Speedometer Bezel tool??

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Posts: 103
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Speedometer Bezel tool??


Post by mogman » Sun Sep 16, 2007 6:08 pm

Is there a tool to work the bazel on a harley speedo? I have some minor issues with my Panhead speedo but can not aford $500 and up to get it fixed Mine has been apart cuz the bazel looks like it was crimped with wire cutters from the back only the front of the bazel looks fine.

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Speedo Bezel Tool...


Post by captainharley » Sun Sep 16, 2007 11:32 pm

Years ago I repared a few original speedo's. To remove the bezels I used a good quality steel straight edge screwdriver. Slowly I pried the grimp up from around the back side until I could pop off the bezel or rim. I carefully regrimped with either small vicegrip or lockjaw pliers. Old time
speedo shops probably do have special tools for this but I have never seen one. Anymore if a speedometer breaks I just get a repop one.
Good luck! AMF/Ride Safe

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Post by Cotten » Mon Sep 17, 2007 12:40 am

Nowadays I rely on a pro,

but back when I didn't know better, I ground cheap tire plug insertion hooks into a hooked blade that would skim under the bevel and allow leverage to pry it slowly upward, edging along like a can opener by pressing the heel of the blade against the shell.


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Speedometer Bezel tool??


Post by mogman » Mon Sep 17, 2007 2:18 am

Thanks guys!!!

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Post by FlatHeadSix » Mon Sep 17, 2007 5:21 pm

I've opened a bunch of SW speedos using a slightly modified paint can opener, they have a loop handle and a sort of 90 degree crow's foot bend at the bottom. Years ago the hardware store used to give them away when you bought paint, now you have to pay for them but they're still pretty cheap. You can file the "foot" so its a little thinner and shorter in the "L" section, then just work it under the bezel lip and walk it around like Cotten described. If you do it slowly and carefully you can straighten the edge without creasing it.

Another cheap but essential tool for working on the old speedo is a block of wood with a circular hole recessed into it to hold the unit while you work on it. The wood block is even more important when you are trying to crimp the bezel back on, extra important if you're working on one of the old ones with domed glass. I also use an old hammer handle with an arch shaved on one end the same radius as the bezel. Be patient, work slowly, a little bit at a time, and you can "press" the bezel back on so it looks almost factory sealed.

gook luck!


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