6V - 12V

Electrical issues
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shaker
Posts: 56
Joined: Tue Aug 09, 2005 10:23 pm
Location: down south

6V - 12V

#1

Post by shaker » Wed Apr 09, 2008 2:23 pm

Description: After about 4hrs of riding battery goes dead

Post by shaker on May 18, 2004, 12:05pm

I thought i had my problem with this fixed, was wrong was not the switch, here it is again went from 6 to 12 v , had gen rebuilt used manual reg , everything ok until i turn on lights then gen light burns very dim can only see at night ,amp gauge go's from +2 to +18 or 20. after about 4hrs of riding battery go's dead , have to turn off lights to get home . changed to low voltage solid state reg,still, no go, had gen checked again , new battery checked all wires and changed switch, no luck, also when rpm's are raised the light gets brighter , any ideas good or bad would be appreciated, if i don't find this problem soon going to sell all this crap on e-bay and put the 6v back on!!

Post by Cotten on May 18, 2004, 12:36pm

Your ampgauge reading is confusing, as the 12v unit can only put out 10 or 12 amps.
At any rate, I encountered such a circumstance on one of my altered '65s. I only found it after a plastic fuseholder installed on the lighting circuit melted down completely.
A better quality fuseholder went on, and suddenly I could see after dark!

Post by Weez on May 19, 2004, 5:01am

I swear by those Franks regulators that bolt on the end of Generator if you do need one I have had one working for well since 1979. If you do have to get more elctrical parts it cleans up the area as far as wiring goes and very easy to install. i wouldn't buy one from CCI though, but thats a personal opinion. good luck i hope its a fuse holder

Post by Cotten on May 19, 2004, 11:31am

I believe "Franks" is no longer in business.
Currently, (pardon the pun) Cycle Electric makes the best quality end-mount and conventional solid-state regulators.

Post by Plumber on May 19, 2004, 2:00pm

Go 6V. Lookit.....you don't care whether you can see at night or not. These machines are only driven at 55 mph. I can run that fast. What you want is that dim glow from a low-spark that tells viewers....hark!....cometh an antiquer!

Post by Cotten on May 20, 2004, 1:53am

Six volt 2-brush systems are capable of putting out every bit as much visibility as 12 volt systems. Even halogens are available.
And the impractical 3-brush systems can be converted to 2-brush and still stay AMCA legit for any Panhead model.
Twelve volt systems are only more convenient, and cheaper in the long run for batteries.
If you have visibility problems with a working 6-volt system, then chances are that you have resistances in the wiring harness: splices are verboten, unless soldered.
Modern repop harnesses are often un-soldered, and should have every terminal attended to before installation.
Our grandfathers and fathers certainly found the lighting adequate to run after dark!

PS: 55??
My wife's rat Pan has pulled a sidehack at 70 mph all day long, more times than I can remember. It has only met its match in a strong headwind with two adults and two children aboard, plus full picnic gear. It misfired in gusts like an airplane in stall. So I got off the Interstate.

Post by billy on May 20, 2004, 4:28am

Plumber, I agree with Cotten, A decent running Pan will 'cruise' at 70/75 no problem, all day!! ;D both mine Did!!
My Servi-car would 'cruise' 55mph all day !! Twisted tight she would hit 63+ mph!! When it was bone stock & stock gearing. & only 45"s.
I have made improvements that are not quite complete yet..But SOON!!!!! ;D
Also, you may want that dim glow of an antique headlight

Me, I run the Halogen & cars still DON'T see me!!

Post by Mbskeam on May 22, 2004, 4:55am

hello, as I sat and read this I kept thinking about where I saw something about elect franks, as a few days have past I found it in an add in The Horse mag. the web site is :www.cyclelab.net
ph 954-587-4392 I have had one of these since I got my bike. before I found this add I did a patent search to see if I could locate to see if he was still making these things but now that he is being listed in a add it kinda answers that ? dont it.
mbskeam

Post by Weez on May 22, 2004, 6:39am

Cycle Lab is a shop down here in South Florida. Casey's shop nice guy and well stocked shop. Franks is out of business, Sold the Patent to Custon Chrome or Somebody like that I still call them Franks cause mine say it on the end (they're the old ones) ALot of places have incorporated that idea onto the end cap for genie's and I would go with Cycle Electric's if they are selling/making one I like that company So it has to be good. I also plan on using one of those that click off then back on again instead of a fuse (the name can't remember) its a 20 or 25 amp and you put it in as fuse Newer bikes use em I can't for the life of me remember what they call em.....its killing me i can't remember what they call them but I will. And 12 volt swap over is mostly for conveinence....

