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brake rebuilding

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rrhawg
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brake rebuilding

#1

Post by rrhawg » Fri May 09, 2014 5:37 pm

Where is the best place to send brake drums for new shoes, linings. I have a pair from a V for the Cannonball ride I want to send away,have done and shipped back



Bigincher
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Re: brake rebuilding

#2

Post by Bigincher » Fri May 09, 2014 6:35 pm

rrhawg wrote:Where is the best place to send brake drums for new shoes, linings. I have a pair from a V for the Cannonball ride I want to send away,have done and shipped back
I see you're on the Oregon Coast.
There's a place in Tacoma, not too far from you. Named "South Side Brake & Clutch". It's been a few years ago, but I live real close and took a couple sets of shoes/drum to them for relining of the shoes and arcing them to the drums. The guy that did mine is also a "motorcyclist", so he was hep to what I wanted. He told me he does all the guys brakes around there.....
They have a variety of material available for the lining, depends on if you want to stop fast or not have the shoes wear out. (That's an easy choice.....)
The cost was really reasonable, I think it was $30 a set, $15 a shoe, and that included the arcing. I took him bead-blasted shoes, he bonded on the new linings and even sprayed some black paint on the iron part of the shoe. I was impressed.
I suggest you call them first to see if they are still doing that work, and make arrangements for shipping, etc.

RUBONE
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Re: brake rebuilding

#3

Post by RUBONE » Fri May 09, 2014 8:02 pm

These guys do only M/C brakes and are very well respected in the vintage racing community..
http://www.vintagebrake.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

58flh
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Re: brake rebuilding

#4

Post by 58flh » Sat May 10, 2014 11:55 am

rrhawg---I always thought that vintage motorcycle riders did their own.You can order anytype of shoe matieral you want!-(even if its not for yer bike!)---Just cut it down to where it fits! ,Clamp matieral on shoe & drill the holes!,Next counterbore the holes so rivet heads just fit snug & under the friction surface.,Taper the ends 5/8s on each side is plenty --Now using a sharpie or charcoal pencil SPIN IT IN THE DRUM!--Grind away any interference. Once it spins freely -APPLY BRAKE & grind or Machine off any rubs!.--You will have to make a rivet-head peen tool--(easy just look at the ones that came out & make one from steel that can be aquashed without cracking the Rivet ofcourse.Before all this --(MACHINE DRUM so its square)-If new drum you will be better off as lateral removal will be nil.For a bonding agent before riveting use a 2-part epoxy,It has been working for me for yrs.& by the time you need new shoes again--IT comes off without much effort!--For my panhead I have been using cintered-Iron puck shoes for a 1965-GTO.Im afraid im running low on them & my next matieral will be a challenge!--CERAMIC MAYBE?--We shall see.REspecfully---RICHIE

Bigincher
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1977 FLH
1994 Fatboy

Re: brake rebuilding

#5

Post by Bigincher » Sat May 10, 2014 3:43 pm

I tried the cintered material, but I found it too hard, which reduced the stopping power. (Just my own experience)
I prefer the softer stuff that wears out fast but stops really well. Used to be made of asbestos, I don't know what it is now.....
I don't mind replacing the shoe linings more often, it's a good trade-off for better stopping power.

Mark44
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Re: brake rebuilding

#6

Post by Mark44 » Sat May 10, 2014 3:45 pm

Contact info for the shop in Tacoma that Bigincher mentioned:
South Side Brake & Clutch
3612 S. 54th St.
Tacoma, WA 98490
253 473 1433


For the place that Robbie mentioned:
Vintage Brake
15069 Lupine Lane
Sonora, CA 95370
209-533-4346
Fax: (209) 533-4346
info@vintagebrake.com
Michael "Mercury" Morse

58flh
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Re: brake rebuilding

#7

Post by 58flh » Sun May 11, 2014 12:29 pm

BigInch---If you used the cintered Iron shoes For a GTO-(1965)-I don't know what you mean by trade-off!--As they are Made from an organic matieral with 3/8s-round pucks in it!--& the pucks are of fine matieral.-They actually stopped our bikes the best ,when compared to whats out there today!.Please don't get them mixed-up with the cintered metallic shoes!,They really suck-even on cars!.If the Cintered goat shoes you used looked-like light-driedwheat color with about 12-pucks total after fitting to a bike shoe then there correct!/& They stopped producing them over 35yrs. ago!//The olny way to get them is to special order atleast 400-shoes to make it worthwhile for anybody!.-(I have found my last 4-cases in a brake & clutch manufacturing shop going out of biz.--(IN THE DUMPSTER!).So I hate to say but Im going to have to PURCHASE brake shoes for the first time for drumbrakes in over 20yrs.!--& it will cost a pretty penny to have them made!--(but Ill have plenty until I croak or whatever.)---Respectfully---Richie

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