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adjusting clutch

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65eglide
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adjusting clutch

#1

Post by 65eglide » Tue May 07, 2013 5:01 pm

After determining that I don't have the stock 65 clutch, more like post 68
Would the best way to start adjusting this is to turn the nuts down until the kicker stop slipping.
Since i can't use either the 31/32 or 1-1/32 measurements.

interesting photo on the inside of the primary when Ipulled it apart, looks as if the previous owner tried the longer springs
which cause the retainer to rub against the outter primary
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Re: adjusting clutch

#2

Post by 1950Panhead » Tue May 07, 2013 7:59 pm

Buy a set of springs and set at 1"
Check friction plates, replace if shot.
Jerry

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Re: adjusting clutch

#3

Post by 65eglide » Wed May 08, 2013 12:22 am

I measured the spring height according to the manuals that I have and there right were they should be.
even with new springs I would not even get close to the 1" measurement, unless I went with the longer post 67 ones.
The clutch worked fine before the teardown, just wanted a good starting place
I did notice that after setting up the mousetrap and clutch rod,when I pull the clutch lever and watch the pressure plate seems the bottom of the plate comes out first then the rest, could one of the plates be hanging up?

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Re: adjusting clutch

#4

Post by jdpan » Wed May 08, 2013 1:17 am

How much play is there between the adjustment screw and the clutch rod in the trans? It;s possible that there's too many plates in the hub as well....

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Re: adjusting clutch

#5

Post by 65eglide » Wed May 08, 2013 1:27 am

there is no play, clutch lever is adjusted according to manual 1/2 " away from starter
clutch rod itself has around 1/16 play in the clutch lever
just got finished setting up the mousetrap and basically had to tighten the booster spring to it's furthest point, but I can now pull clutch with little effort

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Re: adjusting clutch

#6

Post by jdpan » Wed May 08, 2013 1:39 am

I'm referring to the adjustment between 45 and 49 according to this schematic.. There needs to be some gap to ensure solid clutch engagement.
http://img.jpcycles.com/zoom/6100065_B.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Re: adjusting clutch

#7

Post by 65eglide » Wed May 08, 2013 2:30 am

oh ok, I've got between 1/4 and 1/2 play there

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Re: adjusting clutch

#8

Post by jdpan » Wed May 08, 2013 3:32 am

65eglide wrote:oh ok, I've got between 1/4 and 1/2 play there
That's a lot, should be like 1/16" to 1/8" I believe, just enough to ensure solid engagement. If you have that much play and it's still slipping, it's either the plates are shot or the springs aren't adjusted correctly.

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Re: adjusting clutch

#9

Post by 65eglide » Wed May 08, 2013 4:00 am

sorry , ya i got about 1/8

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Re: adjusting clutch

#10

Post by 65eglide » Wed May 08, 2013 12:26 pm

I did notice this morning, after turning clutch with kicker a few times, now the pressure plate release evenly all around.
so I'm wondering if it's only in that one spot, what would cause that, sticking plate maybe?

