'54-57 (early repop) VT Frame Trans Mount

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'54-57 (early repop) VT Frame Trans Mount


Post by VT » Thu Nov 24, 2005 5:07 pm

The frame I was sent in '97 was a wildcard :!: Sent it back to Connecticut three times for motor fitment problems, then painted it. Found out the 5th mount was too high and it wouldn't let the trans seat completely into the base plate. My fault, their fault. They did most of the motor fitting adjustments by tweaking. Very little cutting. Alot of correction was done by squeezing those two support plates at the bottom of the seat post. Those two plates on the left that have bends in them already. They're sending me another mount, but I thought I'd see if I could salvage the one that's on there by removing the top 3/32 laminate plate. I used a 7" angle-grind 24 grit disc to remove the top plate and try and keep it level, until I could see the thin layer of metal start to de-laminate. Then I peeled it off with needle nose pliers and hammered the sheet back flat, and used an 80 grit disc to relieve the perimeter weld bead that held it on. Some draw filing later and there I have it - a tapered gap that has no remedy except removal.
So, I stripped the frame and knocked the cups out. Left the trans base plate bolted on. Taking the frame and two trans to Stetts to evaluate, grind the 5th mount off and replace it. http://stettsironhorseranch.com/. All transmission's bottom 5th mount bosses are going to create different gaps. I have three that may each be a little different. Then have the frame blasted, taping-off the trans mount base pillar tops, motor mounts, rear frame axle gusset slide ramp tops, seat post bushing, crossover bushings, headstock fork cup rims, for powdercoating. Will probably powdercoat the forward control frame mount faces. Removing the fork lock.
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Last edited by VT on Sun Dec 04, 2005 3:05 am, edited 9 times in total.



Post by VT » Thu Nov 24, 2005 5:21 pm

There was never a shim called out in the parts books. People (myself included) not knowingly would tighten the 5th mount bolt (3/8-16 x 1").
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Last edited by VT on Sun Dec 04, 2005 3:03 am, edited 3 times in total.



Post by VT » Fri Nov 25, 2005 6:42 pm

The raised platform on the trans. boss is from running the trans without a bolt. The shape of the slot has been pounded into the base. Needs milling before shimming. S/S slotted-shims w/tab are available from McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/ > Search for "SHIMS".
All transmissions will probably need a shim. Any gap left over 0.005" will put stress on the trans and frame when the 5th mount bolt is tightened.
Make sure you have the motor and trans you're going to use before you ever buy a frame.
12/6/05 Stet has my frame, replacing the 5th mount. I'm scuffing, primering and re-painting the frame.
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Last edited by VT on Mon Dec 12, 2005 3:13 am, edited 1 time in total.



Post by VT » Wed Dec 07, 2005 7:26 pm

Here's the replacement mount.
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Location: N. Carolina


Post by SkyHogg » Mon Dec 12, 2005 12:02 am

Well .. in dealing with old iron i guess you've gotta do what you've gotta do. But seeing as how they ain't exactly giving those frames away, they should be right the first time. Or am I askin' for just a bit too much? I'm kinda getting tired of Tiawan / Chinese junk that doesn't fit, work, or last in relation to what we spend on it.
'Nuff bitchin' I guess ... I'll crawl back into the corner of my garage and check my spark gap or something useful ......
Last edited by SkyHogg on Tue Dec 13, 2005 6:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.



Post by VT » Mon Dec 12, 2005 3:11 am

Everybody gets dealt a different hand with tese parts. You have to play it carefully. Be prepared to send the part back immediately. Check it, fit it, as soon as you get it. Handle with care.
IMO, when considering ground-up replication, a motor frame, and transmission is considered one unit that should be checked for fit at the same time, preferably on wheels w/ working brakes. I've been told there's lots of 'the 54-57 replica frames on the road out there at this time.

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