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brake sleeve nut hydraglide

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chuck58pan
Posts: 83
Joined: Sat Oct 01, 2005 3:18 am

brake sleeve nut hydraglide

#1

Post by chuck58pan » Thu Feb 12, 2009 4:05 am

what kind of tight does the nut on the brake sleeve need? if much torque is required what can be used to hold the slotted end inside the side-cover. also in clymers(mea culppa) he states the brake stud should have a tight fit thru the bushing in the side-cover mine is way loose and the bushing looks like it would be very difficult to deal with unless it is possible to press a bushing inside the existing. when put together with the leg it seems like it would be alright. i had aheck of atime getting that brake pin stud free .including driving plastic tent pegs between the side-plate and the leg finally after reading previous post about possibleor probable rust(mksbeem i think) i used a little more force. thanks chuck



VT

Re: brake sleeve nut hydraglide

#2

Post by VT » Thu Feb 12, 2009 3:40 pm

What year are you talking about? 1958?
Front brake?
Rear brake?

chuck58pan
Posts: 83
Joined: Sat Oct 01, 2005 3:18 am

Re: brake sleeve nut hydraglide

#3

Post by chuck58pan » Thu Feb 12, 2009 6:41 pm

excuse the lack of info. i am working on a 52 hydra-glide. the torque request is for the axle-sleeve that is pushed thru the inside of the aluminum cover and exits the axle boss on the leg. (front fork) the axle gets tightened on top of this set-up. my interest was if it is incorrect to crank this :"sleeve-nut" too tightly. The second part of my Q was in regards to the {brake pivot stud and how close tolerance that should have thru the aluminum cover. it appears to be bushed (blind) the outside has a lip that would prevent driving the bushing thru . the shank on the pivot stud is sloppy within that hole . it doesnt turn on the bushing i dont see that it would be loose from wear . In the event re-bushing is needed I am wondering if it could worked-out from the outside with drifts .

VT

Re: brake sleeve nut hydraglide

#4

Post by VT » Thu Feb 12, 2009 7:27 pm

Tightern the axle sleeve nut on the front (left) slider with a 10" Cresent wrench. Securely tight, but not as hard as you can.
The brake pivot stud should be a snug to lightly driven fit into the hole in the (left) slider. That screwdriver slot is not much of anything except to keep the stud from turning (if the stud is a loose fit) Since the stud isn't cam shaped, turning it will have no effect on brake shoe adjustment. It's just a stud for the end of the shoes to pivot on. There's stuff in Vol. 2 about it, which covers the repop covers that aren't always, if ever, exact.

Your bushing-ed side cover is not stock. Post a pic so we can have a look at it.

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