I broke the rules...

Electrical issues
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I broke the rules...


Post by pat » Wed Jan 21, 2009 8:49 pm

Author: pat

Went to adjust my clutch a little and started tampering with the timing too.
Now she won't hold an idle nor stay running a length of time.
I observe;
1. Flywheel timing mark is positioned per the Panhead service manual.
2. Cam lobe mark is even with fiber follower on the points.
3. Point gap is .022

It was running fine before I messed with it, and I don't understand the night/day condition change.
Loose nut (me) behind the circuit breaker?
What am I missing to check?

Thanks in advance.

Post by kell

You have a single-point manual advance breaker.
You changed only the timing (adjuster bolt).
Supposedly lining up the fiber with the mark on the shaft will get the timing close enough to start the bike, but it's not real accurate.
Do you know how to time it with a small bulb hooked up to the points to show you the exact point in time where the points open, so you can get the timing exact? If you're unfamiliar with the process we can walk you through it.

Post by dirtydistrict

Static time is well enough for a kick start but it does'nt take care about all lash between parts on these old ladies, the best is to strobe it after to get something really accurate

Post by kell

So there you have it 53rigid, static timing is better than aligning it visually, and a timing light is best. Why don't you static time it next, and see if it runs ok? Get a taillight bulb with some wires and alligator clips and connect one end to the screw where the spring and condenser wire are secured, and connect to ground with the other end. Line up your timing mark on the flywheel, then rotate the breaker. The light bulb turning on and off will tell you the exact point at which the points open, and you can tighten the adjuster nut so the breaker is in that position at full advance. It will run ok, though it could be a few degrees off as dirt says. You can get a timing light next and spray yourself.

Post by pat

Thanks guys!
I went through it again and noticed the lobe mark was not scribed on the high point of the cam. I realigned the fiber to the high point, reset the point gap, and voila!
Potato....Potato.... Potato!

I'm gonna print these tips to put in my manual in case I brain fart again!

Post by dereborn

Ain't that just the beauty of these ol'´Ladies? THere IS ALWAYS a logical cause/solution to the problem, no "Data box" or "Authorized Mechanics Only" stuff! Good for you Rigid! Drive Safe!

Post by weezeo

Timing it on either peak is OK one is for front cylinder other is rear, and like was said that just gets ya close then its good to pull the plug and do a light test like an auto need 2 people to do it rite and just barely loosen distrib. as it will start to fly around @ 2000 rpm were it should be timed at. I time mine on both cylinders and also time to .022, plugs @ .028 the wide is rear, narrow lobe is front(cylinder) mine I do once a month as they tend to loosen or wear easily. change frequently also. We get to ride yr round down here in So.Florida so it gets more wear and tear.

Post by cotten

You do not need to rev it to any particular RPM if it is a manual advance. The strobe will work fine at idle.

Post by pat

I'll need help with stobe timing, and I'm gonna buy one of these so it's not so messy!

Clear, polished acrylic timing plug allows viewing of timing marks at full advance RPM
Eliminates oil spray

CC493348 Long $4.95
CC492497 Short $3.95

I love this Pan, if it's all I ever own, I'll be a happy guy! ;D

Post by cotten

Those plugs give a very, very, clear magnified view of......... your oil.

If you screw it in far enough, the wheels will shave its own clearance into it. Then it works great for that single occasion. (But where did all that plastic go??)

Post by vintagetwin

Floating in the sump.

Post by dirtydistrict

I use 20W50 for my leather shoes, from time to time, a little spray right on my face during timing job gives me that kind of smooth skin women love soooo much.
A pan for life.

Post by weezeo

what all are trying to say is the clear plug is worthless
(imho) all you see is oil. I don't know bout manual advance but mine is auto and I time it @ about 1500 - 2000 rpms with a timing lite. 53 rider did you turn the dist. base? or just play with the gap? if you moved the base by loosen the nut/clamp you will have to go thru the timing procedure again.

Post by pat

Didn't touch the distributor....whew!
I hand out at my favorite shop, and the head wrench there lets me help out.
He was timing a shovel with a clear plug, and he didn't have a problem seeing the timing mark.
He offered me one of his shorty clear plugs for me to time my bike, but I'd feel crappy if it got trashed.
I'll take the cautions under advisement, for now the "53 is running a-ok.

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If the Pans been warmed up and leaned to the right some !


Post by Motorcyclemike » Mon Aug 31, 2009 3:29 am

If you have help to do the plastic timing plug set UP and lean the bike to the right some while you are looking for the timing mark.....the oil will not be flipped up on the area where the mark is as bad.......and if the oils warmed up.....its even easier to get it all on the other side away from the fly wheel timing mark.

Thats my 3 cents worth !

Mike n Kansas.

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