1940 ULH BAFFLE

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Holtvintage
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1940 ULH BAFFLE

#1

Post by Holtvintage » Thu Nov 08, 2018 3:39 am

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Holtvintage
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Re: 1940 ULH BAFFLE

#2

Post by Holtvintage » Thu Nov 08, 2018 3:43 am

Any thoughts on the baffle situation as far as being partial missing. Should I have the rest removed or will it accomplish its function as is? Just thinking out loud but it should add a little strength? I believe the back never had baffles? Thanks, Brian

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Re: 1940 ULH BAFFLE

#3

Post by RooDog » Thu Nov 08, 2018 2:13 pm

With modern three piece oil rings would we even need that baffle?
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Re: 1940 ULH BAFFLE

#4

Post by kitabel » Thu Nov 08, 2018 2:44 pm

Hmmm... quite the quandary.
Let's see if anyone knows what that does.

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Re: 1940 ULH BAFFLE

#5

Post by nmaineron » Thu Nov 08, 2018 3:15 pm

What do they do ? Keep oil on top or keep it in the bottom?

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Re: 1940 ULH BAFFLE

#6

Post by Buddhahoodvatoloco » Thu Nov 08, 2018 3:36 pm

Yikes, I'd start bawling I seen that.
But addressing a previous post, the baffles are to keep the slosh on the bottom.

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Re: 1940 ULH BAFFLE

#7

Post by chuckthebeatertruck » Thu Nov 08, 2018 4:04 pm

There's a stock/factory answer; and there's today's answer, which depends on what rods you're going to run; whether you're using stock piston/ring components; and whether you stroke it.

No, the baffles don't add any noticeable strength to the cases. Cases don't split at the cylinder bases -- cylinders do; but not cases. Cases come apart at the races and radiate from there. Cracks and breaks occur at the mounts if they weren't shimmed correctly -- and sometimes just cause.

Yes, there is a 1930s reason for the baffles that has to do with oiling -- again, the configuration of baffles and the cylinders depends on what rod set and in what order the rods are run. The shop dopes cover this. It's also 2018 and other solutions exist for dealing with oiling.

And, don't think for a second there's that much oil slinging around. It's laughably small compared to later v-twins that used no baffles . . .

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Re: 1940 ULH BAFFLE

#8

Post by Buddhahoodvatoloco » Thu Nov 08, 2018 4:15 pm

Seen this today, might be in your neck of the woods:
https://southbend.craigslist.org/atq/d/ ... 52217.html

Holtvintage
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Re: 1940 ULH BAFFLE

#9

Post by Holtvintage » Thu Nov 08, 2018 7:20 pm

I don't plan on a stroker motor. I will need a complete crank so probably a Truett set up. I've had Paul do some other work for me in the past. My plan is a 4 vane upgrade to a OEM pump, stock scavenger pump, piston squirter, "K" style aftermarket heads and quality aftermarket cylinders. I have to buy cams so probably a set of bolt in aftermarket.

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Re: 1940 ULH BAFFLE

#10

Post by Holtvintage » Thu Nov 08, 2018 7:22 pm

I wish I could have seen this craigslist add when I was shopping for a set of cases. RATS AGAIN

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Re: 1940 ULH BAFFLE

#11

Post by Holtvintage » Thu Nov 08, 2018 7:25 pm

8 hour drive.

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Re: 1940 ULH BAFFLE

#12

Post by chuckthebeatertruck » Thu Nov 08, 2018 10:46 pm

Holtvintage wrote:
Thu Nov 08, 2018 7:20 pm
I don't plan on a stroker motor. I will need a complete crank so probably a Truett set up. I've had Paul do some other work for me in the past. My plan is a 4 vane upgrade to a OEM pump, stock scavenger pump, piston squirter, "K" style aftermarket heads and quality aftermarket cylinders. I have to buy cams so probably a set of bolt in aftermarket.
Now, you've started to answer your own questions.

Research what rods you'll get from T&O and in what configuration.

Figure out from the shop dopes what that means for your baffling -- especially in light of your increasing the crankcase oil volume and adding squirters.

Sorry to be cryptic. What I'm driving at is similar to Kitabel. You're going to spend a lot of money on parts - a lot. You're also planning several modifications. Make sure YOU understand what you're doing and not just following internet advice.

I benefited from a mentor who actually built and rode performance stroker flatties in the 70s and early 80s when they weren't yet "cool." There is a ton of little things to sort when you're starting to deviate from dead stock.

If you want an idea of a dead stock rebuild, there's one going on right now on Classic American Iron.

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Re: 1940 ULH BAFFLE

#13

Post by Holtvintage » Fri Nov 09, 2018 3:57 am

I understand what your are driving at. I have a OEM shop manual and palmers book. I'm on the hunt now for a parts number book. Unfortunately where I live there are virtually no one who rides vintage iron. Most of the mentors have passed. The days of hanging around the Harley shop and shooting the bull with the mechanics are gone. The really sad part is there aren't even any local Independent shops that deal with old iron, let alone big twin flatheads. I've been to Truett and Osborn cycles several times and talk to Paul on the phone but its still a 6 hr drive. I dont want to be the tire kicker calling up and chatting. They have always been very patient so I'm not insinuating anything. I'm not concerned about performance as much as wanting a solid motor. I thought that if I have to buy certain parts than why not buy a performance upgrade as long as it's a more or less "bolt in" upgrade. Meaning not going to hurt longevity in the least. I figured I needed a cam cover and cams when I bring my cases to T&O for bushing sizing/line bore.
I plan on them doing the lower end assembly. Letting Paul let me know what he feels the most comfortable with. I've done EVO and Shovelhead rebuilds but as much as I hate to admit it I'm not a mechanic, just a parts changer. But I'm learning. Thanks for everyone's input, Brian

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Re: 1940 ULH BAFFLE

#14

Post by Larry » Fri Nov 09, 2018 2:25 pm

A 1/4" stroke will make a difference.

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Re: 1940 ULH BAFFLE

#15

Post by chuckthebeatertruck » Fri Nov 09, 2018 2:35 pm

Strokers don't appreciably wear top ends until you get to the 5 inch range. These motors are overbuilt. The three biggest things you can do to increase top end life is better oiling and modern oil control rings and well sorted carburation. Stock motors should see an easy 10-15k on the top end, double that with good mods. Bottom ends are 40-70k miles if assembled well and oil changed regularly.

I'm currently playing with two mods to see what happens to top end life. One is a passive type of piston oiler, the other enough dry film lubricants and thermal barrier coatings to make NASA proud. It will take a few seasons to tell if they make any difference.

for cams, you are kinda leaving something on the table. The three sets available are all stock. There are ways to deal with this. None are cheap.

Get your cases sorted first. Everything starts from there. Ensure your main centerlines are square to decks, decks are flat with a capital f, and your mounts are square and flat. Source the highest quality bearing cages you can afford. I prefer nos, but Jesus they are getting impossible to find. Carl Olsen offered his own as of a couple years ago.

T&O builds a lovely crank. I finished assembling a set recently and was shocked they trued to less than .0005 with almost no fuss. But, we won't talk about the jims pinion shaft. Goofballs ground the pinion bush end oversized and I had to regrind it on yeah olde tool post grinder.

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