Neck lock

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PanPal
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Neck lock

#1

Post by PanPal » Thu Jun 24, 2004 7:18 pm

Description: When these pans came from the factory, were the neck lock and ignition switch a matched set

I am thinking about getting locksmith to make up a key for my steering lock. I've heard that these old neck locks can work their way out while you are riding, and sometimes it's better not to fool with them. I have a later year ignition switch with the correct style cover on it. When these pans came from the factory, were the neck lock and ignition switch a matched set?



Cotten
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Re: Neck lock

#2

Post by Cotten » Fri Jun 25, 2004 2:49 am

I've never heard of a necklock "working out".
If you can read the keycode off of the core, it can be re-keyed without removal.
Good question about the 'keyed-alike' switch and forklock. My NOS '65 frame came with keys wired to it.

Billy
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Re: Neck lock

#3

Post by Billy » Fri Jun 25, 2004 5:06 am

Briggs & Stratton was involved in HD locks for some time. The Trunk lid on my Servi has a NOS keyed lock in it & it's from B&S, but not the ignition. But that may or may not be original.

weezeo
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Re: Neck lock

#4

Post by weezeo » Fri Jun 25, 2004 6:59 am

I had an ignition key made for my 66 and they used the #'s off the key insert. It also was a Briggs and Stratton blank. I never tried the neck lock, might be a good idea to check it out. If and when I do I'll post it, But I can't at the present time.

PanPal
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Re: Neck lock

#5

Post by PanPal » Fri Jun 25, 2004 9:37 pm

The one key I had was a B&S also. I did get correct blank keys from a web site I found that were a great match. The local locksmith even stamped them the same. My buddy has a box of old Harley keys. He says I should come over and try one after another and see if I can get one that works. When I told the locksmith this, he started to look up the one I have and said there were 1000 made that year. May be I'll get lucky.

shaker
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Re: Neck lock

#6

Post by shaker » Mon Jun 28, 2004 4:49 am

I had a key made for my 49 neck lock from the b&s code on the lock ,the smith will have to have the old code book , the key for my neck lock and mil spec jeep's from the 40's were the same cut. if you have a old mil surplus around might find yourself a b&s key.

VintageTwin
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Re: Neck lock

#7

Post by VintageTwin » Tue Jun 29, 2004 1:16 am

Anyone ever install a 48150-30 lock assembly into a '54-57 rigid frame? There are three pieces ; a lock assembly, a plunger (48152-30), and a (48153-30) spring. The roll-pin hole is at about 1 o'clock on the frame boss. There is no hole in the V-Twin frame. Putting one there would necessitate using a long bit, but still the pin hole is (c/l ) 3/8" inboard from the end of the boss, so the hole is under the eave of a casted rib. You can't get there from here. Not without an angle attachment chuck and they're too bulk to fit in the space allowed. Could you install the tumbler casing 180 degrees from OE and have better drill access? Not much. The point of drilling on the bottom side of the boss, is still eclipsed by a casted rib. Any help would be builder. I'll post the process in pics. Mucho obrigado.

There is a fix. The info-donor remains anonymous. I'll wear-test the lock assembly first. I like the idea of a fork lock deterrent. V-Twin has them in stock (37-9021).

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi Kirk
Sorry for not getting back to you sooner. I have more things to do every day than I can possibly do. I have the info on the pin installation but want to send two photos and save two thousand words. I will take the photos later today and send them.
Don

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It isn't has hard as it looks. A 3/32" diameter high speed jobbers length drill will work if your electric drill has a small diameter chuck. Otherwise you need a taper length drill. The hole is 13/32" from the end of the boss. A drill jig makes it easy but isn't necessary. Drill the hole in the boss without the lock in place then insert the lock in the correct position and drill a shallow hole in the outer cylinder. Be careful not to go too deep or you will damage the lock. If you already have the plunger and spring in place you don't need to take the lock back out. Just tap the pin in and go for lunch.
Good luck.
Don
------------------------------------------------------
Oh yeah. Now I get it! First you drill the hole in the boss. The cylinder has a hole drilled in it, that you can push it straight inward into the (AM) frame boss to meet with the hole you drilled in the boss. The kit comes with two roll pins (allright!...they send you an extra roll pin. Cool) hidden under the metal freeze-plug, a spring , and plunger. Down load the instructions above, that John White sent over, they don't come with the kit. This is just great. One big obstacle out of the way. done before painting. Thank you. We all thank you. The casing fits into the AM frame's lock boss hole. We're moving now.
Check out the triangle-H stamp on the freeze-plug. You don't see many M/C products from Taiwan made so well....that they're so proud of, that they put their name on it. Things are coming together folks...and you can't ask for better than that. And V-Twin's dating their stock. This one produced in 12-03.

Lock fits. Nice finish on the parts (comparable in "finish" to Colony® in my opinion). Ream the drill slag from the plunger hole with a round-rat file. 1/2 & 3/4" (copper plumbing fitting) brush the frame chamber, plunger, and lock holes. Divot the boss 13/32 away from the edge. Drill the pin hole at 90 degrees with a 3/32 x 8" jobber bit MSC # 36854610, (800) 645-7270. Wire fitting-brush the slag from the hole again. Install the spring and hold it place with a popsicle stick. Load the plunger with a magetic pick-up stick. Hold the plunger with the wood stick to release the magnet-stik; load the cylinder (the cylinder has a blue-plastic protective covering over the stainless face plate. These people tried REAL hard with this part). Make sure the pin moves forward and retracts. The roll pin is too small to fit into the hole, because the pin is slit. I'm painting my frame first., taping off the i.d. of the holes. This whole thing has turned around for me. I knew nothing but fear before I started this project. i'll post pix on RePop.
Thanks Panhead.

dj

Re: Neck lock

#8

Post by dj » Sat Jul 03, 2004 6:59 pm

Thanks for the great info. Still have my neck lock intact and will attempt to get a locksmith to make a key someday.

shaker
Posts: 60
Joined: Tue Aug 09, 2005 10:23 pm
Location: down south

Re: Neck lock

#9

Post by shaker » Mon Jul 05, 2004 5:01 am

in palmers book he said the ignition switch was neutral with no code on it, the neck lock was keyed, i have seen the ones with the code on e-bay bring 20.00 or 30 $ while the ones without the code go 150.00 or more.

panoply
Posts: 15
Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2007 12:59 pm

Re: Neck lock

#10

Post by panoply » Tue Jul 06, 2004 3:42 pm

Here is a source for original key BLANKS. They are reliable. http://key-men.com

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