Bum OEM 56220-53 (push) Sleeve (spiral) Re-Hab's

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VintageTwin
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Bum OEM 56220-53 (push) Sleeve (spiral) Re-Hab's

#1

Post by VintageTwin » Mon Jul 14, 2008 4:58 pm

I ordered an OEM sleeve from http://nosparts.com/ and received an n.o.s box never opened, brand new spiral. Problem is, the spiral won't turn when installed. The inner spiral looks smooth, no flat spots, but I assume the channel in the sleeve has a reduced width at the bottom. The sleeve sticks at the beginning and will only push the cable out about 1/8".
Nosparts.com told me that I can return it, (which is very bro of them), but that they have no more -53 (1954-up) sleeves in stock.
Outside of a fix for the nos one I have (of which I know no fix), has anyone ordered a (VT 36-2551) sleeve from V-Twin lately?
The last one I ordered from them 5 yrs. ago had too shallow of a channel, and wouldn't turn with two rollers stacked (it would jerk-turn partially with only one roller, but would totally bind with the height of two.)
Any good news on the V-Twin sleeves would be welcomed.

Image
The problem is a Monday morning spot weld. It was too close to the channel of the inner sleeve and the weld bled through, into the top rim of the channel ramp.
Image
The weld slag is indicated.
Image
It takes a carbide #20 wheel.
A high-speed steel # 20 wheel won't even dent the spot weld.



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#2

Post by Panacea » Tue Jul 15, 2008 4:20 am

VT, I happen to need a dummy spiral for my left grip, order another one from Kickstart, 52.00, then sell me the crappy one..Mike

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#3

Post by VintageTwin » Tue Jul 15, 2008 6:05 am

Thanks, but I'm going to try and fix this one. I'm glad to hear Kick-Start has good "push" spirals now, because either nos.parts doesn't want to send me another one, or this one that I bought from them is the last of the (n.o.s) Mohican's. It was a good run on the 1953 spirals. 55 years worth of shelf stock at the end.

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#4

Post by mbskeam » Tue Jul 15, 2008 1:47 pm

drill out the 3 spot welds,press out, then debure and reweld on the end, you only need tack size welds

mbskeam

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#5

Post by VintageTwin » Tue Jul 15, 2008 2:50 pm

Are there pics of the process in your Photobucket album? Thanks for the outline, but there is only one small blip of weld bead bleed through, that's sitting on the ramp ledge. Problem is, the weld blob is harder than the hinges of hell. I sat on it with that hss burr and the blob wore it down to a nub - Laughed at me. :P
Local shop ordered the tiny carbide wheel for me. This should do it. I couldn't find a carbide steel bur wheel online at Dremel, or MSC.
Dremel carbide composite wheels were 3/32 wide on the edge, but 1/2" diameter - might have nicked the other side of the sleeve getting to the blip.
Image
This wheel is perfect size for this job - if it fails, I'll try a cobalt bur.

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#6

Post by Panacea » Wed Jul 16, 2008 2:11 am

I think the reason spirals are so hard to come by is because no dealers want to deal with the hassle of inferior parts that can't please the customer, I just spent all night hand fitting internal throttle for my new speedster bars, not one part fit correctly. Mike

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#7

Post by Panacea » Wed Jul 16, 2008 2:23 am

VT, mine wouldn't turn when installed either, I worked it over with a 90 degree point along both sides of the spiral till I could take the pin roller on my finger and slide it up and down the spiral with no tight areas, even so the throttle won't snap back at all and the roll on sucks. I'll see if it breaks in with use. Hope yours works out. Mike

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#8

Post by FlatHeadSix » Wed Jul 16, 2008 4:14 am

guys,

I've been through the same routine, twice, with 2 sets of bars and spirals. I just thought I'd throw this out as a word of caution.

Be careful when fitting, lapping, stoning, the new plungers and spirals. The edge of the opening on the handlebar slot gets RAZOR sharp. I seriously sliced my thumb open getting everything to operate smoothly, I was checking plunger operation by pushing on the pin and rollers with the spiral off, pushed the plunger pin up and......where's the Bandaids?

I don't know if any assortment of new or NOS parts will work smoothly right out of the box. If you take your time, and file, or grind, or lap, or otherwise fit the parts together, they can be made to work in harmony.

jmho

mike

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#9

Post by VintageTwin » Wed Jul 16, 2008 3:27 pm

I ordered a carbide bur. It's not that much of a blip. Just unbelievably tough.
Yep, the handlebar slot sidewalls have to be flat (and they do get sharp over time). Most of the repop '54 bars need filing along both edges. The rollers will stall if not.
Image
photo: V-Twin's superb replica '54-up bars (temporarily out of stock).
Last edited by Anonymous on Fri Jul 25, 2008 12:29 am, edited 1 time in total.

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#10

Post by VintageTwin » Thu Jul 24, 2008 11:58 pm

Image
This is the 1/8" carbide "Flat V Cutter". Part # SEVJR-20-W. If you email them, they'll tell you where you can buy one. About 20 bucks. It was the only tool that would do the job. MSC should carry them as well. JR-20-W might be a standard part number.
http://www.sevcal.com/
Image
The spot weld bleed-through was on the inside edge of the ramp where the 90 degree pick rests. This wheel reached down the wall to take out the weld blob without harming anything else. Having the sunlight shine directly on the spot was most helpful. I was able to watch the blob shrink to a thin film - allowing the angle-pick to pull the end up and the bur finished it off.
Image
The throttle now rotates smoothly and pushes the coil wire a standard 1-1/4" distance.

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