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inline fuel shutoff valve

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62wild1
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inline fuel shutoff valve

#1

Post by 62wild1 » Sun Jul 12, 2009 1:14 am

Anyone know of a good small fuel shutoff valve that I can put inline to stop my fuel leak? I can't seem to keep the tank from draining a little all night and it's making a mess. I figure there must be a fuel proof valve that will fit on the hard line from the tank to the carb. I put in a Cotten float and have adjusted it past the 1/4 and still leaking at the carb. I figure just shutting off the fuel will be the safest solution.



LittleAl
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Re: inline fuel shutoff valve

#2

Post by LittleAl » Sun Jul 12, 2009 1:24 am

these are really, really small. maybe 1/2 by 1/2 by 1 1/4 come in different hose sizes and available at any snowmobile or rice burner or dirt bike shop for about $12. I used them to install fuel cells on my touring bikes. I've used all 3, the one with the red lever is the easiest to use, the red knob one is the smallest.
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62wild1
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Re: inline fuel shutoff valve

#3

Post by 62wild1 » Sun Jul 12, 2009 1:33 am

Excellent! I'll hit the shops Monday and see what I can find. Thanks!

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Re: inline fuel shutoff valve

#4

Post by mbskeam » Sun Jul 12, 2009 1:34 am

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FlatHeadSix
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Re: inline fuel shutoff valve

#5

Post by FlatHeadSix » Sun Jul 12, 2009 3:49 am

Wild1
A shut off valve is good but its just a "band-aid", if the needle & seat in your carb is leaking you should fix it! Trust me, FIX THE CARB!, you won't be sorry. If the float will not shut the fuel off when the bowl is full you will never be able to properly tune the carb and the bike will NEVER run the way it should.

Cotten?, NightShift?, help the boy out here, tell him what he needs to do.
jmho,
mike

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Re: inline fuel shutoff valve

#6

Post by steve_wood » Sun Jul 12, 2009 12:20 pm

The valve at the gas tank should be fixed too. I'm assuming it's the stock "thru-tank" type? I bought a reproduction from V-Twin believe it or not and it worked perfectly.... Maybe I got lucky?

steve

62wild1
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Re: inline fuel shutoff valve

#7

Post by 62wild1 » Sun Jul 12, 2009 2:46 pm

I'd like to fix the tank shutoff but from what I've read there isn't a quality replacement that will work any better. If I pull the line off the carb and check for leaks it drips slow but enough in combination with the carb to run down the motor. I checked the needle and it doesn't appear to be worn but I'm not an expert. I did contact Cotten but he was busy at the time and I wanted to get it running. I'll check back at the end of the season and see if he can take a look at the carb. It only leaks after setting for a bit after shutdown, not excessive but enough to stink up the garage and leave things damp. She does seem to run fine but I did notice the front cyl runs richer than the rear by looking at the plugs. Maybe due to valve adj but not sure, my first pan. Only 1 more oil leak to fix I hope. Looks to be the base gasket front cyl so I guess a retorque will be in order unless it is a major problem. Other than that it's been a challenge but I'm learning and can tear it down in my sleep now.

Can you buy just a (quality) needle and seat anywhere?

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Re: inline fuel shutoff valve

#8

Post by FlatHeadSix » Sun Jul 12, 2009 3:07 pm

Wild1
Needle and seat replacements are available from just about all the usual vendors.
Stay away from the rubber (Viton) tipped needles, get an all steel needle. I seem to have better luck with plain steel, the stainless needles are usually too hard and do not seat as well.

mike

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Re: inline fuel shutoff valve

#9

Post by john HD » Sun Jul 12, 2009 3:17 pm

62,

couple of items,

the life of the needle and seat can be extended by following the advice in the shop manual. use cigarette ashes and water to make a extra fine lapping compound. lap the needle into the seat, clean and retest by sucking on the fuel inlet and see if it hold a vaccum. (really! that is what it sez to do!) do not waste your time with rubber tipped needles as they do not last with today's fuels.

there are replacement needle/seat sets available, might try nos parts or your non fern bar harley dealer.

as for the shut off rod the repros suck unless someone is making ones that work. they leak out of the box and are the wrong size. about an inch too long!

