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Eastwood Stud Puller for Dents - Works !

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VintageTwin
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Eastwood Stud Puller for Dents - Works !

#1

Post by VintageTwin » Sat Oct 25, 2008 3:43 am

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Mark the deepest part of the dent.
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This is what 1 second on the trigger will do to a coffee can. :shock:
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Remove the "X" with acetone before you try and spot weld it. I tried a 1/2 second on this one, but it wasn't log enough contact. The stud pulled off. This nest attempt was a full second of trigger pull. The directions say there should be an 1/8" discoloration around the stud head when finished. Looks about right.

Ran a few of them to pull out - using the spot puller and the hammer on larger dents.
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The deep crease came out pretty good using the 3 lb. slide hammer. The shut-off/reserve valve works with less bind now. I'll still need the alignment tool. Felt good to remove the dents.
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Panacea
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Re: Eastwood Stud Puller for Dents - Works !

#2

Post by Panacea » Sat Oct 25, 2008 4:44 am

Are the studs re-useable? How about some pics of the attatchment process? Mike

VintageTwin
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Posts: 731
Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 7:18 pm
Bikes: '46 Knuck. '57 Panhead, '59 Panhead
Location: Repop Hell

Re: Eastwood Stud Puller for Dents - Works !

#3

Post by VintageTwin » Sat Oct 25, 2008 3:02 pm

Studs have a copper coat and once your fail at welding one of them (too cold, dirty surface, whatever), they aren't re-useable. Or at least I'm too scared to try to re-use any on this tank. The coffee can episode freaked me out. The pins come in a bag of 100, 2mm steel-copper studs.
Yep, I'll show post some application pics later this afternoon. I'm going to pull the dents this morning using the slide hammer and the spot puller pixed above. The spot puller has incredible strength. You have to watch the pull or you could over-pull it easily.
The welder is made in the USA. Calif. The instructions weren't written very well. I don't like it when they call something an electrode nozzle one time and then call it something else later on. There's some tips that I found out that should have bee written down.
The China version from Harbor Freight ($120.00) is about half the price of the USA one. Might work just as well, for the amount of use you'll need it for.

VintageTwin
Panhead Register Member
Posts: 731
Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 7:18 pm
Bikes: '46 Knuck. '57 Panhead, '59 Panhead
Location: Repop Hell

Do multiple spot welds fatigue metal?

#4

Post by VintageTwin » Sat Oct 25, 2008 5:26 pm

If the stud comes off from a cold weld and you re-weld another stud in the same place, or you spot-weld another stud 1/2" away from the one you just made, does it weaken the metal?
I'm going to ask the Eastwood Shop Talk site and get their take on it and post their response here.
I think their info source is an engineer - who's always in the background with a quick, easy to understand answer, about the mechanics of any of the products they sell.
http://forum.eastwoodco.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; > Product Reviews > #34041 Economy Dent Puller & Welded Stud Puller #31014
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With the electrode pushed in (pin will easily fall out), put the stud head directly on the lowest point of the dent. Pull the trigger for no more than 1-second.
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I used this spot puller for all the dents. Very powerful and versatile.
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On long dents, you can weld pins close together as long as the cage will allow the outside pin to thread through. This allows pulling from one area and then pulling from the other. Note: The rear stud head is not deeply buried in the metal. This will likely pop-off on a pull, so pull fast and sure, and if it's strong enough to pull the dent and pops-off, then you won't have a hardened stud to grind-off. [Note: On unseen, interior rusted metal you might make a pinhole on even a shallow-weld, when you rock the rounded head off the tank surface.]
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The pins, if stretched a lot when pulling a dent, can sometimes have the stud head snapped-off without leaving the head. If the head doesn't look deeply buried in the metal, use the technique above and rock the head off.
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Grinding the heads off of every stud is not easy. It's hard not to just remove the head (with an 80 grit disc) and not hit the tank surface, especially if your pull didn't make the tanks surface round like original. If a dip remains, then it's extremely difficult to angle the edge of that 10,000 rpm wheel and not have it veer off to the tank metal. Ryder suggested using a flap wheel.
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The original curve is back - I'll grind and Bondo the rest.

With this stud welding, I've save the worst for last - now more comfortable with the operation of the tool.
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I used 99 of 100 stud pins on this set of tanks. Once you get started you can't quit. Grind the stud heads down with an 80 grit disc and a flap wheel (great abrasion control) to finish off the rest.
Snapping off the whole head of the stud on a shallow-weld caused two holes. This tank lay on it's name side, open, for a long time in southern weather. [A mud dauber's nest rolled out of the fill neck after the first stud weld.]
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The pin holes are near the Harley script due in part to electrolysis transfer of ions. I'm taking it to my local welder and see if he can puddle some MiG welds. (yea, I know, the screws should be flat head countersunk. These are '59-61 round-head, countersunk, Phillips screws.) Tank emblem is genuine Harley-Davidson® China repop (chrome).
[Note: The emblems and lower underline bar are made straight. They must be curved to fit the tank, by hand. Use the repop mounting strip attached with screws before you bend them or you'll kink the emblem at the mount holes.]
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