Foot clutch rocker shaft

Transmission, clutch, chains and belts
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Foot clutch rocker shaft


Post by King » Thu Jan 10, 2008 9:58 am

Description: So if any one knows where I could obtain this shaft I appreciate it.

Post by King on Jan 30, 2003, 5:25pm

The threads on my foot clutch pedal (rocker) shaft have finally gone south and thus with out the action of the star spring and friction washers it won't stay engaged with out my boot on it. I seem to recall that some supplier made a pedal (rocker) shaft that could be welded in to replace the worn-out original. But I can’t seem to find this item in the catalogues. So if any one knows where I could obtain this shaft I’d appreciate it.

Post by Cotten on Jan 31, 2003, 3:29am

Not trying to be rude or anything,... but even my wife rides with the dampener released and free-wheeling!

I am not aware of a peen-in replacement, but anyone with a lathe should be able to cut you one from scratch.
But by that time you might have learned not to need it.

If you depend upon the dampener to keep the clutch disengaged, might as well also ride with a loaded pistol to your temple.

(We shall ignore the fact that it robs you of feel for the clutch, and fatiques the clutch springs for now.....)

Post by King on Jan 31, 2003, 5:50pm

Hi Cotten

I probably worded that wrong. I'm trying to keep the clutch engaged with the rocker in the toe-down position.

When I get out on the hwy to cruise in 4th and without the damper action, the rocker rotates towards the heel-down (disengaged) position and the clutch starts to slip. I've tried adjusing it but no soap. Maybe the rod is too short or the rocker spring too strong, dont know, but when the damper was snug no-problem. Any advice on the set-up will be appreciated.

Man are you right about the loaded gun! Learned not to trust those things some time ago when I crow-hopped a 38UL into the butt end of a truck. Fortunately it was a bobber and I sort of bounced off no harm done, a cheap lesson


Post by Cotten on Feb 1, 2003, 3:00am


Sorry If I took you for a novice! I apologize!

If your pedal rotates from vibration to release the clutch, then the spring tension on the pressure plate is not doing it's job.
The manual has specs that are for dealership monkeys. If you feel that the springs are not fatigued, then tighten up the pressure plate to increase the pressure until it will not disengage spontaneously. As long as the assembly actuates parallel (the pressure plate does not tilt sideways), it will work fine.

(I wanted to type c-o-c-k sideways instead of "tilt",.. but the site would have translated it to 'thingey')

The cause of your circumstance may only be weak springs, or plates that have narrowed from use, but they will still service for many miles. It is not like a tempermental hand clutch!
I have even installed die springs into my clutches for sidecar duty, with pressures that no normal forearm could ever work with a hand lever.

Note also that the clutch arm (attached to the kicker cover) must be a proper distance from the shift lid. This assures that the springs have an angular leverage advantage to throw the arm back into engagement.

Good luck!

Post by King on Feb 3, 2003, 3:03pm

Hi Cotten

Thanks for the advice on the clutch springs. I’ll lug ‘em down a bit and see what happens. Although she is shifting quite sweet now and the clutch seems to be holding well, those springs have beaucoup miles on them and may be shot (I think I installed them in the mid 80’s) so replacement may be in order.


Post by Weez on Jul 29, 2003, 8:13am

You also can rebend the star shape washer to get more of a bend to it and get more tension out of it..I had to do that with mine before I got another pedal for it....

Post by King on Jul 29, 2003, 1:22pm

Hi Weezeo

Good Idea and a much better solution than the shims I jimmied in to tighten it up.



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