The 'locking pin' comes with a replacement fork lock kit, which consists of the lock cylinder, roll pin (retainer) locking pin, keys, and the spring that goes behind the locking pin. If you get that along with the replacement casting, you should be good.Blackattack300 wrote: ↑Fri Oct 27, 2017 4:37 amThank you for the advice
How good is Wasco frame service. makes life easy.
That cast de-rake kit with the key lock and pin is ideal. The locking pin is out of stock. is it a part that can be inserted after the de-raking ?. When it’s available or sourced elsewhere .
Is the cast piece at the correct degrees when it’s butted up against the neck and up-tubes ?.( or close to ).(30 deg ?)
Pan heads are few and far between around here. So I don’t have a stock bike to use as a reference.
The replacement casting is made so that if it fits, the fork angle should be 30*. A half a degree either way- even a degree- is barely measurable, anyway. Without a fixture like we use, you'll be close enough.
We use a piece of 1/2" rod inserted through the neck (remove the Welch plug) into the lock casting, as a means to properly locate the casting. Welding is tricky here, and if someone can keep the 1/2" rod moving freely during welding, it's a help. But it seems no matter what, as soon as the tip goes cold, the piece moves toward the weld and perfect alignment goes out the window. So we do the best we can, then ream the bore with a 1/2" straight flute ream after all the welding is done. Ream until the locking pin from the lock kit moves smoothly in and out.
Anything else today? Feel free to ask any time.