Rear juice brake assembly

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kehughes
Posts: 342
Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2011 3:09 pm
Bikes: "50 FL Panhead, '47 WL, '57 165cc
Location: Georgia

Rear juice brake assembly

#1

Post by kehughes » Thu Aug 11, 2011 4:40 pm

I have never messed with rear juice brakes on panheads. Ive been trying to pull the plate('63 bendix style) off to get into the drum, but I cant get it off. Just wanted to make sure I had everything unbolted/disconnected that needed to be. The rear axle with its spacers have been removed. Im not really sure what the two little square cap type things are on each side of the plate. Do they need to be removed and if so how? Also the wheel was on a frame when I bought this and it would not roll, so the brakes could be locked up. I got the plate to move a little but won't come all the way off, maybe moved about 1/4 inch. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.



Cotten
Posts: 6911
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 9:09 am
Location: Central Illinois

Re: Rear juice brake assembly

#2

Post by Cotten » Thu Aug 11, 2011 5:03 pm

kehughes!

First remove the lug bolts, then the wheel, then the drum.
The backing plate is then attached to the swingarm by the anchor stud nut, and the large nut upon the sleeve that goes through the plate.

The square thingys are the shoe adjustors.

Got a Service Manual?

....Cotten
PS: Beware of asbestos.

duoglide58
Posts: 117
Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2007 7:08 pm
Location: Oklahoma City

Re: Rear juice brake assembly

#3

Post by duoglide58 » Fri Aug 12, 2011 7:20 am

A bit more detail on the square adjusters that Cotten mentioned. They are cams that as you turn them they will move the shoe against the drum. I don't recall which direction is required to adjust them to loosen the shoe, but you should be able to tell if it is getting tighter as you rotate the cam.
Is this an old rusty shoe setup? Penetrating oil may help. Often on locked up brakes the wheel cylinder seals have leaked and and corroded up the pistons where they will not retract. Removing the bolts on the wheel cylinder may provide more play for the shoes to retract. Don't be afraid to beat on the drum with a soft mallet to help loosen it up.
Doug

jellero
Ex-member
Posts: 134
Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 1:25 pm

Re: Rear juice brake assembly

#4

Post by jellero » Sat Aug 13, 2011 1:53 am

if you tried to remove the square adjusters you may have tightened up the shoes making it impossible to pull it apart. i messed with mine for years. that was the worst project. just replace the slave, don't try to save with a rebuild kit. save yourself a few years of agony. i'd put a kit in and find out much later it was leaking destroying the shoes. did that twice replacing the shoes each time before i wised up and got a new slave. i can feel a groove with my finger where the little piston and seal traveled, worn just enough to leak a tiny bit of fluid every time i hit the brake. good luck. j

kehughes
Posts: 342
Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2011 3:09 pm
Bikes: "50 FL Panhead, '47 WL, '57 165cc
Location: Georgia

Re: Rear juice brake assembly

#5

Post by kehughes » Sat Aug 13, 2011 9:41 pm

The only manual I have is up to 57(mechanical brakes). The wheel is off the bike, but the drum is still attached. I think I will remove it. And yes I did mess with the adjusters, so I guess I need to ensure theyre not adjusted to tighten the brakes. I'll try again. Thanks for everyone's help.

jellero
Ex-member
Posts: 134
Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 1:25 pm

Re: Rear juice brake assembly

#6

Post by jellero » Sun Aug 14, 2011 3:05 am

i think you turn them in to loosen, like put a wrench on and pull towards the middle. i had so much crap in mine i had the same problem. it actually helps to have the drum on the wheel i think so you have more to hold on to. i don't think my adjusters even work anymore. the front welded itself up with the stainless steel/ aluminum combo. j

kehughes
Posts: 342
Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2011 3:09 pm
Bikes: "50 FL Panhead, '47 WL, '57 165cc
Location: Georgia

Re: Rear juice brake assembly

#7

Post by kehughes » Sun Aug 14, 2011 4:42 pm

I got it removed! Now that I see it, pretty simple. The long spring to pull the shoes back in is shot and the one of the shoes had managed to somehow get wedged behind the lip/raised area of the plate holding it tight to the drum. Had to pry a little at a time around and around. Eventually worked it out. Thanks again for everyone's help. This site is great!

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