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Rear Brake Tail Lamp Switch Assembly

Electrical issues
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VintageTwin
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Rear Brake Tail Lamp Switch Assembly

#1

Post by VintageTwin » Mon Nov 17, 2008 5:03 am

brk187yp4.jpg
Here's the parts that come with the mechanical rear brake kit. The switch bolts to the frame clamp that also anchors the exhaust's flat-pipe. Not sure how it connects beyond that. Does the spring connect to the pull pole of the switch? Or does the wire connect to the switch?
The parts book shows the brake pedal as having a heavy spring. I need to get a pedal spring.
That brake rod clamp is unique. The pin in it has a half-circle ground out. The pin isn't a swedge fit. It's a loose fit. You have to install the clamp on the rod first, then tighten the nut. The half-moon in the pin then grips the rod, because the pin can slide. Cool.
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john HD
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Re: Rear Brake Tail Lamp Switch Assembly

#2

Post by john HD » Mon Nov 17, 2008 12:40 pm

mine is assembled from left to right switch, spring, hook, clamp.

you can exchange the nut on the clamp with a wing nut so you can adjust it on the road without tools.

just like the oem ones were.

john

VintageTwin
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Re: Rear Brake Tail Lamp Switch Assembly

#3

Post by VintageTwin » Mon Nov 17, 2008 3:34 pm

Thanks! Looking at the 1953 in Palmer's book, I can see the spring (as a bright mass) just after the switch. Wasn't sure though. Yes, good point about the Wingnut - in search of the right one. And I found an inline drawing of the switch assembly on pg. 119 of the orange parts book. I'll post it.
The switch face on mine barely clears the early S&S pump, but it does.
brkpdl188cg4.jpg
Not sure about which hole the brake rod clevis pin connects to. What are all the holes for (from top to bottom)?
Palmer's book describes this pedal as late-'37 to '38. There's a notch for the '38 parking brake accessory and the top hole is for a parking brake pivot stud. The second hole down is a mystery. The third hole (1/4", near the edge) is for the spring that hooks to the hole through the rear foot board mount. The 4th hole is where I've fitted the brake rod clevis.

I'm stripping the paint. The pedal's parked. Stripper won't affect whatever area is still Parkerize.
scan10002iw7.jpg
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Last edited by Anonymous on Tue Nov 18, 2008 5:06 pm, edited 2 times in total.

VintageTwin
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Re: Rear Brake Tail Lamp Switch Assembly

#4

Post by VintageTwin » Tue Nov 18, 2008 4:45 am

brkswtch193wa6.jpg
I needed to bend the switch base so the plunger would point towards the brake rod. If I take the slack out of the pull wire, it touches the cam cover when the brake pedal is pushed. That's not right. I might have to space the switch out from the mount some to gain clearance.
Of course, if I had nuts on each end of the clevis, maybe the brake rod wouldn't turn on it's own.....d-u-h-h.
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Re: Rear Brake Tail Lamp Switch Assembly

#5

Post by VintageTwin » Wed Nov 19, 2008 1:44 am

Zaaaaaaaaap :!: Wow. I bent my switch on my own reasoning and then later was forced into thinking of a spacer for the first time ever. Then you show up with pics of exactly what I meant, but you installed them years ago.
There's something to that. Manifold implications - if you think about connective remedies to putting one of these kit-monsters on the road, and making them work like they look like they should.
People look at the "spring and hook" Rube - World War 2 engineering - and their mind likes it.
S&S made their pump to allow for the switch (if the OE switches are angled-out as well. Anybody have an OE setup?)
I'm making notes of what you have and and my next problem is:
I have too much pedal. I pulled the brake switch plunger out as much as it will travel and made a mark (so I don't over-pull it when I'm testing the pedal travel).
It seems like the front brake rod nut is for reducing pedal travel. The back rod adjustment (nut) is for controlling brake shaft arm travel (or am I over-thinking the assembly?)
With the pedal back, the pedal spring (big spring) rattles around, but still stays hooked in the rear foot board bracket. I have the brake drum lever pulled forward some, to where when all hooked up, the rear wheel turns without scraping, and then with about an 1/8" of pull, the shoes start to make drum contact. That's all good.
I think my next adjustments [since the left side (long) brake rod is a non-adjustabel hook], are at those two brake (short) rod nuts, but the rattling (big) pedal spring doesn't seem entirely correct either, but ya' can't change the spring steel hook shank length.
The wire-hook is spring steel too and won't bend easily, so it stays open on the big end, as I see. All good.
I need to reconfigure my switch and spring and see what I have. Thanks. Clear pics.
Last edited by Anonymous on Wed Nov 19, 2008 3:08 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Rear Brake Tail Lamp Switch Assembly

#6

Post by john HD » Wed Nov 19, 2008 2:58 am

kirk,

try to get it close, so that the brake light comes on when depressed.

after you have it on the road you can fine tune it for the correct "feel" on the brake pedal that suits you.

john

ps, this photo might help....
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VintageTwin
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Re: Rear Brake Tail Lamp Switch Assembly

#7

Post by VintageTwin » Wed Nov 19, 2008 3:11 am

Image mbskeams (42280-35) "Stop light pull wire stud & brake lock" is tilted over towards the foot board more than mine, which allows alignment to the plunger's angle.
:lol: Look at the clearance using the iron pump. Nice shot. Wow those OE guys have it easy. Everything bolts right up. The hardest part is finding the part. Forgot what that was like.
No spacer on the OE, but the switch is angled a little. This is some wild fun trying to keep the machines looking original. V-Twin's iron (12-1947) pump looks real. I have one that's '41-49, but the chain oiler needle has no tapered pump body seat, and oil floods non-stop through to the breather tube (and on the ground). The pump would work on a belt drive though.
I need to look through my spacer box and find something to move that switch outboard.
••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
I got riveted foot boards from Kick-Start, back when. He has black Glide bucket headlights too.

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Re: Rear Brake Tail Lamp Switch Assembly

#8

Post by mbskeam » Wed Nov 19, 2008 4:34 am

I use to have a OEM pump with the same setup, it will fit fine with the same spacer.....

mbskeam

VT

Re: Rear Brake Tail Lamp Switch Assembly

#9

Post by VT » Thu Nov 20, 2008 12:08 am

Maybe I can use a cad plated tool box spacer.
brkswtch2001gq5.jpg
64474-40 tool box mounting spacer. The spacer's one inch thick.

Image
More like it :!: The pedal's all the way back. You can barely see the big spring's hook trying to back out of the foot board mount hole. The springs still connected, but it'll rattle around when I'm driving around.
brkswtuc9.jpg
I made a black mark when the plunger is at it's maximum pull, but I think the plunger needs to be pulled out to the max. or the small spring will flop around loose when the pedal's pulled back to running mode.
I'll work with the short brake rod some more. Thanks for all the help.
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VT

Re: Rear Brake Tail Lamp Switch Assembly

#10

Post by VT » Fri Dec 19, 2008 3:56 am

brkswtch1255vx8.jpg
I brought the wires under to the switch and it's keeps the wires out of the way.
brakeswitch3253yh3.jpg
brakeswtch254ca5.jpg
The pedal and bracket are parkered from V-Twin. My OE pedal assembly was sloppy. The pedal shook around on the bracket axle. It made a big difference in the overall brake operation by installing the new assembly.
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