Post by DuoDave on May 22, 2004, 3:36pm

Circuit breakers?

Post by shaker on May 24, 2004, 5:04am

i have the cycle electric, im sure it is ok , i must have a short somewhere , the bike still has some of the old big gauge wire i guess from 1949 still on it and some aftermarket , it does seam to start better, with the 12v, , one more thing i will look it up the page # later in palmers book but i read in it he said when going from relay to regulator move the gen light wire to field , wonder if that was a misprint i have mine on the A post , but tryed it on field and it will work ,one more thing , why does the amp gauge show + when the battery is dischargeing should it not show - ?

Post by Cotten on May 24, 2004, 12:14pm

Yes, the generator indicator light lead should connect to the "A" terminal in a 2-brush system.

Ammeters have reversible leads; since e-leck-trawn-ix comfuses me, I just install them so that they show discharge when the ignition and lights are turned on without the motor running. Starting the motor should bring the needle back to zero or the charge side, depending upon the state of the battery.



58flh
Posts: 3338
Joined: Sat Jun 26, 2010 1:54 pm
Bikes: 1958flh 1969sporty,had a knuckle but sold back to original owner
Location: NEW JERSEY

Re: 6V - 12V

#2

Post by 58flh » Mon Feb 06, 2012 2:14 pm

Hey guys!-----Yea I know this is a old post, but to those who still refer to em time to time,---My take on it is this!----There is nothing wrong with the 6V systems!-(you have to have a preventive maintenance schedule!),& follow it!.--I run a 12V system,with a Bosch reg. mounted on top of genny. I run a 7inch 12V H-4 bulb(halogen), in the tail I run a 1157-run,stop light-12V. At idle (950RPM)-I get 13.2-4 at the battery with a volt meter!-At (2000RPM-&up) I get 14.7 volts at the battery!.---To achieve this higher output at higher RPMs, I had to tweak the Bosch reg. a little. It is more than ideal-ideal being (14V). But we run long-trips & many times right through the night!---So with a Halogen bulb burning at HI-BEAM for a few hrs. this set-up is great for me!.-(My genny is a 65A/with top mounted reg. & stock HD armature.--I rebuild it every 2yrs. needed or not!-just like to see whats going on in there & clean it all up,grease-bering-put new seal & new cap-bering. And NEW BRUSHES!--I clean the mica in a lathe!,-just to hold-it,& I grinded my own mica cleaning tool-& its great!!, better then running a hacksaw blade between each splice!-Also more accurate!--You simply run it in untill it touches the mica lightly-then I set my feed on the apron to .000 & run it down the length of the mica channels!--.0005 at a time until im happy with the clean-up job!-Seldom do I have to go more then .001!---This gives a perfectly straight run & a sawblade in your hand just cant achieve that kind of precision!---NOW dont get me WRONG! Alot of guys do it with a sawblade & the results are great!--I started out doing them like that!-But if you have access to a lathe with a tailstock & live-center I go that route!-(just my preference). NOW I always check the cond. of the brushes!(Important)-chips,cracks,some comeapart in your hand!---Always change them every 2yrs. needed or not!.----I have a old armature thats no good!--I use it to give my new brushes the correct radius as my armature is!.--Most come with a radius already & theres nothing wrong with installing them that way!--Im just funny when it comes to precision!. & I believe every little bit counts!--For a 1-kick always ready to run machine.----Now for the BATTERY issue,---those $19.99 autozone batt. are best for lawnmowers! NOT PANHEADS!---I tried 1 & got 4 months before sighns of trouble & 6 months it was dead & DRY!!!----For a kickstart 12V Pan, running a set-up similar to mine you need a 10A--190cca--12V---(AGM) BATT>!!!,---IT will fit in your oiltank, made to take HI-HEAT,--HI-VIBRATION,& its a sealed unit! NO MORE ACID OR ACIDTRAPS TO WORRY ABOUT!--its made from heavy ABS PLASTIC. I sit mine on a 3/8s piece of oak made to fit botom of tank,& I shim all sides with a special HI-HEAT vulcanized rubber blocks!--Run 2 grounds from the NEG. pole on opposite sides of post & I run a dedicated GROUND from the REGULATOR to engine bolt.---This has served me well for over 20yrs. now & ( I ALWAYS MAKE IT HOME!).WE take long rides & my pan is my only source of transportation!-I feel for the OL-Lady sometimes when its 22 degrees, but its what we do!----Hope this helps some of the ?s that were asked!---Wheels-up & Wide-Open!-----Richie 8) For an ameter I use a old one from a early 60s car-(dashmount)--You can still find them! & if you score 1,It has to be calibrated!(very-Important!).--I had a friend do mine that is a electronics wiz!--He made the center of the guage 0/scribed a redline--then with a oscilloscope(dont even know how its spelled.)-He made graduations in it, plus & minus. To 30 on both sides--this is more then enuff for our bikes & pretty much all bikes out there!.--I was thinking on taking the face off mine & having a few laser-scribed, for a few different models.(chevy,olds,ford,ETC.---after all zero is zero!)--Mine is from a early chevy!---And to hook it up is easy----2-leads 12inches long with alligator clips.----Richie

