FRAME LOCK QUESTIONS " HELP "

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dwm1961
Posts: 11
Joined: Sat Feb 06, 2010 5:19 am
Bikes: 1963 duo glide,king of the road
1974 xlh
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FRAME LOCK QUESTIONS " HELP "

#1

Post by dwm1961 » Mon Feb 22, 2010 6:41 pm

Hay all : on my 1963 frame there's a neck lock ,and i do not have the key !! can i find a replacement ?? where,who ??
I'm waiting for a call back from my local lock smith to see if he can do anything for me,but thought i'd check on hear also ??
Thanks
for any ideas !!

babyDave



FlatHeadSix
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Re: FRAME LOCK QUESTIONS " HELP "

#2

Post by FlatHeadSix » Mon Feb 22, 2010 6:52 pm

Dave,
If you can read the number on the face of the lock core you can get a replacement key made. The code is a single letter followed by 3 numbers, the letter and the 1st number are on one side of the key slot, the other 2 numbers are below it. Should be something like B123. Do you have an ignition key?, are the codes the same for both your ignition and fork lock?

Mike

dwm1961
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1974 xlh
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Re: FRAME LOCK QUESTIONS " HELP "

#3

Post by dwm1961 » Mon Feb 22, 2010 7:01 pm

Thanks ,when the lock smith calls back i'm going to ask about this !!!

Thanks

BabyDave

dwm1961
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1974 xlh
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Re: FRAME LOCK QUESTIONS " HELP "

#4

Post by dwm1961 » Mon Feb 22, 2010 9:40 pm

Well, there's no numbers on the lock ??

james
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1952 FL
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Re: FRAME LOCK QUESTIONS " HELP "

#5

Post by james » Mon Feb 22, 2010 11:00 pm

Contact Alan Zacharias. Has key codes and makes keys for Harleys.
Did a good job for me.
(570) 387-1373

But you will need the lock number like Mike said.

Jim

fourthgear
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Re: FRAME LOCK QUESTIONS " HELP "

#6

Post by fourthgear » Mon Feb 22, 2010 11:30 pm

I think Bills Custom Cycles in PA. ,has new locks/w keys if you want or need to got that way .

Robert Luland
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Re: FRAME LOCK QUESTIONS " HELP "

#7

Post by Robert Luland » Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:23 am

DWM you won't find a number. 1954 and up have the stainless shield in front of the cylinder and there's no number behind it. I have a brandy new one in my hand right now. NOS OEM Harley with an H key code which is right for you motorcickal. $50 clams with shipping and I'll be a sport and throw in the two keys that fit it. Hold on now. This deal is going to get better by the minute! If you order right now I'll throw in a genuine split pin for mounting this little puppy. PLUSSS! You get to call me if ya get into trouble and I'll walk ya though it If your interested bob@newenglandhvacservices.com. Good Ruck!

fourthgear
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Re: FRAME LOCK QUESTIONS " HELP "

#8

Post by fourthgear » Tue Feb 23, 2010 10:53 pm

Damn, there's a deal!

kevsett
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Re: FRAME LOCK QUESTIONS " HELP "

#9

Post by kevsett » Fri Feb 26, 2010 7:48 pm

A local locksmith once told me to bring the bike in and he would be able to "pick" the lock to determine the key size/type. I still haven't took him up on it.

