Wheel hubs

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1964FLDUO
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Wheel hubs

#1

Post by 1964FLDUO » Mon Jan 30, 2012 1:54 am

I was replacing the gaskets and cork seals on my wheel hubs today and after reassembly they don't have any side play, but they had the proper amount before. Should I remove some shims or leave it, since measurements taken on clean parts change after new gaskets and grease make the tolerances tighter.



Bigincher
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Re: Wheel hubs

#2

Post by Bigincher » Mon Jan 30, 2012 1:56 am

The correct procedure is to set the end play before you install the cork in the star side, by adding or removing shims. Once you have .003 to .005 play, take the star cover back off and add the cork seal.
The reason for that is just as you describe-- the cork will 'mask' the end play.

Bigincher
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Re: Wheel hubs

#3

Post by Bigincher » Mon Jan 30, 2012 1:58 am

I should add that the end play is measured with all clean parts, no grease.
Be sure to pump a couple ounces into the hub when you're done.

1964FLDUO
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Re: Wheel hubs

#4

Post by 1964FLDUO » Mon Jan 30, 2012 2:18 am

There is no cork in the star side currently, parts are all greased now. I had the hubs rebuilt a couple months ago, but they didn't put new gaskets in ??? So I decided to do it so grease stops coming out, I was going on the assumption they had measured properly. I know the measurements should be taken while the parts are clean, but bearings shouldn't be frozen from new cork seals, and I mean you cant even turn the thrust bearing sleeve, or move it radially. Seems weird that new cork seals would change the tolerances that much. The guy who rebuilt em put .032 worth of shims. Seems excessive.

Bigincher
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Re: Wheel hubs

#5

Post by Bigincher » Mon Jan 30, 2012 2:27 am

You can still read the end play with the cork in the brake side, but it takes a little bit of effort to move the sleeve. It's the star side cork that will mask the reading. With that cork out, you should be able to feel just a bit of end play---.003 to .005 isn't much, but you'll be able to feel it. You may have so much grease in there it's masking the reading, that's my guess.
The only way to know for sure would be to take it all apart, clean it all up, and reassemble the hub. That's the only way I know for sure. (Be sure to keep the rollers separate, side for side.)
A few years ago I did a little blog on rebuilding hubs--- if your interested, here's a link. It may or may not be useful for you:

http://www.caimag.com/wordpress/2009/11 ... wheel-hub/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If you are unsure, I wouldn't assemble the hub with zero end play. Yes it's odd that the rebuilder didn't use new corks and gaskets. However, I used to diassasemble, clean, and reassemble my hubs every winter-- and used the same gaskets/corks over and over again for several years in a row before changing.

Hope this helps.

Bigincher
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Re: Wheel hubs

#6

Post by Bigincher » Mon Jan 30, 2012 2:29 am

Yes, .032" seems like a bit much. The standard starting point is .010".

Huck
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Re: Wheel hubs

#7

Post by Huck » Mon Jan 30, 2012 2:41 am

Bigincher,

you did good on the write up, I used it a while back. Also made a spacer for the axle so I could set the clearance with the axle in place.

Bigincher
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Re: Wheel hubs

#8

Post by Bigincher » Mon Jan 30, 2012 2:51 am

Thanks for the kind remark, Huck.

Been rebuilding hubs almost 40 years, it's not hard..!

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Re: Wheel hubs

#9

Post by ozwick86 » Mon Nov 20, 2017 3:35 am

This winter, I want to take my star hubs apart to clean, inspect, grease and check end play as I seem to have excessive play on both front and back on my 59.

Question I have is, I don't own a dial indicator. Can the .003-.005 final end play be checked without a dial indicator? Can I set end play by feel?

Do the inexpensive Harbor Freight Dial Indicators work for this task?


Thanks

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Re: Wheel hubs

#10

Post by Bigincher » Mon Nov 20, 2017 3:58 am

Five to seven thousandths is harder to guage by hand than you'd think. I tried it a few times, but I'm always way too loose. (Don't use the .003" - .005" specs, the Service Manual says .005" - .008" and a tad looser is better than a tad tight.)
You can pick up a cheapo dial indicator with magnetic base and adjustable arms for $30 or less. Even the HF unit will be fine.
Here's just one example:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum- ... gIUnfD_BwE

I figure that since my wheels are my life, I can spend a little bit of money to make sure they're right.
By the way, only use James corks and paper star gaskets. Anything else from anywhere else is throwing money away.

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Re: Wheel hubs

#11

Post by panhead_kicker » Tue Nov 21, 2017 12:55 am

16 shims seems like quite a bit. If they're really needed to get to spec, I'd be looking at the thrust washers and thrust bearing sleeve for excessive wear. As BigIncher says, the hubs aren't that difficult a DIY rebuild, with a minimum of tools.

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Re: Wheel hubs

#12

Post by RUBONE » Tue Nov 21, 2017 1:55 am

A big mistake many guys make rebuilding hubs is setting the end play so the sleeve is hard against the cork retaining collar and snap ring. That is not correct. The collar and snap ring only keep the parts in place but have zero to do with endplay. All endplay measurements must be done with the hub in an assembled, tightened condition. A bench vise works fine on a bare hub. For an assembled wheel with the axle and spacers tightened to specs the load is correct and endplay can be measured, anything else is a waste of time.
It sounds like your hub builder didn't have any real idea what he was doing.

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Re: Wheel hubs

#13

Post by ozwick86 » Tue Nov 21, 2017 3:02 am

I was just asking questions based on what I read posted by Bigincher on the CAIMAG site.

I haven't done anything yet. Just asking questions.

Bigincher
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Re: Wheel hubs

#14

Post by Bigincher » Tue Nov 21, 2017 3:31 am

It's pretty clear that you leave the corks out when setting end play.
Some aftermarket replacement thrust washers are several thousandths thinner than OEM, so it doesn't surprise me to see so many shims. Thicker shims are available in .007" and .015".

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Re: Wheel hubs

#15

Post by panhead_kicker » Wed Nov 22, 2017 4:29 pm

I've only ever seen .002 OEM shims. I thought all the thicker ones were aftermarket.
So maybe HD dropped the thicker shim part numbers from the late 60s catalogs?

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