superp
Posts: 16
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2011 2:52 pm
Bikes: 64FL, with shovel heads
Location: Michigan

Re: 6V - 12V

#3

Post by superp » Tue Jun 05, 2012 12:22 am

58-

Where do you buy your 10A 12V AGM batteries? I have been looking around, but can't find the exact specs you have. I think anywhere between 8A to 10A should be good for me right? I have a 64FL kick start. Been having charging issues again. Thinking about just splurging for a CE gen/reg and an AGM battery.

58flh
Posts: 3338
Joined: Sat Jun 26, 2010 1:54 pm
Bikes: 1958flh 1969sporty,had a knuckle but sold back to original owner
Location: NEW JERSEY

Re: 6V - 12V

#4

Post by 58flh » Tue Jun 05, 2012 1:01 pm

SUPERB---I use to get the $20 batts. from autozone & change out every 10 or 11 months!--Then I read about the AGM-BATTS. I got mine from AUTOZONE! It was $100 even with tax! & it fits in my tank sideways!-I put the NEG. down to bottom on a nice piece of oak & wedge the battery with flat 1/2 to 1/4 to 1/8 pieces of vulcanized flat rubber! Made for Glass setting & easy to get!--(Crl, & grainger carry glazing rubber shims!)-CHEAP! AS far as I read about the AGM I got from the papers that came with it!---ITS can take HI-HEAT & HI-VIBRATIONS! ) So far its been holding 12.82-Volts & thats running my big halogen at HI-BEAM for a half hr. in early morning going on a ride threw a park with no lighting,or should I say not enuff!.--Then switching to low-beam & thats on in day-riding!---I cant complain! its a GOOD BATT.--For electric-start bikes it has 340CCA!--The same BATT. in a cycle shop was $45 more!(ofcoarse).---GOOD-LUCK,--RICHIE 8)

superp
Posts: 16
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2011 2:52 pm
Bikes: 64FL, with shovel heads
Location: Michigan

Re: 6V - 12V

#5

Post by superp » Sun Jun 17, 2012 1:11 pm

58flh wrote:SUPERB---I use to get the $20 batts. from autozone & change out every 10 or 11 months!--Then I read about the AGM-BATTS. I got mine from AUTOZONE! It was $100 even with tax! & it fits in my tank sideways!-I put the NEG. down to bottom on a nice piece of oak & wedge the battery with flat 1/2 to 1/4 to 1/8 pieces of vulcanized flat rubber! Made for Glass setting & easy to get!--(Crl, & grainger carry glazing rubber shims!)-CHEAP! AS far as I read about the AGM I got from the papers that came with it!---ITS can take HI-HEAT & HI-VIBRATIONS! ) So far its been holding 12.82-Volts & thats running my big halogen at HI-BEAM for a half hr. in early morning going on a ride threw a park with no lighting,or should I say not enuff!.--Then switching to low-beam & thats on in day-riding!---I cant complain! its a GOOD BATT.--For electric-start bikes it has 340CCA!--The same BATT. in a cycle shop was $45 more!(ofcoarse).---GOOD-LUCK,--RICHIE 8)
Ritchie, what gennie/reg setup are you using? I am about to dump some cash and replace my entire system with an AGM Battery& CE gen/reg. For 2 years I haven't been able to get my setup to charge right.

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