compensating sprocket removal

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FL58
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compensating sprocket removal

#1

Post by FL58 » Sun Feb 15, 2015 2:50 am

Hello,

what is the best way to remove a compensating sprocket. I have the compensating sprocket tool, but how can I avoid the engine to turn without damaging something.
Do I have to turn it clockwise or anti clockwise to take it off.
thanks for your answers
regards



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Re: compensating sprocket removal

#2

Post by jmatch » Sun Feb 15, 2015 4:01 am

Compensating sprocket nut is regular thread, counterclockwise to loosen. Put the tool on the nut and whack it with a rubber or deadblow hammer and it should come loose.

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Re: compensating sprocket removal

#3

Post by Tattoo » Sun Feb 15, 2015 4:39 am

Just checking... Do you have a manual??????

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Re: compensating sprocket removal

#4

Post by 58flh » Sun Feb 15, 2015 1:24 pm

Fl58-----If you have an old exhaust hanger from an Ironhead--This makes a great removal tool,-Where the threaded 2-holes are -you can weld 2-rods that fit the compensater,If you use something else like a spanner-type tool but with a long shaft like a breaker-bar--Cut a piece of steel/long enuff to jam inbetween the clutch hub & Motor sprocket,Put in gear --It might help to duct-tape the rear brake also,Now APPLY PRESSURE counter-clockwise.Once everything gets tight -Then wack it with a deadblow or just more pressure alone may loosen it.---Respectfully---RICHIE

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Re: compensating sprocket removal

#5

Post by blewcrab » Sun Feb 15, 2015 2:51 pm

impact wrench

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Re: compensating sprocket removal

#6

Post by Bosheff » Sun Feb 15, 2015 4:12 pm

Pull a spark plug (either one). Roll engine till the piston is all the way down on the cylinder that you pulled the plug out of. Now stuff a piece of rope down in the cylinder. Tie a knot in the end of the rope so ya don't drop it in the cylinder. Roll the engine in the direction ya want it to go, til it locks up. Yer in business and ya don't break or stress any engine or driveline parts, and best of all it costs almost nuthin....bosheff

FL58
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Re: compensating sprocket removal

#7

Post by FL58 » Sun Feb 15, 2015 10:49 pm

It was blocked, I did got it using Palmer's technique : I put a tough plastic screwdriver handle between primary chain and sprocket.
But as it was very hard, I wanted to be sure that I was applying pressure the right way.
once again thank you guys for your answers, it helps.
Thank you Tattoo for your worries !
sincerely

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Re: compensating sprocket removal

#8

Post by john HD » Sun Feb 15, 2015 11:26 pm

I have one of those chewed up screwdrivers in my tool box.

john

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Re: compensating sprocket removal

#9

Post by Bosheff » Mon Feb 16, 2015 1:05 am

Ya think yer doin that chain any good by stuffin a screwdriver handle between it and the sprocket or the clutch basket, then puttin a load on it?....bosheff

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Re: compensating sprocket removal

#10

Post by john HD » Mon Feb 16, 2015 1:43 am

Probably not. I have a '55. The threads on the other end of the shaft are smaller than the compensator.

No impact for sure.

john

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Re: compensating sprocket removal

#11

Post by JR JOHNSON » Mon Feb 16, 2015 3:21 am

rope trick OK,unless you have valve open,make sure your on compression stroke.I'VE been using a 2.5 soft flat bar,between the teeth of the sprockets,upper, lower teeth, in between, never with out damage.JR

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Re: compensating sprocket removal

#12

Post by Bigincher » Mon Feb 16, 2015 8:30 am

JR JOHNSON wrote:......I'VE been using a 2.5 soft flat bar,between the teeth of the sprockets,upper, lower teeth, in between, never with out damage.JR
That's the best way right there, it's foolproof. The harder you pull on the breaker bar,(or special tool for comp sprocket), the more it resists it. Been doing it like that a long long time. I call it a "jam bar". Once you do it, you roll your eyes at how simple it is. And no duct tape required.
Wedging anything between the chain and sprocket can cause damage, or even jerk the transmission forward. Surprises me that comes from Palmer.
At any rate, glad you got it done, FL58. Next time, give the jam bar a try...

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Re: compensating sprocket removal

#13

Post by Dave_R » Mon Feb 16, 2015 4:58 pm

Jam bar... Best way.

I made one out of a piece of 1x2 wood, slightly tapering each end so that it wedges in-between the lower teeth on the engine to the upper teeth on the clutch basket. (the force wants to compress the wood bar).

I figured with wood, less chance of damaging anything metal. Just another way of doing it.

-Dave

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Re: compensating sprocket removal

#14

Post by FL58 » Mon Feb 16, 2015 10:44 pm

Bosheff, thank you for the rope technique but the cylinders were already disassembled from the crankcase.
Bigincher and Jr Johnson can you explain a little more what is your "jam bar" or if you have a picture, cause I don't see exactly what it is and how it works.
Thank you for your help.
Now lower engine is on my workbench ready for rebuild.
first time for me
I sure will need all your help in a while...
sincerely

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Re: compensating sprocket removal

#15

Post by Bigincher » Mon Feb 16, 2015 11:49 pm

I have a photo somewhere, but couldn't find it.

However, I was able to find this very rough 1-minute sketch I made several years ago to show an internet friend what a jam bar is and how it works.
Obviously, this only works on an assembled motorcycle with primary chain and clutch hub intact.
The 'jam bar' simply applies counter-pressure using the chain to resist the pressure applied with a breaker bar or big-ass wrench when removing the sprocket nut. It's simple geometry.
It works equally well when torqueing the nut on assembly, just reverse the position of the jam bar.
bar.jpg
However, since your motor is on the bench, there is another way--- if you have a junk primary chain, you can wrap it around the sprocket and bolt it to the work bench to secure it. You will also have to secure the motor to the workbench. Some serious creativity will be required, but if you get the idea, you can come up with something.............
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