help: having problems getting it to run

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pan58head
Posts: 58
Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2007 12:26 pm

help: having problems getting it to run

#1

Post by pan58head » Sat Jun 23, 2007 7:08 pm

Hello All finally got my 58 back together and having problems getting it to run. I replaced points , condersor ,coil. I think I have the timing right. I pulled the push rod cover waited for the intake valve close then wait for the line to be in the window(left side). Then I rotate the single points dist forward towards the front of the bike . Then I tighten the bolt. I have checked the timing with a test light and it looks right. We'll I can kick for ever and the plugs stay dry. If I pull the plugs and pour a little gas in the cylinder and kick I get a back fire. I think that my problem is with the push rods being to tight. By the book it says to get the lifter down and then adjust the lash out (spins )Then 3-4 full turns of the adjuster. Help Please!!!!!!!! Thanks inadvance Bob



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#2

Post by john HD » Sat Jun 23, 2007 8:25 pm

does it feel like you are getting reasonable compression when you kick it?

if you are that may rule out the lifters for now...

it takes a fair amount of fuel during the priming kicks to get a pan ready to fire.

try 3 to 5 priming kicks with ignition off and full choke. retard the timing and switch on and give it a kick.

john

pan58head
Posts: 58
Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2007 12:26 pm

help!!!!!!

#3

Post by pan58head » Sun Jun 24, 2007 3:15 am

Hello Thanks for the input. I just got out of work , figure I will paly around with it on Sunday. I kicked the bike 30 times without it getting fuel. I even tried a little gas in the plug hole. I'm going to start with a compression test first. The motor ran before I pulled it out of the frame. I played with the timing and changed the pushrod covers(adjusted the pushrods) I keep all informed Bob

VT

#4

Post by VT » Sun Jun 24, 2007 3:29 am

I think that my problem is with the push rods being to tight. By the book it says to get the lifter down and then adjust the lash out (spins )Then 3-4 full turns of the adjuster.
Hydraulic lifters? Sounds right, if that's what the book says.
What type of distributor timing did you use? Static timing with a two-lead 6V light bulb?

VT

#5

Post by VT » Sun Jun 24, 2007 2:08 pm

What posts tell me is never take your Pan or Knuckle motor to be rebuilt by anyone who doesn't build these specific motors everyday of their life. And those people that are qualified may live in another state. Accurate Engineering - Dothan, Alabama is one company so qualified.
They're early Harley motor parts supplier is never closed. They always have the parts you need on hand, and only the best aftermarket parts are used. That's the company you want to keep. Everyone else is nothing but trouble.

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#6

Post by Jack_Hester » Sun Jun 24, 2007 7:55 pm

VT makes a good point. Specialized shops for our type engines are relatively few, these days. Know who's building, if you have to go see them. Take your engine along, just in case you are convinced. You definitely won't save on shipping, by carrying it yourself. But, you will guarantee it's safe delivery. UPS caused major damage to a Flathead that I shipped to California. I had it in a very heavy duty crate, with heavy boxing over that. They tore the crate completely loose from the pallet that the engine was mounted to. Broke many fins on the cylinders and heads. They paid for the full damages. But, the engine must be built again. Had a UPS employee email me, after reading about it on another forum. He stated how careless UPS carriers have become, in order to get the packages shipped on time.

Jack

pan58head
Posts: 58
Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2007 12:26 pm

hellp!!!!!!!!

#7

Post by pan58head » Mon Jun 25, 2007 6:18 pm

We'll I figured out the problem, the push rods where too tight. I had no compression. Starts right up 1or2 kick. I still need to know a straight answer on how to ajust the push rods. I just have them alittle tighter thanbeing able to spin in my fingers Thanks bob

VT

#8

Post by VT » Mon Jun 25, 2007 7:20 pm

Hydraulic lifters? Go by the factory manual. I'm not familiar with hyrdaulic.
Solid (conversion from hydraulic) lifters ? Tappet is precisely positioned (tappet is at it's lowest point of travel). "You should be able to rotate the push rod completely around with no trace of bind, using one dry finger on one dry push rod" is the method I use.

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