clutch issues

Post Reply
Panacea
Posts: 1867
Joined: Fri May 24, 2002 1:00 am
Bikes: 64FL 99FLHR 01FXSTD
Location: Mpls. MN.
Has thanked: 14 times
Been thanked: 57 times

clutch issues

#1

Post by Panacea » Sat May 19, 2007 3:08 am

I've read thru all the clutch related posts and am still curious,. When the bike is running with the tranny in neutral,clutch lever in, should the hub completely stop spinning? I can stop mine with my boot and once stopped, hold it still with my hand, but it doesn't stop enough for a good first gear without a clunk. Down shifting into first when rolling to a stop is also affected. I've got plenty of releasing action so maybe a new hub is in order? Mike



PeterRytter
Posts: 15
Joined: Fri May 11, 2007 4:12 pm
Location: Denmark

#2

Post by PeterRytter » Sat May 19, 2007 5:48 pm

You dont tell anything about your primary... Is it chain or belt ??

I know that a belt kan be a bi... to get to work. Anything have to be 100% lined up. Also the springs need to be adjustet proberly

I know a little trick from when i was driving with a 3" open belt. Take out the all the plates from the clutch and then drill the holes in the plates a size bigger than they are, this will cause them to release easier !!

But anyway, go for the alignment and afjusting first !!

Panacea
Posts: 1867
Joined: Fri May 24, 2002 1:00 am
Bikes: 64FL 99FLHR 01FXSTD
Location: Mpls. MN.
Has thanked: 14 times
Been thanked: 57 times

#3

Post by Panacea » Sat May 19, 2007 11:54 pm

It's a 1 1/2" belt which when spinning lines up perfect on the front sprocket. Has anyone noticed if their hub completely stops when using the clutch in neutral? My plates and steels seem good, but I'll have to do something to improve disengagement. Don't want to screw up the tranny. Mike

fourthgear
Posts: 1391
Joined: Mon Apr 11, 2005 1:12 pm
Location: north florida
Been thanked: 4 times

#4

Post by fourthgear » Mon May 21, 2007 10:43 pm

If you can stop it and hold it with your hand ( could be a dangerous thing to do ) Its releasing enough to shift correctly . Depends on how bad its clunking , I think most clunk some what when down shifting or going into first from neutral . if you can move the bike forward and back on a level surface with the motor running in first gear , clutch disengaged and meet little resistance , your clutch is disengaging. When not disengaging properly , you get what is called clutch creep , where the bike wants to move forward , some times a jerky motion. If you think you have a real bad jumpy kinda clunk , you might want to inspect the tranny shifter forks and or shifting clutches. The trans gear sets do need a little rotation to shift properly.

Guest

#5

Post by Guest » Mon May 21, 2007 11:29 pm

Thanks for the reply Fourthgear,By the way, do you know of a source for good front end parts? I need to put my tubes back to the stock length. I suppose JP is all taiwan stuff...Mike

lockdoc
Posts: 118
Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 1:08 am
Bikes: 65 Panhead in a 70 FLH frame
Location: Northeast PA, USA

#6

Post by lockdoc » Wed May 23, 2007 3:43 am

I have the same belt drive setup. When I got my bike I couldn't put in in gear while running without grabbing. I found there was oil on the clutches so I replaced them and also replaced the stock hub bearing set with the full length bearing setup which really helped with the jerking I would have while idling with the clutch disengaged. My hub would move in and out a lot while disengaged before hand. And yes, mine spins while engaged or disengaged.

VintageTwin
Panhead Register Member
Posts: 776
Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 7:18 pm
Bikes: '46 Knuck. '57 Panhead, '59 Panhead
Location: Repop Hell
Been thanked: 1 time

#7

Post by VintageTwin » Fri May 25, 2007 3:22 pm

Ben @ Primo told me this clutch pack would stop any and all problems forever. Check out the in-stall:
http://www.riveraengineering.com/PC-100 ... ctions.pdf

Post Reply

Return to “Clutch”