When you kick the kicker in first gear the back wheel turns

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stuckingear

When you kick the kicker in first gear the back wheel turns

#1

Post by stuckingear » Sun Aug 15, 2004 3:13 am

i have a 65model. has not run in while. the motor runs great.but even with the clutch plates out when you kick the kicker in first gear the back wheel turns.it will start in neutral.i could not get the clutch adj.so i took it out to find the problem.still looking.any help would be great.



Cotten
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Re: When you kick the kicker in first gear the back wheel tu

#2

Post by Cotten » Sun Aug 15, 2004 1:43 pm

My wife's '65 is the same way.
So are all my Pans. And my Knucks, too.

If you are in gear, the kicker will turn the drive sprocket. If it turns when you are in neutral, then you have a problem!

stuckingear

Re: When you kick the kicker in first gear the back wheel tu

#3

Post by stuckingear » Sun Aug 15, 2004 3:35 pm

that is good to know.i now have new clutch disc and plates.could you step me through adj.them right.thanks

Cotten
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Re: When you kick the kicker in first gear the back wheel tu

#4

Post by Cotten » Sun Aug 15, 2004 4:29 pm

Got a good manual??

All my bikes are footclutches.

2dogs
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Re: When you kick the kicker in first gear the back wheel tu

#5

Post by 2dogs » Tue Aug 17, 2004 5:20 am

Stuckingear: Cotten's right (as usual) get a manual. The original HD shop manual, Bruce Palmer III's book and Clymers all have reasonably good instructions on setting up the standard 10 spring clutch. So simple even I, a dumb shit, can follow them.

I did that then I took it all out and tried to "improve" the clutch set up with a weird little piece of shit kit from V-Twin called a diaphragm spring pressure plate assembly.

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Re: When you kick the kicker in first gear the back wheel tu

#6

Post by Cotten » Tue Aug 17, 2004 12:26 pm

Palmer's is a landmark reference, but he chose to ignore '65s completely.

There is a slight variance in clutch adjustment from the earlier models because of the change in clutch arm to accommodate the aluminum chainhousing. But the distance between the arm and the shiftlid becomes pretty arbitrary when the arm is usually stopped in its arc of travel by the oiltank mount anyway!

stuckingear

Re: When you kick the kicker in first gear the back wheel tu

#7

Post by stuckingear » Sun Aug 22, 2004 3:47 am

well what i have is a 65 model tranny with a early style mainshaft. i have a early pan.my clutch and drive plates are new.cable and lever new.springs old but still measure good.i havent checked the throught bearing yet.i have palmers book.juast thought you might know a majic act.

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Re: When you kick the kicker in first gear the back wheel tu

#8

Post by kell » Sun Aug 22, 2004 8:54 pm

I wonder if you could have a problem with the clutch bearing.

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Re: When you kick the kicker in first gear the back wheel turns

#9

Post by Andygears » Mon May 16, 2016 8:14 pm

Not magic, basic adjustment for mousetrap eliminator style ( cable under oil tank bracket, short clutch arm)
1st back off cable very loose
2nd use large washer to adjust springs to book measurement (11/16 ? May be wrong)
3rd remove lg washer and screw pushrod all the way in with cable still loose
4th tighten cable to get visible action at the pressure plate
5th use screwdriver tip to watch pressure plate turn with clutch lever pulled in. Top plate should turn even with screwdriver tip held tight against primary cover. Adjust nuts 1/2 turn till even.
6th back off cable
7th unscrew and screw in adjustment screw till it bottoms, couple times till you're sure. Then back off adjustment screw exactly 1/2 turn. Tighten locknut holding screw in place, wrench and screwdriver, not closed end socket!
8th adjust cable so lever has 1/8" free play. Tighten locknut on cable.

Usual problems are:springs too loose or too tight, pressure plate spinning uneven when disengaged, trying to adjust pushrod while cable is tight causing arm to not have full travel at shaft on kicker side, cable binding from tight routing or lack of oil.

Best cable oiler I know is to disconnect at handlebar, get a gear oil or similar Nipple style bottle, cut nipple back to allow end of cable inner and start of outer to be miniclamped on outer, then pour heavy oil into container, screw onto nipple/cable and invert the whole thing and bunji to h'bars till oil comes out lower end. This fills the cable with oil and allows smooth action.

Remember, it's all lever action, large clutch lever moving a larger lever on clutch arm to move a small lever pushing the pushrod after the half turn of play(Needed to not burn the pushrod end)

My 2 cents. Andygears

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