you can attempt to repair yours by removing the fuel rod, then heating the threaded section to loosen the solder holding it in place. once hot you can tap the threaded section up. when the threaded section is raised you can use fine lapping compound to renew the seat surface. again, lap-clean-repeat until a gas tight seal is made.

once you are happy with the seal you can reheat the threaded section and tap back into place. a dot of solder will hold it.

if the tip of your rod is really rough you can tin the end of it with solder to give you a new surface to work with.

all three of these methods worked for me and created a drip free fuel system without junk repro parts or an extra valve to deal with.

john

62wild1
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Re: inline fuel shutoff valve

#10

Post by 62wild1 » Sun Jul 12, 2009 3:37 pm

Hmmm, Interesting. I'll check with Kick Start tomorrow and see what kind of needles he has as he is close to me. Otherwise I'll have to start smoking again, I just quit but have a hankering. Tank shutoff will have to wait till I feel like spending quality time as it seems everything I have touched lately should have been left alone if you know what I mean.

Thanks for all the input and ideas. I should hopefully be able to rectify this pesky bugger, I'm seeing carbs in my sleep.

62wild1
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Re: inline fuel shutoff valve

#11

Post by 62wild1 » Mon Jul 13, 2009 6:56 pm

mbskeam

Where did you purchase your shut off valve?

I have been to 6 places so far and they have nothing or next to nothing.

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Re: inline fuel shutoff valve

#12

Post by mbskeam » Mon Jul 13, 2009 8:53 pm

I got it at the hardware store,
5/16 is the size
this has been on my bike for a long time.
I get the small drip if its not closed, but when it is closed it stops all the drip action

this works for me....

62wild1
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Re: inline fuel shutoff valve

#13

Post by 62wild1 » Tue Jul 14, 2009 1:55 am

Well I finally found a 1/4 valve (in and out) like the one you have. I was on the road from 10 am to 3 pm and also made a bunch of phone calls. Started out with the same valve but had to add the compression fittings that made it 10' long so I kept looking and finally found the last one on the shelf at the Tractor Supply Company which was the last place I was going to look, go figure, only 3 miles from home. Put her in and no more drips, it's a sign. When I get some riding in I'll tackle the tank shutoff and see if I can correct it.


I started out at all the bike dealers looking for the mini shut offs but with the economy here they don't stock anything anymore. Then I hit every hardware and plumbing supply with no luck. After I decided to look for a washer I took a stroll to the tractor section at TSC and darn near had a heart attack. I shouted YES! and everybody started looking at me. If they only knew.

I did the cig ash thing to the needle and seat and I can't suck any air so that must be good. Now I can drink beer and not sit in fumes anymore. All I have to do now is drink more beer and put the carb back together and see if tightening the cyl base nuts stop the oil seep around the breaker assmbly. I could turn them with 1 finger and a wrench. Hopefully the gasket is still good. I only rode it about 10 mile under 45 mph.

Thanks all for all the input, more to follow...............................beeeeer

62wild1
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Re: inline fuel shutoff valve

#14

Post by 62wild1 » Tue Jul 14, 2009 12:31 pm

Well I stopped the fuel leak and the oil leak but now when I start it she starts popping out the carb when I rev it. Looks like the carb is coming off again to check the float setting and maybe even the timing.........................stop the insanity!

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Re: inline fuel shutoff valve

#15

Post by Cotten » Tue Jul 14, 2009 1:17 pm

FlatHeadSix wrote:Wild1
A shut off valve is good but its just a "band-aid", if the needle & seat in your carb is leaking you should fix it! Trust me, FIX THE CARB!, you won't be sorry. If the float will not shut the fuel off when the bowl is full you will never be able to properly tune the carb and the bike will NEVER run the way it should.

Cotten?, NightShift?, help the boy out here, tell him what he needs to do.
jmho,
mike
Sorry I wasn't paying attention, but,..

Gosh, Mike,

I don't think there was ever a carb floatvalve made that was intended to keep a carb dry all night!
After all, they are made to operate "open".

Of course a frequent drip is a safety hazard as well as a nuisance, but the petcock is still the "shut-off".

I never cut or lap floatvalves anymore. If a rap with a screwdriver doesn't "set" the needle to its seat, I replace it.

....Cotten

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