In reality true replica 3.5 gallon gas tanks coming on line and they are going to be affordable.
So, here is my guide for buying a long or short block replica Pan motor:
Answer: If you buy a 74 cu. in. replica Pan motor congratulations We'll follow your purchase from crate to the open road, if you keep us informed. Please take a pic of the motor sitting still secured in the crate. We should all know how they "ship" from the warehouse.....How ready are the cases? How ready is the short block: quality?? Any help you can give me i would appreciate it: Also best place to buy said motors:/cases: Thanks again for the books:
We need more test-riders here. Another heading called Rolling Repop
One suggestion is to first buy another cam cover gasket, and when your motor arrives, bolt it to a bench stand or custom welded 4 ft. "derrick" stand. Put a strip of blue tape on the end of a 9/16" screwdriver (so you don't gall the slotted cam cover screw heads) and use the information in Vol. 2 to remove the cam cover. Watch out for falling C.B. and Idler spacers
Read, to measure the cam's end play and check for generator free-play.
You can deduce something about the mechanic that built the motor, by the time you get to the breather gear. Generally, if the mechanic did a poor job on the inside, he did a poor job on the cam chest. Reasoning that rarely would someone start out as a poor mechanic and then miraculously change to a good mechanic before the motor is finished.
2. Buy an oil pump gasket kit w/ a new drive gear retaining ring. Pull the pinion gear and free-spin the oil pump. If you can't turn the oil pump drive gear with your thumb or easily with the tip of a small screwdriver, then there's gear bind within the pump and you'll need to remove the pump to see, if re-installing it will allow the gears to unbind and free-spin as illustrated.
Bottom Line: If the oil pump drive gear "free-spins" as it should, then the mechanic did a good job of installing the pump. This would be a "good sign".
3. You can go to http://www.v-twincycles.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and click on the "Find A Dealer" and enter your zip code. If your buying $300. free freight orders, they may give you a small discount, though the profit margins on these parts are not much to begin with.
Sure. And imo, you want to see the gear teeth, and pull the cam, to see what you can of everything under the cover. Measure the C.B. and Idler spacer width's. Both spacers should be the same.I wonder if removing the lifter blocks would be less invasive....
Do short blocks come with hydraulic valves? Probably. Do you want soilds? Then you need to install JIMS and use S&S push rods, imo. Check the article out over on "Repop"> Solid Lifter Options Reviewed. All laid out for you. Parts numbers, options, the works.
I was looking at those V-Twin short blocks and they have 1941 to 1965 74 in. motors w/ empty tappet blocks, giving you the option of solid or hydraulic. That's pretty good.