Fork lock

Chassis, frame, instruments, fenders etc.
Forum rules
Please do not start new topics here, but here: New Panhead and Flathead topics
Post Reply
chucklbones
Posts: 32
Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2005 2:03 pm

Fork lock

#1

Post by chucklbones » Tue Apr 05, 2005 5:30 pm

trying to remove fork lock cannot move the pin can it be drilled out and what size drill? also where to get new lock
thanks
chuck l bones



dj

Re: Fork lock

#2

Post by dj » Tue Apr 05, 2005 7:27 pm

Here is the best fork lock tutorial: Fork lock

You can occasionally find NOS locks on ebay, but V-Twin also carries re-pop locks.

BTW, the forum that this tutorial comes from can be accessed by clicking on the far right panhead engine on the bottom of this page, or the top of this forum's main page. It is also maintained by our host Panhead.

Good Luck!

chucklbones
Posts: 32
Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2005 2:03 pm

Re: Fork lock

#3

Post by chucklbones » Tue Apr 05, 2005 8:42 pm

d j
thanks for info i printed it up
chuck

FlatHeadSix
Moderator
Posts: 2682
Joined: Sun Jun 06, 2004 5:14 pm
Bikes: '31 VL, '34 VD, '45 WLA, '47 WL, '49 FL, '51 WL, '58 ST (Hummer), '71 GE (Servi)
Location: Lonoke, Arkansas

Re: Fork lock

#4

Post by FlatHeadSix » Wed Apr 06, 2005 3:53 am

Chuck,
I don't know how far along you are on the fork lock project, this may save you a LOT of time and effort (and money). If the original core is still in the lock it has a letter and three numbers stamped into the face. Most of the pans had a Briggs & Stratton "B" series core so the the letter stamped upper left as you view the core with the slot horizontal will be a "B". There is a number to the right of the letter and two more numbers below the slot. That's the key code for that core; something like B557. If you have the key blanks, and access to the codes (I have both) you can cut a key exactly like the original, you don't have to remove and replace the core.

If you're lucky, and the bike still has the original ignition switch the same key will work in it also.

By the way, some of those cores where "pinned" into the fork neck using a screw instead of a roll pin. The factory threaded the screws through the fork neck and chisled the head off, almost impossible to drill out if the fork is still attached to the frame neck.

51Hog
Posts: 655
Joined: Fri May 20, 2005 7:29 pm
Location: Wasilla, Alaska

Re: Fork lock

#5

Post by 51Hog » Wed Apr 06, 2005 4:31 am

Just what I needed to hear !!!! If I send you the number on the lock, Would you be willing to get a key cut for me? It would be a wonderful thing since I think I have an original switch and no key for either the Fork Lock or the switch. I don't want something for nuthing.......
Thanks, Dale

kevsett
Posts: 271
Joined: Mon Jan 31, 2005 6:45 pm
Bikes: 1964 FL
Location: Missouri

Re: Fork lock

#6

Post by kevsett » Fri Apr 08, 2005 7:49 pm

I haven't seen the code at this point. Is it b/c I need to take the lock and/or core out of the fork neck first? My lock is the original equipment and still mounted properly in the fork neck so what exactly do I need to do to be able to read the code? My local locksmith says he can get me a key if I can get him the code and I don't want to take anything off unless absolutely necessary.


Chuck,
I don't know how far along you are on the fork lock project, this may save you a LOT of time and effort (and money). If the original core is still in the lock it has a letter and three numbers stamped into the face. Most of the pans had a Briggs & Stratton "B" series core so the the letter stamped upper left as you view the core with the slot horizontal will be a "B". There is a number to the right of the letter and two more numbers below the slot. That's the key code for that core; something like B557. If you have the key blanks, and access to the codes (I have both) you can cut a key exactly like the original, you don't have to remove and replace the core.

If you're lucky, and the bike still has the original ignition switch the same key will work in it also.

By the way, some of those cores where "pinned" into the fork neck using a screw instead of a roll pin. The factory threaded the screws through the fork neck and chisled the head off, almost impossible to drill out if the fork is still attached to the frame neck.

51Hog
Posts: 655
Joined: Fri May 20, 2005 7:29 pm
Location: Wasilla, Alaska

Re: Fork lock

#7

Post by 51Hog » Fri Apr 08, 2005 9:24 pm

The number is on the face of my lock. I just cleaned all of the dirt and paint from the lock---And there was the number.

Post Reply

Return to “Chassis, Frame & Instruments”