing that for decades if not longer. It is also the 1st principal of "venturi" by Bernoulli.. aka Makes intake charge faster.
Hope yer head feels better....
Post by hplhd1 on Feb 18, 2007, 8:30am
thanks billy, i'll try the stack. i don't remeber ever reading anyone having this problem before. i reread my last post and i confused myself with the last question. you are right i meant the dia of the carb and adapter is much smaller than the sse manifold. as far as my head, the headache is getting worse. the upset stomach went away(kinda). i'll go to the er om monday if it's not better.
thanks again
Post by johnhd on Feb 18, 2007, 2:53pm
hplhd,
i don't think you will have a problem with the different diameters. i run an old su style manafold with a rubber spigot adaptor. it runs good and has excellent throttle response.
hope you head feels better quick.
john
Post by gearbox on Feb 19, 2007, 2:37pm
I had to alter my throttle bracket on mine a little , I used my Dremil tool to grind off a little and also bend it a little to clear the head assem. I think I took photos of it and will look for them. The problem with adding more spacers is on how much the carb. sticks out and my be uncomfortable riding with it sticking out too far.
http://www.hydra-glide.com/coppermine/displayimage.php?pos=-939
Post by hplhd1 on Feb 20, 2007, 9:32am
thanks guys, before i monkey with the carb i have to seal the manifold. the manifold looks fine and the nipple looks good but i can't get the sumbitch to not leak air. do yall put the orings on dry or any goober glob shit i can lay it to help. man i should just leave shit alone.
Post by gearbox on Feb 20, 2007, 10:42am
hplhd1
Use new o-rings if you are having problems, once they have been compressed and leak , they might have been pinched by the nipple or cut and you may not be able notice it. No goobers on them , put them on clean and dry. They can be a pain some times to get on. I put them on the head spigot and roll them on to the manifold , the pressure of both o-rings help hold the manifold in place so you can put the clamps on , but keep a hold on the manifold when putting the clamps on or you could dislodge the o-rings.
As far as bending the throttle bracket , make sure you don't try to bent it by the cable guide , its only crimped on. I had mine off the carb to tweak it and I also cut the push cable side of the bracket off before I played with bending it , I use the pull cable only, depends on your set up.
Post by hplhd1 on Feb 21, 2007, 7:58am
i havn't tested yet but i noticed when i bolted the plate on the manifold to pressure test i left the support that is in between the cylinders. when i tighten the bolt on the support it pulls the manifold off to one side just a c hair, but enough to probly keep from sealing it up. i got to play with the support bracket.
4th gear, i bought new o-rings and clamps from vtwin. one of the clamps imediatly broke as i was trying to tighten. i'll use the old clamps. after i hit it with some air i'll let ya know.
