Anyone have a picture of how the front terminal plate is mounted to the trees? Or just tell me how it is done. I am getting ready to return the harness to a more original state on my 57. I have a picture from John HD that shows the plate and wiring, but not the actual mounting.
Kent
Glide Front Terminal Plate Mounting
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Please do not start new topics here, but here: New Panhead and Flathead topics
Please do not start new topics here, but here: New Panhead and Flathead topics
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Cotten
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Kent!
Just two screws, one at the top clamp (occasionally also a 'ground') and one at the bottom.
(I think #10-24 roundhead with lockwasher.)
Don't be surprised if the holes aren't straight up and down, but both will be close to the middle of the left side, as you face the fork.
The important thing for your '57 is to face the terminals to the rear of the bike.
....Cotten
Just two screws, one at the top clamp (occasionally also a 'ground') and one at the bottom.
(I think #10-24 roundhead with lockwasher.)
Don't be surprised if the holes aren't straight up and down, but both will be close to the middle of the left side, as you face the fork.
The important thing for your '57 is to face the terminals to the rear of the bike.
....Cotten
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VT
Excuse me for butting in, but the plate in the top pic is OE. Note star washer under screw head. This relic plate came from that big haul of parts out of Morgan City, LA in 1989. Ramona Pete and his buddies hauled that stuff in a long, long, trailer that broke an axle near Gila Bend, AZ (in the middle of the summer!) and they had to unload the whole trailer to repair it, plus got hassled by the state troopers because they happen to be driving a red & white pick-up.
Anyway, V-Twin sells nice ones. Laminate like OE. That's a V-Twins below. I added the brass plain washers, not OE, but I wanted to protect the plate.
The headlight mount is suppose to have rubber mount bushings through the bottom mount holes. I've never used them. People have said my bracket will crack. They never have and it hasn't caused any of my seal-beams to fail. It's OE, so this one's hardened. I've heard repops aren't. I'd go with the rubber mount kit. V-Twin has them.
The screws are 10-32 x 1/2" fillister (VT 37-0753).
Anyway, V-Twin sells nice ones. Laminate like OE. That's a V-Twins below. I added the brass plain washers, not OE, but I wanted to protect the plate.
The headlight mount is suppose to have rubber mount bushings through the bottom mount holes. I've never used them. People have said my bracket will crack. They never have and it hasn't caused any of my seal-beams to fail. It's OE, so this one's hardened. I've heard repops aren't. I'd go with the rubber mount kit. V-Twin has them.
The screws are 10-32 x 1/2" fillister (VT 37-0753).
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VT
See that gap below the top fillister screw? Some of that is because the fork cups (shown in a book-reject backside pic) are 60-up and raise the top tree a 1/16" (1/8" collectively, with the bottom cup 1/16" higher than a '49-59) 
There's still no 1949-59 cups from Tedd yet. I gave JW a set to match measurements with the ones the jobber is sending from Taiwan as replicas. That was in June '04.
I replaced these 60-ups with a set of 49-59 cups Mark Blankenship made for me. AMCA guy. He still makes them. Reminds me, I left him out of the Appendix. I'll fix that.
I have two or three '60 cup sets / with bearings....for...sale.
There's still no 1949-59 cups from Tedd yet. I gave JW a set to match measurements with the ones the jobber is sending from Taiwan as replicas. That was in June '04.
I replaced these 60-ups with a set of 49-59 cups Mark Blankenship made for me. AMCA guy. He still makes them. Reminds me, I left him out of the Appendix. I'll fix that.
I have two or three '60 cup sets / with bearings....for...sale.
VT
Thanks for the discussion re the headlight mounting bracket. There is no rubber in my mounting and although the bracket has not cracked the focusing cups in my sealed beams have broken off with great regularity. Maybe a bit of rubber isolation could cure that. I'm thinking of putting a section of inter tube rubber between the headlight shell and the bracket but a new set of rubber isolated bolts might be the way to go.
King
Thanks for the discussion re the headlight mounting bracket. There is no rubber in my mounting and although the bracket has not cracked the focusing cups in my sealed beams have broken off with great regularity. Maybe a bit of rubber isolation could cure that. I'm thinking of putting a section of inter tube rubber between the headlight shell and the bracket but a new set of rubber isolated bolts might be the way to go.
King
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VT
yes. I had to elongate the slot on my tins so the cover screws would meet up with the holes in the tree. Mark can make cups for around 60 bucks a set. They're cad plated and perfect. Bearings and races are available at any bearing shop or V-Twin. Actually, I think we sent the cup order to Taiwan in '05. I don't know what's happened with them since then. JW was the one who pushed all this stuff through management. He rolled out the old blueprints from when the first cups were made to prove his point, and compared the '49-59 cups plans with the '60-up plans and they saw that the blueprints for both cups were the same. I'm suppose to get a set when the '49-59 get finished.
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VT
there's two part numbers for them in the catalog. 37-9115 and 2108-12 That last number looks like a Colony number. Maybe there's a pic of it in Colony's catalog. I count 14 pieces all together.but a new set of rubber isolated bolts might be the way to go.
http://www.colonymachine.com/
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fourthgear
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The mount on my older Pans stock tree is OK ,but the one on the billet tree on the 65 is cracked , go figure. If it wasn't such a nice duel disk front end , I might think of changing it .
I have the front panel on the older Pan inverted , because I have both grounds going to the top screw ( head light & horn )and wanted more of the panel to secure them .Unless you are not running tins or cowling ,no one sees it any way and the wiring is not a big deal even if numbered.
I have the front panel on the older Pan inverted , because I have both grounds going to the top screw ( head light & horn )and wanted more of the panel to secure them .Unless you are not running tins or cowling ,no one sees it any way and the wiring is not a big deal even if numbered.