Terminal board behind cowl question

Electrical issues
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craig60pan
Posts: 180
Joined: Fri Dec 31, 2004 2:37 pm
Bikes: 1960 FL
1951 FL
Location: Atlanta

Terminal board behind cowl question

#1

Post by craig60pan » Mon Apr 11, 2005 2:11 am

I am ripping the old wiring out of my 60 pan and replacing with the original harness but I have a question. I have the terminal board (HD# 72301-49a) but when I try to install on the front side of the triple trees the top terminal hits the bottom handlebar bolt. Is there a stand off spacer to push the board out from the top triple tree? Anyhelp would be appreciated.
Craig60pan



VT

#2

Post by VT » Mon Apr 11, 2005 5:06 am

fiberboard terminal plate. has two short filister-head screws, one in the front edge of the top tree and the other on the front edge of the bottom tree, directly under the screw of the top tree? How could it hit the bottom handlebar bolt? You mean the riser bolt? Maybe '60 trees are different than '49-59? Pics worth a thousand words. 8)

Cotten
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Location: Central Illinois

#3

Post by Cotten » Mon Apr 11, 2005 1:13 pm

Craig!

Do you have the board installed so that the terminal screws face the front of the bike?

Does the board install at an angle?

Guest

#4

Post by Guest » Tue Apr 12, 2005 12:02 am

No I have the screws facing the rear and yes it does sit at an angle
And yes I do mean the riser bolts.
A couple of photos show how it is now but if I have the board backwards that may be the issue
Thanks for the input
CJ
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Cotten
Posts: 6791
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Location: Central Illinois

#5

Post by Cotten » Tue Apr 12, 2005 2:06 am

I cannot document this, but it makes simple common sense:

If you have tin shrouds as used before '60, you would want the terminals facing the rear since you could easily remove a back panel for access.

But this would require total removal of the cowling (windshield, spots, etc.) of '60 and later models for even the simplest maintenance. If the board faces forward, however, then you need only remove the headlamp bucket to access it.

I haven't researched differences in terminal patterns, but the bottom line is that you want to massage it in there with as much clearance as possible. At least an AMCA judge can't point at it if it's not concours.

VT

#6

Post by VT » Tue Apr 12, 2005 3:12 am

I'm in the "fork" stage of the three projects, with the '49-57 and '58-69 terminal boards exposed. There's 5 pix to post. Rigid frame board has 10 terminals. Duo-Glide has 6 terminals. '60 fork cups are taller than '59, but i don't think that's your problem.
I'm trying to hide a horn in the empty left side of the tin. How can a basic round horn be stuffed in there and secured? I don't want a trumpet horn or a round horn exposed to the elements, hanging under the steering head. There's no fixture at the top of the frame (under the gas tank) frame mount on a '54-57 frame. The round horn is a basic, no grill, V-Twin (33-0712) 6V, with no mounts except the flat-plate with two holes at each end.
The pix are of a '49-57 terminal plate. 10 terminals.
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VT

#7

Post by VT » Tue Apr 12, 2005 4:57 am

Here's a '58-up plate
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VT

#8

Post by VT » Tue Apr 12, 2005 5:55 am

CJ, your plate has 14 terminals. Mine only have 10. Maybe your terminal plate is shorter. The parts book shows the open (screw slot) end of the plate on top, no big deal though. I can measure the length of the plate. I'll post it tomorrow.
Last edited by VT on Tue Apr 12, 2005 9:59 am, edited 1 time in total.

DuoDave
Posts: 198
Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 10:45 pm

#9

Post by DuoDave » Tue Apr 12, 2005 9:31 am

VT- A bracket with a 90 degree bend coming off the bottom of the riser bolt should work to secure your horn behind the fork tins.

VT

#10

Post by VT » Tue Apr 12, 2005 9:48 am

Good idea. I'll look for suitable stock that won't vibrate and break off. Those (8") headlight brackets were hardened and rubber mounted for that reason. The V-Twin risers are rubber mounted under the bolt. I'll try to use that rubber grommet under the bolt that's already there, to absorb some shock. Thanks 8)

craig60pan
Posts: 180
Joined: Fri Dec 31, 2004 2:37 pm
Bikes: 1960 FL
1951 FL
Location: Atlanta

#11

Post by craig60pan » Tue Apr 12, 2005 12:15 pm

The board I have is a hair over 6 3/4 " and if the numbers on the board
display upright then the notch is at the bottom but not sure if that matters.
I think this is for 58-69 BT.
It looks like if I mount the screws facing forward it will clear.
Thanks for all the input.
CJ

VT

#12

Post by VT » Tue Apr 12, 2005 7:16 pm

The '49-57 plate i have is also 6-3/4".

craig60pan
Posts: 180
Joined: Fri Dec 31, 2004 2:37 pm
Bikes: 1960 FL
1951 FL
Location: Atlanta

#13

Post by craig60pan » Tue Apr 12, 2005 11:46 pm

Looks like the difference is the number of terminals
CJ

VT

#14

Post by VT » Wed Apr 13, 2005 1:20 am

My '58-69 is that thinner slab of fiberglass you see above. I don't know it's origin, maybe Mid-Cycle (early 90's) or it could be V-Twins. I haven't had to order a '58-69 board from V-Twin lately, anything I build now is rigid Knuckle or Pan.
Are your fork trees adjustable or non adjustable? Star-shaped damper knob or '60-up aluminum disc knob damper?
Last edited by VT on Wed Apr 13, 2005 3:09 am, edited 2 times in total.

craig60pan
Posts: 180
Joined: Fri Dec 31, 2004 2:37 pm
Bikes: 1960 FL
1951 FL
Location: Atlanta

#15

Post by craig60pan » Wed Apr 13, 2005 2:26 am

non-adjustable but one thing I noticed, even in the pre 60 picture above,is it seems like the board is 1/4 too short.
I'm temped to get a piece of terminal board and make one 1/4 longer
CJ

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