Final finish for heads and engine cases

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FlatHeadSix
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Final finish for heads and engine cases

#1

Post by FlatHeadSix » Sat May 14, 2005 3:43 pm

Description: Final Finish for Heads and Engine Cases

Looking for a little feedback from the experts (one of them would be you Billy because you got me started on this stroker project)
After bead blasting 58 years and 5 layers of paint-dirt-burned oil-paint, etc. off the heads they look great. Question is, do I leave them bare aluminum or give them a fresh coat of high-temp aluminum paint? Same deal for the engine cases and tranny case. Everything looks great in bare aluminum, just wondering if I should coat it with something.

Billy, did you put #6 heads on your servi after you stroked it? I still have the original #5 heads and they're in pretty good shape, couple of broke fins but otherwise serviceable.
thanks,
mike



Jack_Hester
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Re: Final finish for heads and engine cases

#2

Post by Jack_Hester » Sat May 14, 2005 9:43 pm

Mike -

If this is a rider, and you are not worried about 100% original finish, I would recommend the following:

Make sure your heads are oil free. Then, spray them with a good coat of high temp aluminum, inside and out. Let them dry overnight, though they will be dry to the touch in a few minutes. Wash them in hot, soapy water to get the shiney over spray off. If you have an air compressor, blow-dry them. Otherwise, put them out in the sun to make sure the water evaporates. A good, hot rinse will make them dry faster, as the heads will be hot. Now, you have heads that will look like new cast for quite some time. The high temp aluminum will not protect them from all stains. But, will retain a fairly new metal look.
Only my opinion. I build riders, and have found this to work.

Jack

Billy
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Re: Final finish for heads and engine cases

#3

Post by Billy » Sun May 15, 2005 5:22 am

Blame it on me.. ;D

Jack always has Excellent advice!! He knows.......
If you do paint, I would avoid the brand 'VHT' paint on the Heads & Cly's, it tends to retain too much heat...
Also, if you are blasting your cases/trans 'insides' you had better clean them thoroughly & seal them w/Glyptal. So trapped
beads don't release from alum pores when hot, into the oil !!! But better done after cases are "clearanced" for additional stroke..Do the messy work first...

I used #6's but I have relieved my cylinders to help it breathe, + lower comp. ratio. + Bigger cams.....
Because, additional stroke=extra swept volume. For
eg... #5's stroked = 5.7 c/r (nice) w/copper head gaskets. Better heat transfer, & thinner than others..
#6's stroked = 6.9 c/r bit high? (Relieved=6.5c/r) (Fine)

#5's are Just Fine..
But, they can be 'milled' to 6's if ya need to go "Full Tilt"
Good news, T&O now has 45 stroker pistons $129.pr.

FlatHeadSix
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Re: Final finish for heads and engine cases

#4

Post by FlatHeadSix » Sun May 15, 2005 2:01 pm

Thanks guys, exactly the information I needed. I was strongly considering painting them anyway, I just needed to hear someone tell me it was a good idea.

Jack, I'm like you, I build them to ride. If it can't haul my butt down the highway then its not a motorcycle.

Billy, thanks for the tip on the VHT. I used VHT for the front brake drum and hub on the 47WL but I haven't shot any on the heads or cylinders. I think VHT is made for brake parts anyway, if you can believe what they put on the label. I'm glad you mentioned cams, any preference? I'm not building a WR, I just want a little more power so it won't be a road hazard on the highway. I don't want to have to hang one of those orange triangles on the back and hold up traffic.

I'm going to shave the heads a little, just enough to true them up, not mill them all the way to #6's. I'll probably go with copper gaskets too, like you said they give much better heat transfer than the original asbestos ones and a little more compression too.
I'm sticking with the Linkert and most of the other stock stuff, it all worked in 1947, no reason it shouldn't work today.
I'm going to check out the T&O pistons. The ones I pulled out were .030 over and looked like new, no scoring on the pistons or cylinder walls and the cylinders snap guaged fine. If they don't have oversize I may just trim the skirts on the ones I have.
This was a one-kick machine when I tore it apart, hot, cold, wet, dry....anytime. I hope I haven't jinxed it, you know what they say about fixing stuff that isn't broke.

mike

Billy
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Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2004 6:57 am

Re: Final finish for heads and engine cases

#5

Post by Billy » Sun May 15, 2005 9:55 pm

Mike-
Fancy house dressings, if you don't ride them...
Using 4 7/16" wheels = 5/8" more stroke= 1/2 up & 1/2 down, or 5/16" higher & 5/16" lower..
Stock pistons w/stroker wheels='piston poke above cyl deck aprox. 5/16" & your rings will be partly out of cyl.. too. The stroker pistons have re-located wrist-pins for this reason.. Only info I currently have on T&O's imported pistons are they come from India (I hear)
A few Strokers being also built @
http://www.flatheadpower.com & 1 of the 'servi-sites.
As far as cams, I built solely for "Torque" servi=heavy
Solo=light, cams can be more aggressive..
Some choices to chew-on. http://www.leinewebercams.com
Jim re-grinds "your cams". He did mine...A+
or Kurt @ http://www.45partsdepot.com has WLDR repop cams... (in stock) Another good choice..A+
Kurt is a regular here. He has 2 Sharp 45 Wl's in the Pic Gallery, (must see).. Built mostly from their parts..
Billy

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