Brake Shoes

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steve_wood
Posts: 947
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2008 12:32 am
Bikes: 56 FLH, 2007 FLHRCI
Location: Belleville, Ontario, Canada

Brake Shoes

#1

Post by steve_wood » Tue Jul 05, 2011 1:26 am

Okay, so my front brake (drum) really isn't effective. I shaped the shoes to the drum using the sandpaper-stuck-to-the-drum trick. It worked quite well; the shoes shaped nicely. I installed them and got them centered, but they really don't stop the bike very well. I know they are centered because after just a few uses, when I took the assembly apart (again), I could see that the wear on the shoes was 98% of the surface area on both shoes.

So, conclusion: The shoes are properly shaped to the drum, and they were centered within the drum.

The brake shoes actually looked a little bit glazed. Again, this was after only a little bit of use.

Could it be that the shoes are too hard?

Anybody know where to get a set of shoes that work properly?

Anybody know where to get the rivet tool required to change them?

Any other suggestions?



108
Posts: 179
Joined: Sun Aug 06, 2006 8:12 pm
Bikes: 1948 FL 74in Panhead Chopper , 1958 Zundapp Citation 500
Location: Indianapolis

Re: Brake Shoes

#2

Post by 108 » Wed Jul 06, 2011 3:32 am

I do a lot of work on old cars and the the most common cause I find for weak drum brakes is drums that have been resurfaced too rough, and shoe radius that dosent match the drum(which you have corrected). Two other likely causes in your case may be the sand paper you used was too course, a/o, the drum surface isnt straight. Even though the drum may be rubbing all the way around the shoe, if the surfaces are too course, only the tops of the the drum and shoe surface "ridges" are touching and your actual contact might only be 30-40% Your only fix would be to make the surfaces smoother, or wait for it to wear in.

58flh
Posts: 3338
Joined: Sat Jun 26, 2010 1:54 pm
Bikes: 1958flh 1969sporty,had a knuckle but sold back to original owner
Location: NEW JERSEY

Re: Brake Shoes

#3

Post by 58flh » Wed Jul 06, 2011 3:31 pm

check your play at the handle---if its to much adj. it down a little,adout a quarter to half is acceptable-depending what kind of cable you have!. J&P Cycles from Iowa have your shoes ready to go, no riveting involved.(VERY-CHEAP) $32 2day delivery. Ofcoarse then you file them to shape.What I do is put the new shoes on bolt up the wheel tighten the nut & spin-her a few revolutions.Take it all apart and filedown scuffmarks if you have any? If not did you apply your brake while spinning the tire? Ofcourse you did youve been down this road before!!! (sucks dont it ). A ? for you are you running a new 1 piece cable or the good kind 2 ofcoarse. I know guys who dont have the bucks to buy 2 piece cable--- They have to remove the wheel & spin the cam by hand with a little help from a simple homemade shim! Then slip the wheel back on & take-up the slack-if the wheel fits a little tite over the shoes rite at the cableclamp. Pull hard with visegrips & tighten the bolt quick. Now check brake it will stop when you spin the tire! Now take apart & file the score marks always 45 at the ends of the shoes about a half inch up. Put it back on & take her for a run & use that front brake--- big difference. Thats why I always get the 2 piece original, it takes all that ADJ. nonsense away!.(GOOD-LUCK) 58flh P.S. I olny went through 1 of the good cables in 14yrs. & me & the wife ride alot!

Pomike
Posts: 243
Joined: Thu Jul 03, 2008 5:54 pm

Re: Brake Shoes

#4

Post by Pomike » Wed Jul 06, 2011 6:48 pm

Mike at Vintage Brake would be someone to contact. He did my front setup on my '65 FLH, and it works swell. Especially for a big heavy hog. I think he uses Ferrodo linings.
Mike

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