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Star hub rebuild

Wheels, hubs and tires
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concrete guy
Posts: 106
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 6:02 pm
Location: Iowa

Star hub rebuild

#1

Post by concrete guy » Tue Jun 17, 2008 12:33 am

I need to do a rebuild and would take any help I can get. I have used the search function and have read all related topics (I think?)

Sealed bearing upgrade? I have a lathe and a mill. Any info?

Try a repop kit from J$P? Do these parts fit or is it just a pain in the arse? Their front door is 15 mins from my shop.

I haven't tore into yet and I am trying to save as much time as possible because the driving is nuts here still since the 1000 year flood in Cedar Rapids.

I can take the wheel and put lateral force on it and get it to move every bit of a 1/4" back and forth, so I think its time :)

Thanks,
Scott



Cotten
Posts: 6911
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 9:09 am
Location: Central Illinois

#2

Post by Cotten » Tue Jun 17, 2008 1:16 am

Scott!

Unless the bearing surfaces within the hub are badly galled, a rebuild is little more than fitting oversized rollers and fresh seals. If your endlpay is excessive, inspection will soon tell you if you need a thrushwasher or two.

The service manual is very thorough.

....Cotten

51Hog
Posts: 664
Joined: Fri May 20, 2005 7:29 pm
Bikes: 1951 Fl
Location: Wasilla, Alaska

#3

Post by 51Hog » Tue Jun 17, 2008 1:22 am

You really should pull it apart to see if the races are still good. If they are, it is not a problem to rebuild them with the correct parts. They do last a long time. If the hub is good, it does not make sense to destroy it by upgrading to the sealed units. Since you have to take the hub out of the rim anyway, why not just replace it with a repop that is already converted, and sell your original?
Dale

51Hog
Posts: 664
Joined: Fri May 20, 2005 7:29 pm
Bikes: 1951 Fl
Location: Wasilla, Alaska

#4

Post by 51Hog » Tue Jun 17, 2008 1:24 am

You are quick on the draw there Cotten....LOL :-)

concrete guy
Posts: 106
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 6:02 pm
Location: Iowa

#5

Post by concrete guy » Tue Jun 17, 2008 1:31 am

I am all for keeping it stock. Just seems that I have read about some problems with aftermarket parts all fitting together. I haven't had time to tear it down yet because it takes 2 hours to drive what used to take 20 mins right now.

So I am just going to go to J$P in the morning and buy a collection of oversized rollers. What other things would you guys recommend to make sure I have all the right parts? I would rather return the extras at a later date if not needed.

Thanks,
Scott

concrete guy
Posts: 106
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 6:02 pm
Location: Iowa

#6

Post by concrete guy » Tue Jun 17, 2008 1:38 am

When I say it will wobble back and forth over a 1/4", I don't mean end play. What I am saying is that it will twist out of square of the axle.

Guest

#7

Post by Guest » Tue Jun 17, 2008 2:17 am

She must have run dry, did you ever service the bearing? If it IS toast there is a guy with a website that turns the inside to accept timkens. Check him out at msockwel@aol.com Mike

concrete guy
Posts: 106
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 6:02 pm
Location: Iowa

#8

Post by concrete guy » Tue Jun 17, 2008 2:20 am

Only had the bike a few months and I am just going through it getting stuff right. Have the machining equipment if need be. Just looking for the best options.

shsj
Posts: 20
Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2007 7:29 pm

#9

Post by shsj » Fri Jun 20, 2008 6:36 pm

Hey Concrete Guy,

I'm the guy that does the Timken conversion referred to earlier by 'Guest' at msockwel@aol.com. There is a post about it a few pages back on this forum. First see if your races are good, that's the best way to go but if they are pitted I can do the conversion.

Since you seem machine shop literate I'll mention that I do the work with a 5c expanding collet chuck and internal arbors machined to fit the inside of the hub. That all took a hell of a lot of time to put together. This way I'm not chucking up the hub flange and bending it all out of shape. I also use all stock axles and spacers and fit bearings that remove a very minumum amount of material to maintain hub structure. The center spacer is guaranteed not to fall down into the hub when the axle is removed and endplay is fully adjustable with shims.

I don't have a website yet but I can send you some photos if you would like and the price starts at $119.

~shsj

concrete guy
Posts: 106
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 6:02 pm
Location: Iowa

#10

Post by concrete guy » Wed Jun 25, 2008 4:07 am

Thanks for the info. I hope to get into the hubs tomorrow afternoon if all goes well. Hopefully just do a standard rebuild for now but I guess we will see.

Thanks again!

51Hog
Posts: 664
Joined: Fri May 20, 2005 7:29 pm
Bikes: 1951 Fl
Location: Wasilla, Alaska

#11

Post by 51Hog » Tue Jul 01, 2008 9:04 am

How did the rebuild go?

VintageTwin
Panhead Register Member
Posts: 731
Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 7:18 pm
Bikes: '46 Knuck. '57 Panhead, '59 Panhead
Location: Repop Hell

#12

Post by VintageTwin » Tue Jul 01, 2008 2:14 pm

I don't have a website yet but I can send you some photos if you would like and the price starts at $119.
Put any pics you want up here. We don't care if you sell Pahnead stuff here. Panheads are us.

concrete guy
Posts: 106
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 6:02 pm
Location: Iowa

#13

Post by concrete guy » Sun Jul 06, 2008 9:24 am

51Hog wrote:How did the rebuild go?
I have yet to tear into the hubs. I have just been riding the shit out of the old girl!! Hell I even have another custom on the lift that needs to be torn down to get ready for paint. I have been having so much fun with the pan that I can't seem to find time to do other work right now!!

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