Clutch Question, again

Transmission, clutch, chains and belts
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Scrap
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Clutch Question, again

#1

Post by Scrap » Sat Sep 15, 2012 2:31 am

RE: 57 FL, mousetrap eliminator, stock 3 stud hub, 68 style clutch pack, 4 friction discs, 3 anti rattle steel discs.(no spring disc.). Everything cleaned up, new HD factory friction discs & springs. After sitting since 1980, I'm about ready to take it off the lift. It's been awhile, so first question. With the bike in 1st gear, the clutch lever pulled in and seeing proper movement of the push rod, the clutch does not release and the rear wheel moves with the stroke of the kick-starter. Is this normal with a motor that is not running and clutch discs that have never seen service? Do the discs need to burnish themselves a bit in order to obtain slippage? Second question, (probably related to the first) with tranny in neutral and the spring tension adjusting nuts backed off as far as possible, the kick-starter will rotate the engine through the compression cycles. I have not actually taken a reading with a gauge but it feels like and sounds like its making good compression.
Thanks



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Re: Clutch Question, again

#2

Post by jdpan » Sat Sep 15, 2012 3:13 am

How do the clutch friction discs fit over the hub studs? If they don't slide on freely, you'll have the scenario you describe. Best to put the bike on the ground and see if it wants to lunge forward in gear...

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Re: Clutch Question, again

#3

Post by Scrap » Sat Sep 15, 2012 3:54 am

jdpan wrote:How do the clutch friction discs fit over the hub studs? If they don't slide on freely, you'll have the scenario you describe. Best to put the bike on the ground and see if it wants to lunge forward in gear...
The discs do not bind at all. Everything was in working order when last ridden. Only thing different is new friction discs and springs. You suspect that on the ground with motor running, it will operate as it should?

As a side note, I was surprised when I received a new genuine HD clutch cable from the dealer. My old one looked like it came from the Brooklyn bridge. The new one isn't much bigger than a throttle cable. It was explained to me that it's new technology, more slippery surfaces's, stronger stuff......it's official, it's new and improved.

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Re: Clutch Question, again

#4

Post by RUBONE » Sat Sep 15, 2012 4:04 am

Why are you kicking it in gear? When you do you are driving the mainshaft and if a gear is engaged it will turn the wheel! You are confusing disengagement with mechanical connections. Put it in neutral, pull in (or step on) the clutch. If the engine is disengaged form the transmission the clutch is fine.
Robbie

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Re: Clutch Question, again

#5

Post by Scrap » Sat Sep 15, 2012 4:27 am

RUBONE wrote:Why are you kicking it in gear? When you do you are driving the mainshaft and if a gear is engaged it will turn the wheel! You are confusing disengagement with mechanical connections. Put it in neutral, pull in (or step on) the clutch. If the engine is disengaged form the transmission the clutch is fine.
Robbie
Well, that was simple. My kids are right, I really don't have a clue.....thanks for confirming their suspicions.

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Re: Clutch Question, again

#6

Post by jdpan » Sat Sep 15, 2012 6:08 am

lmfao!

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Re: Clutch Question, again

#7

Post by 58flh » Sat Sep 15, 2012 12:57 pm

Just because you pulled the lever in & bike was in first ,The wheel will tend to spin-(you might have a lunger--I know my spelling sucks). You wont know for sure till its running on the ground & you take-off!--Ride it till its up to temps. And when your sitting at a light , put it in first & if you feel the bike is jerky , like the clutch is catching-(rubbing) somewhere Thats an easy fix! If you can run all the gears 1-thru 4 & back to Neautral, Your good to go!--I achieved this on mine without the use of a Tamer or any other gadget. It takes patience & alot of ADJ. center adj.,cable & above all make sure your hub doesent wobble past its limits!---The rest will come!--NOW IM not saying if the bike jumps a little dont ride it!--BUT if you have to APPLY BRAKE to hold it ,Then redo ADJs. ALOT of guys are running with grabby clutches!--Its a commen phenominon with our pans & what have you!. On my clutchpak im running 1disc less!--Its easy on the lever --2 fingers to fully bottom it1 & no slipage as I can burn rubber if I want to.-(I DONT!!).--its a 3-nut set-up as yours, & for the first time I put in a ENERGY-ONE KEVLAR Clutch pak in it!. In march or april & 2400+ miles later no problems!. I have always used standard HD-Clutches, But my WALLET IS EMPTY!!!-(very empty at the moment)-so I got the cheapest KEVLAR clutch I could find!--It was from JP & cost $72!. Just incase you or anybody else is interested.---Patience will payoff!---GOOD-LUCK,With Respect---RICHIE 8)

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Re: Clutch Question, again

#8

Post by Scrap » Sat Sep 15, 2012 4:06 pm

by the way, with 3 steel &* 4 friction discs, no 1/2 disc, late style long skinny springs, what should the distance from the pressure plate to the spring collar be. The 13/16th figure doesn't work. I kind of remember counting three exposed threads on the studs when I did this back in the 70's as a starting point.
Thanks

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