Generator wire route

Electrical issues
Forum rules
Please do not start new topics here, but here: New Panhead and Flathead topics
Post Reply
ridermike
Posts: 45
Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 8:01 pm
Bikes: 1960 FLF
1942 WLA
1998 FLHTC
2000 Custom
Location: Mid Tn.

Generator wire route

#1

Post by ridermike » Thu Aug 10, 2006 2:01 am

Hello all,
I’m new to this forum or any forum for that matter. I stumbled on this site a few days ago and boy could I have of used it over the last 10 months or so. I have found tons of useful information here and quite a few good stories also. My name is Mike and I own a 60 FL that I am restoring (I know you can restore many times but it’s only original once). I also have a Shovel, Evo and VW trike (the ole lady’s) I haven’t made it to the twin-cam yet and probably won’t, I want a flattie next, but on to the question. I can’t seem to find the proper wire routing for the generator to regulator. Is it behind all the pushrods, behind the front 2 and in front of the rear 2, or is it behind the front and in between the rear? Maybe none of the above. None of the books I have show the routing and all the pans that I have seen were all wired different. Oh yea stock 6v system.



Cotten
Posts: 6791
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 9:09 am
Location: Central Illinois

#2

Post by Cotten » Thu Aug 10, 2006 2:12 am

RiderMike!

The idiot light wire comes down the left frame member (held with a parkerized clip), and the conduit....(memory fading....), .... is held by a parked tab on the rear upper case stud, then goes behind the carb support and then behind the circuit breaker.

The last '60 I did was converted to 12v, so don't trust me.

....Cotten

ridermike
Posts: 45
Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 8:01 pm
Bikes: 1960 FLF
1942 WLA
1998 FLHTC
2000 Custom
Location: Mid Tn.

#3

Post by ridermike » Thu Aug 10, 2006 2:39 am

Cotten
Thanks
That’s kinda what I thought and that is the way I had it. When you add a trumpet horn into the mix you get a wad of everything coming together behind the carb support so I thought this couldn’t be right. Throw in a front cylinder base leak (James beaded metal) and you really have a mess. So while I am fixing the leak I thought I would reroute and at least be able to see if the fix worked. (James paper & RTV)

Cotten
Posts: 6791
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 9:09 am
Location: Central Illinois

#4

Post by Cotten » Thu Aug 10, 2006 2:47 am

Good luck with the RTV.

It's evil.

...Cotten

VT

#5

Post by VT » Thu Aug 10, 2006 4:13 am

yeah....leave that RTV alone. Can clog oil passages, etc., it just sucks. Use black Permatex of Gasgacinch or anything but R...T...V. You don't want a blue bead of goop sticking out from around the base anyway. Or blue anything on the motor. :? IMHO
Let's see, it's uh....Yamabond® for case halves, might be used for base gaskets too.
Last edited by VT on Thu Aug 10, 2006 4:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Cotten
Posts: 6791
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 9:09 am
Location: Central Illinois

#6

Post by Cotten » Thu Aug 10, 2006 11:56 am

And it lets base gaskets "walk" or slowly squeeze out.

...Cotten

Guest

#7

Post by Guest » Tue Aug 29, 2006 10:56 am

Hi: Re generator wireing harness route. For 1950"era FL OHV Models, the conduit with all generator/ind. lite wires runs from the dash base downward then forward taped to the lower frame tube. Then,it exits between the fuel tanks and then down the left front frame down tubes. a clip is located near the mouse trap on footshift versions but still in the same location for stick shift big twins.....partshunt

Post Reply

Return to “Electrical”