Hub bearings clearance / cages to races

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Halc

Hub bearings clearance / cages to races

#1

Post by Halc » Fri Feb 20, 2004 7:16 pm

Hello folks

I was rebuilding the rear wheel on my 56 FLH last night, and after putting the guts back in the hub, notice that the bearings are nearly impossible to turn by hand with the new cork seals in place.
The problem is not in running clearance bearings/cages to races, nor in end-play. I'm afraid that the wheel will turn on the axle spacers rather than the bearings.

Any ideas? No worries? It has been years since I last did this, but do not remember the rascals putting up this much of a fight.

Thanks in advance



VintageTwin
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Re: Hub bearings

#2

Post by VintageTwin » Fri Feb 20, 2004 8:12 pm

Did you estimate free-turn of the bearing sleeve (with at least two star screws holding the outer cover on) without the small cork washer installed, before you installed the small cork and found the sleeve wouldn't turn?

Halc

Re: Hub bearings

#3

Post by Halc » Fri Feb 20, 2004 9:20 pm

Thanks for the reply VT!

Yes, isn't that how you set end-play? What I did was mic the inner bearing runs of the spacer and outer runs of the hub, then fit appropriate sized bearings with cages, dry. I then assembled the collar, inner and outer star with gasket and measured the end-play for shims.

Then I disassembled the lot, liberally lubed it all with bearing grease, but this time with the shims and corks installed.

The corks were a bitch to fit - the snap rings took about 15 minutes a side to get in.

I'll be damned if I can see anything wrong, except I fit the corks in dry with just a light coat of grease on the sleeve.

dereborn
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Re: Hub bearings

#4

Post by dereborn » Sat Feb 21, 2004 10:28 pm

Had the same experience last spring, and was told by old, scarred rider that "it's the corks that need to be shaped in place".
When the wheel was assembled I of course checked that what you described wasn't the case, it turned on the bearings but wasn't exactly "free-wheelin'"...

I mounted it all, rolled around the back yard a few times, and slowly got out on the road, carefully listening and worrying all the time the first miles.

Nothing bad happened, worked like a charm, tight and easy rolling hubs!

Good luck!

Mike MOS Saunders

Re: Hub bearings

#5

Post by Mike MOS Saunders » Mon Feb 23, 2004 5:53 pm

I was that someone specializes in installing taper roller bearings and races in the Old Star Hub to replace the old style bearings. Does anyone know who this may be? I would like to know more about this adaptation and who to contact about getting it done.
Mike Saunders
email saundersmike@sbcglobal.net

VintageTwin
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Re: Hub bearings

#6

Post by VintageTwin » Thu Sep 23, 2004 7:43 pm

Halc- Can you turn the (long) bearing sleeve by hand with just the rollers you sized in place?

Saunders- It's HeadHog Sullivan http://www.headhog.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

DanM
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Re: Hub bearings

#7

Post by DanM » Fri Sep 24, 2004 12:13 pm

I had my Star Hubs updated to timken bearings by Jim Harvey at 760-364-2397 http://www.starhubpros.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.

He modifies the inside of the hub to take a tapered bearing outer race, and makes a sleeve to fit between the bearings to set end play. Stock axles, no physical appearance from out side. $90.00 each- less than the parts to do a hub. I have 1500 miles on my with no issues.

Dan

VintageTwin
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Re: Hub bearings

#8

Post by VintageTwin » Fri Sep 24, 2004 1:00 pm

Saunders- Ah-huylk!! HeadHog Sullivan does Pan head seats. Sorry. Wrong mechanic, wrong problem. :o

Mike

Re: Hub bearings

#9

Post by Mike » Sat Sep 25, 2004 10:34 pm

Thanks for the reference to the hub fixer-I been sitting on a pile of these.
Years ago SuperCycle magazine had a good article showing how to do this but I lost it and have never been able to find another.

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