proper clutch springs for mouse trap

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Mr Mach1
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proper clutch springs for mouse trap

#1

Post by Mr Mach1 » Sun Mar 18, 2012 1:12 am

I've replaced the 3" belt with a 1 1/2" unit and a tin primary. I want to use the clutch I have but I read in the knowledge base about mouse trap springs being different from foot clutch. The bike a had an eliminator kit installed with the short clutch arm. Can these springs work? Any easy way to compress them so I can attach the nuts?
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RUBONE
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Re: proper clutch springs for mouse trap

#2

Post by RUBONE » Sun Mar 18, 2012 1:33 am

Those springs should work fine. The springs were softened up when the mousetrap was eliminated but any of them will work if adjusted properly.
Take the pressure plate off the clutch and lay it on the bench. Remove the center adjusting screw nut and back the screw out as far as it will go and still be engaged in the plate. Arrange the springs on the pressure plate where they belong. All 10! Lay the spring retainer plate on them lining up the holes. Your center adjuster should be sticking up above the retainer plate. Put a large washer ( a fender washer or an old valve collar work well, but anything you can get on there will work) over the center stud and over the retainer plate. Start the nut back onto the adjuster screw, tightening it to compress the springs. Put the assembly on the hub, making sure the holes line up. continue to compress the spring pack until you can start the stud nuts. Once thew stud nuts are started you can remove the large washer. Adjust the spring pack to the right tension making sure it runs flat! Adjust the center screw and tighten the nut. Adjust the mousetrap. You are done, go foa test ride!
Robbie

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Re: proper clutch springs for mouse trap

#3

Post by james » Sun Mar 18, 2012 1:50 am

Hey whats the deal with your oil breather blowing into your new belt drive?
Looks like you have to take things apart and redirect the breather vapor or it's curtains for your belt.

Jim
Top of the evening to ya sir
Happy St Patricks day (blimey)

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Re: proper clutch springs for mouse trap

#4

Post by caschnd1 » Sun Mar 18, 2012 2:56 am

I've used those blue springs for many years. They work real well. Robbie told you how to compress them. I can't add anything to that. Those springs do make for a pretty tough clutch pull. My left hand and forearm tendons hurt bad after a couple hours of stop & go traffic. This week I broke down and installed a Rivera Pro Clutch. Much easier to pull and a very positive lock-up when released.

-Craig

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Re: proper clutch springs for mouse trap

#5

Post by panhead_kicker » Sun Mar 18, 2012 3:31 am

I was thinking when the mouse trap was replaced in 68?, the springs changed from the stiff to the soft springs but also two more clutch plates were added to the pack. I always assumed the extra plates made up for less pressure from the softer springs. How many plates are you using?

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Re: proper clutch springs for mouse trap

#6

Post by drinner-okc » Sun Mar 18, 2012 4:07 am

If I can ask a couple questions....I am working on a 61FLH a friend just brought over from Arkansas.
What brand is this belt drive? It is the same as this 61 has. (and it is brand spanking new)
When you put it together could you get enough forward travel on the transmission to get it on easily & adjust the tension?
Did you need any shims behind the inside deflector to clear the bearing nut?
thanks
drinner

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Re: proper clutch springs for mouse trap

#7

Post by TimmyV » Sun Mar 18, 2012 1:44 pm

Drinner, when I got my '61 Pan, it already had a BDL belt drive primary, which I replaced with new due to teeth wear. However, it appeared that the slots on my transmission plate had been previously elongated slightly to allow the belt to be installed easily. Seems like I've heard others say they had to do the same thing to get the belt drive to fit properly. Just my .02

p.s. No shims required for me

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Re: proper clutch springs for mouse trap

#8

Post by Mr Mach1 » Sun Mar 18, 2012 5:25 pm

james wrote:Hey whats the deal with your oil breather blowing into your new belt drive?
Looks like you have to take things apart and redirect the breather vapor or it's curtains for your belt.

Jim
Top of the evening to ya sir
Happy St Patricks day (blimey)
I'm gonna redirect the breather back out the cover to blow on the chain. I saw a post in the knowledge base that did this.

Mr Mach1
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Re: proper clutch springs for mouse trap

#9

Post by Mr Mach1 » Sun Mar 18, 2012 5:29 pm

drinner-okc wrote:If I can ask a couple questions....I am working on a 61FLH a friend just brought over from Arkansas.
What brand is this belt drive? It is the same as this 61 has. (and it is brand spanking new)
When you put it together could you get enough forward travel on the transmission to get it on easily & adjust the tension?
Did you need any shims behind the inside deflector to clear the bearing nut?
thanks
drinner
It's a BDL 8mm kit. The bike had a 3" belt when I bought so I can't speak to the slot mod but I did have to crank the trans all the way forward.

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Re: proper clutch springs for mouse trap

#10

Post by Bosheff » Mon Mar 19, 2012 2:47 am

I have mixed and matched (pre 68 and 68 and later) clutch springs with 3 1/2 friction plate setups as well as 5 plate setups. The clutches don't know or care what springs you use. It's all about whether or not the clutch grabs and holds. Whether yer left hand can take it or not is another thing....bosheff

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Re: proper clutch springs for mouse trap

#11

Post by Hog54 » Mon Mar 19, 2012 2:51 am

Yeah I dont ever remember asking for special springs.I just ask for clutch springs.Its how you adjust them that matters.

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Re: proper clutch springs for mouse trap

#12

Post by Mr Mach1 » Fri Mar 23, 2012 3:06 am

RUBONE wrote:Those springs should work fine. The springs were softened up when the mousetrap was eliminated but any of them will work if adjusted properly.
Take the pressure plate off the clutch and lay it on the bench. Remove the center adjusting screw nut and back the screw out as far as it will go and still be engaged in the plate. Arrange the springs on the pressure plate where they belong. All 10! Lay the spring retainer plate on them lining up the holes. Your center adjuster should be sticking up above the retainer plate. Put a large washer ( a fender washer or an old valve collar work well, but anything you can get on there will work) over the center stud and over the retainer plate. Start the nut back onto the adjuster screw, tightening it to compress the springs. Put the assembly on the hub, making sure the holes line up. continue to compress the spring pack until you can start the stud nuts. Once thew stud nuts are started you can remove the large washer. Adjust the spring pack to the right tension making sure it runs flat! Adjust the center screw and tighten the nut. Adjust the mousetrap. You are done, go foa test ride!
Robbie
Sounds like a good plan. I'll give it a try this weekend.

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Re: proper clutch springs for mouse trap

#13

Post by Mr Mach1 » Fri Mar 23, 2012 3:09 am

panhead_kicker wrote:I was thinking when the mouse trap was replaced in 68?, the springs changed from the stiff to the soft springs but also two more clutch plates were added to the pack. I always assumed the extra plates made up for less pressure from the softer springs. How many plates are you using?
Its got five friction and four steels.

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Re: proper clutch springs for mouse trap

#14

Post by Mr Mach1 » Fri Mar 23, 2012 3:14 am

When I pulled the clutch there was oil on the back of the hub and on the bearings. Should the bearings be greased, oiled or will the trans take care of it?

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Re: proper clutch springs for mouse trap

#15

Post by panhead_kicker » Fri Mar 23, 2012 3:24 am

Mr Mach1 wrote:Should the bearings be greased, oiled or will the trans take care of it?
The service manual calls for grease . It also sounds like you are running the right number of plates for the softer springs.

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