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Glide Front Axle Problem

Wheels, hubs and tires
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VT

Glide Front Axle Problem

#1

Post by VT » Sun Jul 10, 2005 5:15 pm

The first step on an AM axle (top) has a wide tapered section that won't allow the axle to fit into the right side of the axle sleeve. It leaves an 1/16" (unseated) gap that allows the hub to move from side to side.
An OEM Glide axle (bottom).
The arrow is pointing the the spot on the AM axle, where the taper stops moving into the axle sleeve.
There's a 1/16" gap created between the contact of the hub bearing sleeve and the far right shoulder-stop on all of the repop axles. The existing taper needs 0.054" of material removed, which is enough relief for all '49-up re-pop axles.
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Last edited by VT on Fri Oct 14, 2005 7:52 pm, edited 7 times in total.



mbskeam
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#2

Post by mbskeam » Tue Jul 12, 2005 5:57 am

FLASH BACKS..........of EVIL
I see after almost 15 years they havn't fixed this problem yet.....
I ended up boring the axel sleeve to let it fit right, kinda sucks that this still has not been FIXED after all these years
mbskeam

VT

#3

Post by VT » Tue Jul 12, 2005 2:39 pm

15 yrs. on this part too?? No way!!:shock:......Way?? :?
Well, every piece of junk I get is going up on this site. When it comes to axles & brake shoes I want my parts pre-screened for utility and fit, so I call Kick-Start for parts (616) 245-8991. 10-5 EST, M-F. You gotta learn how to bob & weave through the "parts obstacles" out here in Kit-Land that's for poz.

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#4

Post by mbskeam » Wed Jul 13, 2005 12:49 am

yes,
read other post on brake drum as I did all this at the same time.
I put it togethor and used feeler gages to get the amount it was off by, and bored the sleeve to fit.
mbskeam

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#5

Post by rigidpanman » Wed Jul 13, 2005 8:50 pm

ok guys,who is am

panhead
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#6

Post by panhead » Wed Jul 13, 2005 9:46 pm

after market

SkyHogg
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#7

Post by SkyHogg » Fri Jul 15, 2005 8:48 pm

Who's making (or more importantly, selling) all this junk? Isn't there someone out there who checks the stuff before they offer it in their catalog? I got a one-piece flat and Y pipe for my '64 that was from (made by?) Milwaukee Twins, and had to take a rubber mallet and hammer the damn thing on. The rear of the pipe stuck out at an impossible angle. I would have sent it back, but my old one was too ate-up to use, and I had somewhere I wanted to ride to. Is there a retailer that only sells stuff that works? I guess I'm griping to the wrong people, but it just seems too easy to say "here, reproduce this part" and they make it to the same specs. What's so difficult in that? Once everything is made in China (which is the way we are headed) and we become sheep and settle for crap, we Americans are gonna become a third world country.
Last edited by SkyHogg on Sat Jul 16, 2005 8:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

panhead
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#8

Post by panhead » Fri Jul 15, 2005 9:08 pm

Jan Willem Boon (http://www.jwboon.nl or http://www.nosparts.com) sells good quality (even NOS) parts.

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#9

Post by mbskeam » Wed Jul 20, 2005 4:28 am

hello,
ya..... I wonder what the hell is wrong with THEM......
even a child can see that this is not even close to OEM.
I wonder if they put this stuff togethor before dumping it on the market,
well I guess that is a big fat NO.....
must be using too much of the leafy green......
mbskeam
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#10

Post by mbskeam » Wed Jul 20, 2005 6:01 am

hello,
well, I put it togethor and used feeler gages to get the gap measurement,
then we put the axle sleeve into the lathe and set the cutter up to the angle of the sleeve, touched off ond went in the amount of the feeler gage.plus a couple more thou to lock it up tight.
you can do the axle also this way, also you can cut a spacer that fits on the out side of the axle, you will not see it if you do it right.
mbskeam

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#11

Post by mbskeam » Mon Jul 25, 2005 3:55 am

hello,
I would think that it might be grade 8 at the most, if you take a file and the file cuts the part it can be cut on the lathe with no problem.when you try this on a hardened part, the file will not cut, but just skip of the surface and not make a mark.does the oem axle have a small radius on the shoulder?
mbskeam

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#12

Post by mbskeam » Fri Jul 29, 2005 12:11 am

did you cut the axle yet?
mbskeam

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#13

Post by mbskeam » Fri Jul 29, 2005 4:37 am

hello,
no this was just a ? to you. did you have it cut. and I see that you did not..
print looks okay to me, but when cutting angles I think that a little will go a long ways. think about it this way .010 off a taper will let it sink in father than .010
you almost need the set up( wheel an parts) there to cut. and try and fit. that is how we did mine.
I am going out this weekend also.... fun fun fun and drinkin too
mbskeam

Guest

#14

Post by Guest » Sat Jul 30, 2005 5:00 pm

Kirk,the axle on original equipment does not bottom out on a taper or anything. The axle should pull the whole wheel assembly to the drum side. There is no endplay setting for the axle assembly, the only side to side movement should be from the correct endplay in the wheel. The pinch bolts should be tightened after the axle is pulled up tight, without pushing or pulling the leg in or out. Unless there is a problem with the length of the sleeve or width of the brake back plate the spacing should be correct. Just turn off the extra material on the axle. - Kyle Onan (How to free-spin an installed generator without removing the cam cover) 8)

Guest

#15

Post by Guest » Sat Jul 30, 2005 7:51 pm

Kyle's right, there's no play at all in the axle assembly. The axle, axle sleeve and spacer should be tight as hell. The only side to side play should be in the hub and this is adjusted by shims. I'm not a Pan man at all, but there may be a taper there to prevent a riser (I think that's what you call it) from snaping the axle in half. Put it in, smoke it down and ride it.

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