Panhead

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Bigincher
Posts: 2830
Joined: Tue Dec 18, 2007 2:10 pm
Bikes: 1941/59 EL
1952 FL
1977 FLH
1994 Fatboy

Re: Panhead

#31

Post by Bigincher » Fri Oct 27, 2017 6:39 am

Blackattack300 wrote:
Fri Oct 27, 2017 4:37 am
Thank you for the advice
How good is Wasco frame service. makes life easy.
That cast de-rake kit with the key lock and pin is ideal. The locking pin is out of stock. is it a part that can be inserted after the de-raking ?. When it’s available or sourced elsewhere .
Is the cast piece at the correct degrees when it’s butted up against the neck and up-tubes ?.( or close to ).(30 deg ?)
Pan heads are few and far between around here. So I don’t have a stock bike to use as a reference.
The 'locking pin' comes with a replacement fork lock kit, which consists of the lock cylinder, roll pin (retainer) locking pin, keys, and the spring that goes behind the locking pin. If you get that along with the replacement casting, you should be good.

The replacement casting is made so that if it fits, the fork angle should be 30*. A half a degree either way- even a degree- is barely measurable, anyway. Without a fixture like we use, you'll be close enough.

We use a piece of 1/2" rod inserted through the neck (remove the Welch plug) into the lock casting, as a means to properly locate the casting. Welding is tricky here, and if someone can keep the 1/2" rod moving freely during welding, it's a help. But it seems no matter what, as soon as the tip goes cold, the piece moves toward the weld and perfect alignment goes out the window. So we do the best we can, then ream the bore with a 1/2" straight flute ream after all the welding is done. Ream until the locking pin from the lock kit moves smoothly in and out.

Anything else today? Feel free to ask any time.



Blackattack300
Posts: 34
Joined: Tue Oct 10, 2017 12:08 pm
Bikes: 1960 pan. 1983 shovelhead
Location: Australia

Re: Panhead

#32

Post by Blackattack300 » Fri Oct 27, 2017 9:43 am

That’s the de-raking part wrapped up. That’s a good rundown of procedure including the things that can go wrong.

Bigincher
Posts: 2830
Joined: Tue Dec 18, 2007 2:10 pm
Bikes: 1941/59 EL
1952 FL
1977 FLH
1994 Fatboy

Re: Panhead

#33

Post by Bigincher » Fri Oct 27, 2017 2:16 pm

Blackattack300 wrote:
Fri Oct 27, 2017 9:43 am
That’s the de-raking part wrapped up. That’s a good rundown of procedure including the things that can go wrong.
Oh, believe me- things will go wrong. It's knowing when to stop and how to get back on track, that's where the experience of the Master comes in. Sometimes all it takes is a few carefully placed whacks with "The 20".... a lead hammer cast into a coffee can mold. Judiciously placed strikes (while cold) can 'nudge' things in just the right direction sometimes. (Think about this when trying to prevent elongation of the top of the neck when pulling the rake out.)
As you can imagine, with the 'triangle' removed from the steering head, the neck is only attached with a small amount of material behind the top bearing cup. While this allows plenty of movement to position the neck correctly, it offers the same chance to get it wrong.
An "able eye" is needed, but bars, pipes, straightedges, and other visual aids can help.

Blackattack300
Posts: 34
Joined: Tue Oct 10, 2017 12:08 pm
Bikes: 1960 pan. 1983 shovelhead
Location: Australia

Re: Panhead

#34

Post by Blackattack300 » Fri Oct 27, 2017 3:44 pm

Yes I have been there , just when you think you got it , then disaster.
Well I’ll document it and post it up here for all to see.
I know a few guys that take pride in their tig welds.

Bigincher
Posts: 2830
Joined: Tue Dec 18, 2007 2:10 pm
Bikes: 1941/59 EL
1952 FL
1977 FLH
1994 Fatboy

Re: Panhead

#35

Post by Bigincher » Fri Oct 27, 2017 5:23 pm

Blackattack300 wrote:
Fri Oct 27, 2017 3:44 pm
Yes I have been there , just when you think you got it , then disaster.
Well I’ll document it and post it up here for all to see.
I know a few guys that take pride in their tig welds.
That'll be interesting.
A good Tig guy can make his welds look like crappy 'factory electric' welds.
Unless you want the welds to disappear, of course.

Doc37W
Posts: 132
Joined: Wed Jul 29, 2015 4:56 pm
Bikes: '37 W,'41 ULH,'59 FLH Handshift,'69 Fl Handshift w/sidecar,

Re: Panhead

#36

Post by Doc37W » Fri Oct 27, 2017 7:33 pm

Also noted that your lower tree is an adjustable one. However, I didn't see the pinned washers (part # 45710-50A, -58) on the bolt that holds the fork out in position. Must be hard to handle with it adjusted out AND a raked neck! Doc

Blackattack300
Posts: 34
Joined: Tue Oct 10, 2017 12:08 pm
Bikes: 1960 pan. 1983 shovelhead
Location: Australia

Re: Panhead

#37

Post by Blackattack300 » Fri Oct 27, 2017 10:31 pm

Doc37W wrote:
Fri Oct 27, 2017 7:33 pm
Must be hard to handle with it adjusted out AND a raked neck! Doc
Yeah.
I’m 5 foot 6 , my toes just reach the pegs , and that front end and bars , makes me feel like a baby orangoutang hanging off a branch in a wind storm.

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