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Re: adjusting clutch

#11

Post by 58flh » Wed May 08, 2013 1:47 pm

Or a warped one if not sticking!----Loosen everything up & start from scratch!.----Pull the discs & friction pads!,-Clean EVERYTHING to the eat-off it stage!.--Now take a disc & slide it into the clean hub!,-pull it out & it should move EASILY!!!! no snaging anyplace!----Do this for all discs!--What I do is file all the corners with a -(millsmooth File).-Even if there NEW from a BOX.--Also check the steel discs for warping & heat-spots--(purplish--brown color on the discs!)---Any burnt or warped ones MUST BE REPLACED!--Now for the driction pads!--Take a DRILL & DRILL the holes that slide over the studs where the 3-nuts are on!--Drill them 1/64 LARGER!--& they should SLIDE FREELY on the studs!.-ASSUMING the STUDS arent bent!--If bent ,Tap it lightly using a small deadblow or just bend by hand!--(if they are bent It will be so minimal!).Now that you have the steels going in & out freely & your Friction discs slip on & off EASILY!--Its time to take a stiff oil-paint-brush or a Q-TIP! & ---VERY, LIGHTLY GREASE the CHANNELS in the clutch-hub!--LIGHTLY!. Check your springs, & if good start putting them on!.--Now the Presure-plate if ALUM. will most likely be warped some!--Find the Hi-spot & Do not take to much ALUM. off!!!--Alot of bikes are running with warped p-plates!---Ok so now your happy with the Plates -(all of them ) should walk in & out of the hub without ANY hangups!.--Start the bolts & Keep the same amount of turns EQUALLY!---Get to the 31/32 area!---(this 31/32 is a starting point!--Its not written in stone that it HAS TO BE 31/32! :roll: .-It puts you in the ballpark!---Kick bike over,--if slipping --give each nut another full turn!--Kick bike over again a few times.--If slips then continue until it spins the motor EVERY-KICK!.--Now back to the WARPED PRESURE-PLATE!--(look & see how the clutch is being released & put back to grabing position.--If rhe plates & discs are being EVENLY depressed & released ,Then Leave the ADJ.-nuts alone!---If you see that they are being released & 1-side makes contact before the others Then you can Tighten the BOLT that needs the x-tra!--(caution---do not go more then 2-turns!)--If it dont even out in those 2-turns Work on the PRESSURE-PLATE!--Maybe a new one or a nice one from a swapmeet!.Assuming that all has progressed good.-Then tighten your center screw until it touches the shaft. Lock the nut & apply & release a few times!--If its releasing & depressing Your CLUTCH should be GOOD!. Now FREEPLAY at the handle!---This should have been done before the last step!-Still drinking coffee :lol: .I set mine to about an eighth, 1/8 on the handle!--now watch the whole clutch release & Grab a few times!--If alls well Tifgren the CENTER-NUT-(dont forget) & go for a ride!--Get her good & hot put 20-30 miles on it & shutdown somewhere for a cold one or a smoke --NOW try to KICKSTART the BIKE!--If clutch dont slip!--(DONE).--If it slips & catches sometimes ,Then another turn on the 3-stud-bolts should do the trick!--If not maybe 1 & a half more turns on each!---Now after its set-up your going to have to reset your FREEPLAY on the CABLE again!--You now should have a good working clutch!,----AS LONG as the SHAFTS are PARALELL to eachother &/ the clutch basket rollers are good!--you will have no need for a tamer! & a proper working clutch!---Respectfully---RICHIE

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Re: adjusting clutch

#12

Post by 65eglide » Wed May 08, 2013 2:31 pm

thanks for the info, pressure plate is warped a little, since it will be awhile before this is back on the road
I'm just going to replace the clutch, since the 65's dont have a derby cover it's a pain once everythings back togther to adjust it, (drain and remove outter primary, remove floorboards ,remove exhaust etc.) so while it's all apart right now i'll just get new plates and pressure plate, springs . before i go and buy all new, first I'll try to fix the pressure plate then see how that goes

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Re: adjusting clutch

#13

Post by 58flh » Wed May 08, 2013 2:44 pm

E-GLIDE!---When buying springs get the ones that are STOCK or Closest to stock!--& you dont have to pay Mega-bucks for a good Clutch-pak!---I paid $72 for mine & its a ENERGY-ONE Kevlar clutch!--Im on my second year this year & I have 14,000 & change on it & it works GREAT!---They say to soak Kevlar discs in ATF-for 20min. I let mine sit overnight!--Wiped them dry & all is good!---They didnt expand any -(like when water touches a sponge)--I filed all SHARP-CORNERS with a File before I even checked them!-Also I opened the holes 1/64-larger then they were!--Cleaned it all nice & lightly greased the hubs channels & put it together!--(sucess!). Not a bad clutch eighther!.----RICHIE 8)

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