Ad blocker detected: Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors. Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker on our website.
Problems with attachments solved: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=17433
11 posts • Page 1 of 1
- Posts: 1161
- Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2004 8:57 pm
- Bikes: 50 EL custom
76 FLH All Original
- Location: Maryland
Some of their products are not meant to be used on parts subjected to sunlight. I never painted with their product. I do have one set of tanks sealed with it, I'm not sure I would do it again but it is working ok for now.
We have used it on some parts under the rear of our sand/salt spreader where I work; pretty harsh environment as far as corrosion goes and I can attest to the stuff being tougher'n heck. That's my only experience with it and I can say if a rust proof paint is what I was looking for, this is what I would choose. I'm pretty fussy when it comes to my bike though, and I've never tried to get an "automotive quality" finish out of it, so what it'd look like on a nice frame I can't say.
- Posts: 142
- Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2010 4:05 am
- Bikes: 1959 PAN CHOPPER
- Location: TENNESSEE
i just bought a army truck (m715) that has this stuff on the chassis and you can peel it off like a orange. if it was me I,d not use the por15 and instead go with epoxy primer and top coat. it $$$ but you get what you pay for. i use dupont myself imron it the smooze but its very expensiv and you need a fresh air supply to paint the stuff cauz it will kill you. JMO
If you apply POR-15 per the directions, which include cleaning the area to be painted with Marine Clean (or something like that), you'll end up with a very VERY tough, durable coating. And as someone pointed out, some of the rust inhibitors (Chassis Black I think) also need to be topcoated to make it UV proof. I've used it a lot on frame touch ups (my frame is powdercoated) and you can't tell were the touchups were, even after getting practically sandblasted by a spreader truck a while ago...