1958 FLH front brake cable, brass fitting pulled off the cable at the brake lever

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Kbenardino
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1958 FLH front brake cable, brass fitting pulled off the cable at the brake lever

#1

Post by Kbenardino » Tue Feb 28, 2012 6:17 pm

Help anyone ... I am in the process of getting a '58 back on the road. After studying all of your suggestions about getting an old panhead started a miracle happened and she came to life. So I took her down the drive into the street. When I grabbed the front brake it let go. That is the brass fitting pulled off the cable at the brake lever. My first thought was simply solder it back together. Then I thought I would check here first. Any suggestions?



1950Panhead
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Re: 1958 FLH front brake cable

#2

Post by 1950Panhead » Tue Feb 28, 2012 11:17 pm

Buy a new cable, solder is nowhere strong enough.
Jerry

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Re: 1958 FLH front brake cable

#3

Post by 66 Shovel-Pan » Wed Feb 29, 2012 1:46 am

OR, if the brake cable is good other than that, you could take it to a bike shop and have them swedge on a new end. As Jerry say Do Not try to get away with solder. You'll just pull it apart a the very second you need it the most.

rozemab
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Re: 1958 FLH front brake cable

#4

Post by rozemab » Wed Feb 29, 2012 1:58 am

Do you know how to accelerate a panhead? Simply apply the front brake!

The front brake on my '58 is a joke. Any suggestions to improve it?

Cotten
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Re: 1958 FLH front brake cable

#5

Post by Cotten » Wed Feb 29, 2012 2:34 am

Folks,

They were successfully soldered in the first place.
But it was in a 'solder pot', by somebody who knew how to do it.

Probably just more lost technology, but somebody please Google it, because I'm curious how they did it too.

....Cotten

FlatHeadSix
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Re: 1958 FLH front brake cable

#6

Post by FlatHeadSix » Wed Feb 29, 2012 3:05 am

ancient secret: MAPP Gas torch and Silver Solder.

clean the lug, clean the cable, heat it up GOOD, "tin" the cable first, stick it in the ferrule, heat it again and let the silver solder suck into the spaces between the cable and the lug. Works as good as any OEM if ya do it right.

mike

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Re: 1958 FLH front brake cable

#7

Post by RUBONE » Wed Feb 29, 2012 3:46 am

I have built many hundreds of cables. Part of the trick is to bore a bevel on the barrel, and then swage the cable end before soldering. This allows the soldered cable to create a larger surface than can be pulled through the hole of the barrel!
Robbie

Kbenardino
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Re: 1958 FLH front brake cable

#8

Post by Kbenardino » Fri Mar 02, 2012 2:59 pm

Thanks for all the great suggestions! I appreciate the fact that while 'old brakes' are just that getting to work as well as possible is important. First I will try to repair and then give her hell. If it doesn't hold then new it would be. With this in mind I would want to find an OEM part keeping the bike as original as possible. Any suggestions for a supplier?
Thanks again,
Ken B.

1950Panhead
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Re: 1958 FLH front brake cable

#9

Post by 1950Panhead » Fri Mar 02, 2012 5:30 pm

Use the inner from a new cable, keep your outer.
Jerry

Cotten
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Re: 1958 FLH front brake cable

#10

Post by Cotten » Fri Mar 02, 2012 8:47 pm

A note on silver-soldering cables:

The heat required for high-tensile silver solders can embrittle the cable next to it, right where flexibility is needed most.

The solution is to silver solder only the opposite end of the barrel, and not fill it entirely.

....Cotten

JOHNSON
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Re: 1958 FLH front brake cable

#11

Post by JOHNSON » Fri Mar 02, 2012 11:28 pm

in the day,use to buy sportster inner clutch cable,cut to length..........johnson

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Re: 1958 FLH front brake cable

#12

Post by 58flh » Sat Mar 03, 2012 3:59 pm

Remember if you choose to solder it yourself(practice on a crap-set first!)--If you buy a new cable, remember she will stretch!---so after a week of steady applying, pull the wheeloff & loosen the cableclamp on inside just enuff to pull the cable. ON the very bottom lock on a pair of visegrips(assuming this is where the soldered ferrule is beat!-& pull down hard until you see the shoes start to apply.NOW retighten both ends of clamp,slide your wheel over ,put axel thru,make sure all is lined-up.(now have the wife apply the brake & tighten the axel & 4-bolts on bottom while holding the brake all the while. GET on it & roll it & see how the front feels!--is it better ,got some grab?-Ofcoarse im assuming you have decent shoes to begin with! & have been arced to the drum. YOU should only have to squeeze a 1/4 to a 1/2 & no more for a decent front drumbrake grab!. Any more, do the same steps over & pull down on the grips harder,before you tighten the cableclamps again!---now if its good you can solder a sixteenth before that area(use proper steel ferrule & follow directions as said earlier. IF your problem is at the pull-lever itself,-I have fabbed ferrules in different lenths that will slip over the cable just for this purpose!--ALSO if new ,the stretch must be out of the cable !----IF you need a pic. I will be happy to supply.-----RICHIE 8)

Cotten
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Re: 1958 FLH front brake cable

#13

Post by Cotten » Sat Mar 03, 2012 6:35 pm

Another note:

The free end of cables tend to fray unless flame-cut as shown here, along with the butt-end-of-the-barrel-only soldering method I mentioned earlier.

The insurance industry probably put an end to low-temp solder pots. But it would be easy to convert a common bullet mold to work.

...Cotten
PS: The cable in my photo is an important everyday tool in my business. The barrel is just shy of 3/16", and the cable is 2mm surgical stainless. Can anybody guess its use?
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Re: 1958 FLH front brake cable

#14

Post by panhead_kicker » Sun Mar 04, 2012 3:00 am

Cotten wrote:Can anybody guess its use?
Dumpster fishing line?

Cotten
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Re: 1958 FLH front brake cable

#15

Post by Cotten » Sun Mar 04, 2012 3:04 am

P_K!

Dumpsters were my hobby (before the Great Recession), not my business.

Strike one.

....Cotten
PS: When makeing up cables, too much clearance between the cable and sheath can be as much of a problem as too little.

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