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Someone ask me about the freezing method to remove dents
A problem that can occur, is that the water (expanding ice) doesn't know an acci-"dent" from an intentional "dent" (like the expensive to create contours
that run along the tank's bottom edge). The tank " contour
" that's over front rocker covers of a Knuckle & Panhead will most likely get larger. The ice may also push emblem indents out from their centers. And, the alignment of the top and bottom holes for the shut off rod might get moved, left unsupported against the ice expansion.
To get the dent out of that other one, fill it with water and let it freeze, it will push the dent right out and will cause no damage. The emblem mount might not work, but who knows, it is worth a try. Just wait a few months and the weather will be just right, let mother nature do the work and as an added advantage it is totally green.
I had actually heard of this years ago but I was a little apprehensive about doing it to a $500 gas tank and I must admit I was a bit concerned when I saw the bottom pushed alittle - especially since I could see that from the house. -28 here this morning.
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Good point VT,! you may have saved somebody a lot of heartache if they had tried that and ruined an otherwise good set of tanks. Another set of intentional "innie" dents that you wouldn't want to push out are the depressions in the WL tanks over the spark plugs. You are absolutely right, the expanding freezing water would not know the difference.
This is a little off the topic but its related. Make sure that the little drain holes are open at the bottom of the sprung fork on the springers. I have had to repair at least 3 sets of forks because they had filled with water and froze at some time in their history. Freezing water has no trouble at all splitting a fork tube, or frame tube, under the right (wrong) conditions.
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I have heard of the freezing method of dent removal but not filling the tank. The method I've heard of used dry ice only in the area of the specific dent you want to remove. It can only be done on a dent that has no crease. You use very thick gloves to handle the dry ice, hold it on the dent until you see frost at the edge and then remove the dry ice from the surface and place it in the hot sun or near a warm heater etc. I believe it would work on a small very shallow dent but don't think its a very good idea. Even though confining the dry ice to a specific area may eliminate the problem of affecting other indents you want to keep, subjecting the metal to the extreme temp. differences isn't a good idea. Save this one for removing a ding from the old car door or hood and not an expensive antique tank.