Problems with attachments solved: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=17433

Steering Head Lock

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VintageTwin
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Steering Head Lock

#1

Post by VintageTwin » Mon Jun 28, 2004 8:48 pm

Steering Head
Lock
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mbskeam
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drilling out for rollpin

#2

Post by mbskeam » Wed Jun 30, 2004 6:54 am

hello, you might be able to drill a new roll pin hole from the under side throught the lower casting rib and into the boss as the same angle as the hole from the top.then put a small spot of weld to fill in the lower rib that was drilled, grind smoth and you will never see it. bondo will also work. If there is no key lock hole then you need to drill up in steps to drill size 47/64 and get a .751 stuby reamer and have fun.
mbskeam

VintageTwin
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#3

Post by VintageTwin » Fri Jul 02, 2004 2:23 pm

MVC-040S.JPG
MVC-042S.JPG
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VintageTwin
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:idea:

#4

Post by VintageTwin » Fri Jul 02, 2004 2:44 pm

lock03.JPG
lock02.JPG
lock01.JPG
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Last edited by Anonymous on Fri Jul 25, 2008 7:23 pm, edited 3 times in total.

VintageTwin
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#5

Post by VintageTwin » Sun Jul 04, 2004 2:45 pm

:arrow:
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VintageTwin
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#6

Post by VintageTwin » Sun Jul 04, 2004 2:53 pm

Make the line begin at the end of where the plunger casting stops, and make the line level. Set the slide rule to 13/32 and make a pen mark. Use an automatic punch to make a divot.
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VintageTwin
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#7

Post by VintageTwin » Sun Jul 04, 2004 3:03 pm

The 13/32 position allows a drill bit to make a pass. The casing's 3/32 hole is almost 1/2" inward and....it's drilled at a slant. Don't use this hole. Check out how much meat is in the casing. It's 1/8" thick where the (shallow) pin hole will be drilled. Drill this pin hole 1/16" deep max. You will need to make a drill-stop out of masking tape to keep the bit from augering-in further than it should.
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VintageTwin
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#8

Post by VintageTwin » Sat Jul 10, 2004 2:37 pm

lock14.JPG
lock15.JPG
lock16.JPG
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VintageTwin
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#9

Post by VintageTwin » Sun Jul 11, 2004 12:22 am

lock.17.JPG
lock18.JPG
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VintageTwin
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#10

Post by VintageTwin » Wed Oct 06, 2004 4:30 pm

lock25.JPG
lock26.JPG
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thsmith
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#11

Post by thsmith » Fri Dec 03, 2004 3:21 pm

If your frame is already setup for a lock and want to replace so I will have a key do you still need to remove the front end to the job ?

Thanks,

Tracy

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#12

Post by thsmith » Fri Dec 03, 2004 9:45 pm

VT, as usual thanks for the good info. So, if I can get the lock out and the frame pin out I should be able to replace with another lock set like V-Twin with out having to remove the front end ? How secure are these locks ? I currently carry a chain and pad lock but any additional security could only help.

Thanks Again VT,

Tracy

Commander47
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#13

Post by Commander47 » Sat Dec 01, 2007 1:54 pm

This is a tremendous help to me with my 51.

I have to agree that having the fork lock is one of those small details that really makes the bike stand out. I went to a lot of work to replace the entire neck on a "sanitized" frame, and the silly little lock is a like the crown jewel.

What did you mean about the front glide brake in line construction? Does that have anything to do with the lock?

My lock lines up perfectly with the triple tree all the way to the left and resting on the fork stop as if it were on its sidestand. Is this correct? :roll:

VintageTwin
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#14

Post by VintageTwin » Sat Dec 01, 2007 3:06 pm

You will be in deep, deep, trouble if you don't heed the in-line construction process.
Oh yeah...I wrote that in '04. What I meant was to say that the front brake cable has to thread through the adjuster, the cable tube, and cable tube seat and then the cable bent around the clevis. If you forget a little part like the cable tube seat, you have to unravel all that work and the cable's gonna want to frey, which will make it a bear to re-thread again. That's what i meant by the Glide's in-line construction.

drinner-okc
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Briggs & Stratton key source

#15

Post by drinner-okc » Sat Dec 01, 2007 5:57 pm

If your fork lock is still present, you have no key but the number is on the
face, I've found a source.

Jesser's Classic Keys
26 West Street
Akron OH 44303-2344
ph 330 376-8181

Joey Jesser keymanjj@hotmail.com

I've not used them personally, the keys are not cheap, but he has all the
types of Briggs blanks (H-D & Indian) even old autos.

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