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Steering Head Lock installation

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panhead_kicker
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Steering Head Lock installation

#1

Post by panhead_kicker » Wed Sep 01, 2010 2:20 am

I am preparing to install the steering head lock in my 64. Can anyone tell me what length and diameter roll pin should be used to stake a new lock barrel with? Also how deep can I drill into the lock barrel without boogering it up?



Cotten
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Re: Steering Head Lock installation

#2

Post by Cotten » Wed Sep 01, 2010 1:59 pm

Panhead_Kicker!

You do not want to drill into the core at all if you can!
I used another key to wiggle the core for feel.

Although the Factory switched to roll pins in the later Pan years, you will find that they are very hard, and difficult to drill out. If you should break your drill bit, it shall be a real trial. The previous method of a tapped screw with the head chisled off is much more service friendly.

In the interest of future repairs, I always replaced them with a removeable set screw, which I then filled with paint to hide.

And I deviated from Factory in one more manner:
The spring behind the plunger seemed like a liability to me, for if the detente of the core ever failed, or the core somehow worked outward, the plunger could suddenly lock up your steering. So I eliminated it with no effect upon the function of the assembly.

.....Cotten

Panacea
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Re: Steering Head Lock installation

#3

Post by Panacea » Thu Sep 02, 2010 1:13 am

I installed a new lock where the old hole had been welded shut, the lock I got came with not one but two new roll pins, if the one I just found is the spare, it's .132" x 3/4". However I can't be 100 percent sure it's the right one...Mike

panhead_kicker
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Re: Steering Head Lock installation

#4

Post by panhead_kicker » Thu Sep 02, 2010 2:53 am

The duo-glide parts book doesn't list the spring, so I had not planned on using it.
A removable set screw eliminates the need to know the exact length of the pin... I may go that route if I can persuade a small tap down the pin hole. Kind of a tight area, and a broken tap would be as bad if not worse than a drill bit in the hole!
Thanks for the tips Cotten and Panacea.

Robert Luland
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Re: Steering Head Lock installation

#5

Post by Robert Luland » Sat Sep 04, 2010 3:25 pm

The size of the Set screw is 4-40X3/16”. The Stainless ones were 15 cents more so I broke down. If you need some drop me a pm and I’ll drop two in the mail. The bad side of the set screw is ya got to by 25 minimum. Bob L

phread
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Re: Steering Head Lock installation

#6

Post by phread » Wed Jun 29, 2011 6:40 pm

Anyone actually have a set of instructions on how to remove/install a new steering head lock?
I just want to make sure I'm doing it right on my '64.

Cheers,

Phread

Cotten
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Re: Steering Head Lock installation

#7

Post by Cotten » Wed Jun 29, 2011 8:42 pm

Phread!

We may have to write our own!
The first step is to find the lockpin:
LOCKPIN.jpg
....Cotten
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

panhead
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Re: Steering Head Lock installation

#8

Post by panhead » Wed Jun 29, 2011 8:52 pm

Look in the Knowledge Base (http://www.hydra-glide.com/scripts/toc4.php) for neck lock

Robert Luland
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Re: Steering Head Lock installation

#9

Post by Robert Luland » Thu Jun 30, 2011 12:00 am

There are several methods to achieve the lock replacement. First don't even think about drilling out that split pin. First it's going to require an expensive long drill bit. Second the chances of that drill bit braking are 90%. Third you are going to enlarge the hole so no split pin will work. So now let's get down to basic ghetto tactics. For you guys here that have never stolen cars. Get your hands on a standard body worker dent puller. Screw it into the cylinder as tight as you can and, I'll stop right here. If you can't figure out the next move, you don't deserve being around any Harley. After you pull that baby out just drive what's left of the split pin into the cylinder hole with the proper size drift. Job done! I've had some stubborn one over the years where I drilled a 1/16" hole on the other side of the neck and used a drift to drive it out. You use the same dent puller to pull the welsh plug out of the front of the neck. I've always taped the hole and used a set screw but there's no reason the split pin wouldn't work if ya do it my way. Now let's explore the reason your doing this in the first place. It take two men on an adrenalin methamphetamine, need a fix 30 seconds to put your beloved Panhead into a pick-up and split. All the neck lock does is makes their job easier. No slop on the front end. I hope the hell there is nobody here that thinks this neck lock is a protection device. Rule One: If you can't see it, You won't own it long. Bob L

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Re: Steering Head Lock installation

#10

Post by RUBONE » Thu Jun 30, 2011 12:15 am

Bob,
Back in the old days when lots of Pans with neck locks were around and I was working for a shop guys would call that had lost their keys, couldn't move the bike, etc. I would go to where they were, take those big buckhorn bars, rotate as far away from the lock as possible, and give them a big snap against the lock. 90% of the time it sheared on the first try. Haul them back to the shop, yank the remains out as you said, replace the lock and give them the new keys and send them down the road. Security?? I think not!
Robbie

Cotten
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Re: Steering Head Lock installation

#11

Post by Cotten » Thu Jun 30, 2011 1:08 am

Does anybody know when they switched from a mild steel screw (with the head chiseled off) to a hardened roll-pin?

It takes patience, but either will succumb to a left-hand drillbit.

....Cotten

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Re: Steering Head Lock installation

#12

Post by FlatHeadSix » Thu Jun 30, 2011 3:06 am

Bob & Cotten's comments are dead on the money, that neck lock is not really a security device, its just to keep the honest people honest.

but, let's back up a few steps. If the lock is still in there, and it appears unmolested and functional, all you need to do is read the number stamped on the face of the core and give it to a the right locksmith, he will make you a new key. The number usually starts with the letter "B" (those were Briggs & Stratton locks) and have 3 numbers, the first number is above the slot next to the B, the other 2 numbers are below the slot. Give the entire number to a locksmith that has the old code books for Briggs & Stratton locks and he will cut you a new key for your lock. The entire code is contained in that stamping and it is all you need, something like "B123".

If you can still read the code stamping and you can't find a locksmith please PM me, I'll hook you up. Its a lot easier than trying to drill out a roll pin or tap the hole for a set screw.

And, here's another interesting fact, the early pans did not have keyed cores in the ignition switch, one key, any key, fits all. The "keyed" core was in the fork lock. How secure was that?

mike

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Re: Steering Head Lock installation

#13

Post by George Greer » Thu Jun 30, 2011 3:57 am

Security,

In Germany not such a large issue, lock up your stuff and you will be able to keep your stuff.

I have not seen issues of old bikes being stolen, but I am sure that it does happen.

In US.......

12 Gauge, locked fencing, locked shed, bike chained to floor. Constantly pissed off German Shepard & 150lb ugly Rottweiler..

What ya think?

steve_wood
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Re: Steering Head Lock installation

#14

Post by steve_wood » Thu Jun 30, 2011 12:39 pm

I don't think it's appropriate to criticize other people's country.

Cotten
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Re: Steering Head Lock installation

#15

Post by Cotten » Thu Jun 30, 2011 12:59 pm

Mike!

By '64, there was a stainless cover over the lock core, and no numbers are visible.

.....Cotten

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