WLC 1942 with Goulding sidecar clutch problem

Transmission, clutch, chains and belts
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WLC 1942 with Goulding sidecar clutch problem


Post by ajohnson@pjsnet.com » Sat Apr 07, 2007 9:31 pm

Post by ajohnson@pjsnet.com on May 6, 2002, 11:50am

I'm having a problem with the clutch. I will try again to adjust it. Here's what happens. I'm in first, levers pushed in. As I let out the clutch is seems to wnat to move then just grabs and jerks forward. It's a bitch at stop lights and the such. I'm not sure if it's the tranny or the clutch causing the problem..

Any idea's?


Post by SoreAss on Nov 8, 2002, 2:48am

I"m new to this but ......
Did you check the TEETH on your clutch gear.....??
Good Luck


Post by 45 Rider on Feb 2, 2003, 5:31am

Is the bike jerking in all gears or just first? Are you setting the clutch adjustment according to the manual? If in all gears either adjustment is wrong or you may have oil soaked clutch plates or just plain worn out ones. Barnett makes a replacement clutch set that will take some oil and still hold. Worst case could be a bad gear if only jerking in first and/or all gears. I have one 45 that jerks in second, needing a rebuild. You may notice metal shavings in the oil. Stick a long magnet into the filler hole, such as an extendable magnetic pickup wand to see if shavings are accumulating to give you a clue. Be sure to check oil level with the bike straight up. level should be up to the top of the threads. The output sprocket looses oil slowly as the only seal on that side is the leather or fiber located on the rotating sprocket itself. They do wear out.
Good luck. 45's are a reliable bike.

Post by warhog on Nov 5, 2003, 5:12am

Hi Allan,
I am having a similar problem with my '42 WLC as well. I just replaced the clutch plates (Barnett) and throw out bearing. I have adjusted the clutch as far as can both ways (in and out) and still get a stuttering grab (in first only tho). I will be watching your post for any tips... good luck!


Post by 45 Parts Depot on Nov 6, 2003, 9:16am

One thing you can do to reduce the stress and stain on the transmission and engine is to install a belt drive. It's a lot more forgiving than the chain / sprocket setup. The belt dampens the engine pulses and also helps a chattering clutch.
As for a chattering clutch, adding a diaphragm is the best option. I keep promoting this because it actually works!! The 10-spring setup is antiquated and you don't always have even tension on the clutches, which is one reason it chatters. The diaphragm clutch pack keeps an even load on the entire clutch assembly. It acts kinda like a compound bow. It's easy to release, but has a much higher holding strength than the spring set-up when engaged. If you're worried about originality,........ it's hidden.
Something new that we're working on to put to rest the quality of "our" reproduction parts is; anything that has an (fmc) after the discription, now carries a 2-year warranty. These are parts made by our own manufacturers and engineers. Our Springer forks and handlebars carry a "Lifetime Warranty" and our interchangeable hubs have a 5-Year warranty. Almost 1500 parts and accessories we produce, including the belt drive will have this warranty now. The site is not completely updated, it should be in about 4-6 weeks.



Post by DuoDave on Nov 7, 2003, 4:31pm

Hey guys, check out my "grabby clutch" post in the Panhead section. You may get lucky and have Panster's tip work for you too.

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