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Replacing outer throttle cable housing

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Posts: 664
Joined: Fri May 20, 2005 7:29 pm
Location: Wasilla, Alaska

Replacing outer throttle cable housing


Post by 51Hog » Mon Mar 31, 2008 4:30 am

I spent the day yesterday trying to remove the pin from the plunger inside the throttle handle assembly. The pin is frozen solid--Vice grips on the pin with and without heat, with penetrating oil. Tried tapping with a hammer to jar it a little. No luck. All of that abuse on the pin and it did not get damaged. No problem getting the two rollers back on it.
Took the bars off, took out the set screw and slid the cable housing to the center of the bars. Too large to come out the hole in the center.
The old housing had the deteriorated cloth housing still on it. I taped up the outside of the old housing to semi waterproof it, cleaned it out with penetrating oil and put everything back where it went. I picked up a new inner cable from JP-cycles part number 5200318. (This cable is not very hard like the one I took out.)
I used a little lithium CV joint white grease on the cable when it went back together. For the first time in years, the butterfly opens and closes all the way.
Any tips on getting the stuck pin out of the plunger?

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Post by FlatHeadSix » Mon Mar 31, 2008 5:55 am

It sounds like you've already tried all the standard tricks. As you have found out, the pins are harder than woodpecker lips. One thing you might try is heating the plunger while trying not to heat the pin. I got one out by heating the plunger and then carefully dripping ice water on just the pin, then immediately grabbing the pin with a vice grip.

the best penetrating oil I've ever found is a product called "PB Blaster", it gets into places that nothing else will.

good luck!


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Post by 51Hog » Mon Mar 31, 2008 6:08 am

Woodpecker lips?? LOL LOL
That gave me a good gut laugh!!!
First time I heard that one.
PB is the penetrating oil that I like also.
I will give cooling off the pin a try. Maybe with a piece of ice.
Hopefully it will shrink enough.
I am afraid to put too much heat to the plunger, I don't want to soften the handlebar slide slot.

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Post by john HD » Mon Mar 31, 2008 10:09 am

might try heating the assembly and then melting candle wax into it. i was able to salvage a frozen fuel strainer this way.

appearently when the part is hot the wax works its way into all the crevises and lubricates the part when it cools off.

i agree PB blaster is one of the best penetrants around, just keep at it and it will work loose eventually.


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Post by 51Hog » Mon Mar 31, 2008 7:23 pm

Never heard of the wax trick. I will try it on the advance which is also seized. Also on the throttle side if all else fails.

A street
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throttle assembly


Post by A street » Tue Apr 01, 2008 1:08 am

One tecnique that's worked well for me over the years is a variation on the standard heat ideas but instead of just heating the outside part of 'whatever it is' so that only 'it' expands [basically impossible on small or confined items], heat the whole 'whatever it is' to whatever heat is reasonable [almost never red hot] for the material and job and then cool whatever joint interface you are working on with the penetrant of your chioce. Hot DW 40 is the smell of progress to me. Flame on contact expected. Cool completely. Repeat as neccessary. Think small here. The capillary action of the penetrant being sucked in as the metal cools and shrinks is the key. It doesn't take as much heat as most people believe to expand metal. I think that if both pieces expand, they crush whatever rust, goop, or oxidized junk is stuck in the joint. Then the penetrant has a place to go when the metal cools. You can sometimes cool parts of whatever you're working on that you don't want hot with rags and water. On really big projects like frozen winches etc. a good tap or six with the four pound helps when the pieces are both hot and cold. Be smart where and why you hit and where you back up the blows. You want to shake things up though. It's worked for me on everything from really big to really little scale for 30 years.

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