DuoGlide62
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Re: FRAME LOCK QUESTIONS " HELP "

#10

Post by DuoGlide62 » Fri Feb 26, 2010 11:09 pm

My necklock takes an American Motors Trunk Key. Doesn't go in all the way but bottoms out and works fine.
(and yes, I blurred the image for security reasons)
necklock key.jpg
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Robert Luland
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Re: FRAME LOCK QUESTIONS " HELP "

#11

Post by Robert Luland » Sat Feb 27, 2010 2:25 am

Good afternoon gentleman. I meant to get back to this subject earlier this week but no time. Let’s start with the locksmith make a key thing. This is an excellent idea until? The Harley neck cylinder is a piece of shit from the day it left the doors of Briggs & Stratton. I mean there are mailbox cylinders that are made better. The cylinder its self is die cast aluminum. It does not use pins like a quality cylinder but instead it has raw steel wafers that ride up and down in slots with little springs on top that act as the pins. Now we all know what happens to die cast when is exposed to the elements. You get that white phosphate forming and then the little wafers don’t go up and down in the slots anymore. So if ya got a neck lock that works. Spray it with WD often. The point I’m trying to make here is if you have a bike where the lock has not been used for decade or so. Don’t waste your time with the locksmith. I spent three hours trying to get the one on my 48 to work again. I finally threw the towel in. If you got a 55 and up just get another cylinder. Flat head your right to an existent. Ignition switches had numbers stamped into their face until 47. In 1948 with the introduction of the neck lock, 48 and up have no markings on the ignition cylinder but the neck lock had them till the end of 54. The 48 and up ignition cylinder can be turn with any key. They took the wafers out since they now depended on the neck lock for security, hens no reason for numbers. I don’t know what year in the 60s they started to pin the cylinders again. Bob L

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Re: FRAME LOCK QUESTIONS " HELP "

#12

Post by FlatHeadSix » Sat Feb 27, 2010 4:55 am

Rick,
The AMC key works because it has the same groove pattern as the original, the late model AMC key just has a longer shank. The correct key blank is a Curtis B3 or an ILCO 1098L:
Original Briggs & Stratton for Hudson, Harley Davidson motorcycles all up to 1969 (some up to 1979), All Indian Motorcycle (original), Willys, Jeep up to 1960 except 1945, AMC. This key fits dozens of makes of classic cars. The same key blank was used for a bunch of OEM GM locks as well, the GM key is a Curtis B1 or ILCO 1098M. Any of them will work.

One on-line vendor that sells these blanks is:
http://www.key-men.com/shopping/show_cat.php

but, there are many others, if you can find an old well established local lock smith or hardware store they probably have the blanks hanging on the rack for a much better price.

mike

katto
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Re: FRAME LOCK QUESTIONS " HELP "

#13

Post by katto » Sat Feb 27, 2010 5:12 am

I took mine to an Ol-timer at Northeast Key in Kansas City MO. He Told me my frame lock was full of dirt,and told me ta use compressed-air & WD40. He give me a new key-blank to help Loosen dirt. I took the frame back to him, and he used a new key blank and filed one out in no time; I was amazed at his skill. Northeast Key at : 816-231-0332 ............Katto

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Re: FRAME LOCK QUESTIONS " HELP "

#14

Post by FlatHeadSix » Sat Feb 27, 2010 5:44 am

Robert,
The lock cylinder cores were not aluminum, they were cast pot metal. The "yale" type cylinders used brass wafers which were loaded with tiny copper springs. The big plungers or pins that slid in and out of the neck casting and the big springs behind them were ferrous (iron). It was the combination of all these different metals that triggered the elctro-chemical reaction that caused them to freeze after years of non-use and exposure to moisture and dirt.

As you suggested, frequent use and routine spraying of WD-40 or any water displacement lubricant will prevent or correct the locks from siezing.

And, as you stated, it was an unpublished "secret" that the early panhead ignition switch lock cores did NOT have wafers or pins in them; any key, even a blank, will turn the lock. Only the fork lock had wafers, 5 of them, and had a code stamped on the core face which indicated the unique sequence for the cuts on the key.

mike

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Re: FRAME LOCK QUESTIONS " HELP "

#15

Post by FlatHeadSix » Sat Feb 27, 2010 5:51 am

Katto,
What is the brand of key and number on the key blank he gave you? It should help all of us if it is different than the ones I just posted. I'm going to guess that it was a B1 or B3 blank.

mike

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