mousetrap eliminator installation

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pan50head
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mousetrap eliminator installation

#1

Post by pan50head » Tue Jan 22, 2008 6:32 pm

I wish Tedd's would include some instructions with its products. I am installing a mousetrap eliminator on a stock 1961 FLH. I previously installed a York clutch hub and plates. I think I figured out that the 'C' shaped plate bolts between the forward part of the battery plate and the frame so that the hole through which the clutch cable threads is on the lower left side. The opening of the 'C' faces forward. Am I correct so far? I have attempted to install the shorter clutch arm that came with the kit. Does the angled end point up or down? If I point it down, it hits the transmission case and won't allow enough throw to properly activate the clutch. If I angle it up, the end hits the bottom of the battery plate, which prevents a full throw. Should I indent a portion of the battery plate? Should I heat the arm and reduce some of its bend? I tried using shims under the back end of the battery plate, but the increase in height prevents the inner primary from bolting to the oil bag. I would be eternally grateful for any guidance.



panhead
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#2

Post by panhead » Wed Jan 23, 2008 10:50 am

When I used a mousetrap eliminator I had to use a longer clutch arm.

fourthgear
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#3

Post by fourthgear » Wed Jan 23, 2008 2:47 pm

pan50head
The " C " eliminator bracket , kinda only will work the one way as you described . The clutch arm cable slot will face up . As panhead said you may or may not need a longer arm, but try this first , attach the clutch cable to the clutch arm ( and hand lever )with the cable adjuster all the way in ( the lock nut , and adj. nut on the cable all the way in toward the clutch arm, meaning , alot of slack in the cable )adjust your clutch arm so that it is about 5/8 " ( some clutches my need more )away from the closest point from the ratchet top, by the adj. screw on the clutch . You will put slight pressure forward ,toward the front of the bike on the clutch arm when adj. it to take up any slack ( then tighten clutch lock nut on the clutch adj. screw ) . I used to have a sheet metal gage cut for this adj. , measurement can be tricky. Then you adj. your cable with the cable adj. on that "C " bracket , so you have the proper slack at the hand lever @ the handle bars , I think its 1/8- 1/4 " , depends on where you want your clutch to engage & disengage . I can take some photo's of my 65 ( I know the oil bags are diff . , but tranny's are the same and mine does have the eliminator on it ), I have the tranny in the frame and can put the "C" clamp on to show the sequence of adj. , if you can not visualize what I'm talking about . Not a problem .

pan50head
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#4

Post by pan50head » Wed Jan 23, 2008 6:37 pm

fourgear, pictures would be great if I could trouble you to do so. Thank you for your advice.

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#5

Post by fourthgear » Sun Jan 27, 2008 6:46 pm

pan50head
http://www.hydra-glide.com/coppermine/d ... ?pos=-1713
How long is the clutch arm that came with your kit . The one that's on my 65 is about 6 1/2 " from center of the release lever shaft , to center of slot @ cable end and it sits about 2 1/8 " above tranny (top of ratchet top to top of arm where its bent up )Hard to get photo in there .It would seem that the cable bracket needs to be under the spacers for the oil tank ,( frame mount , cable bracket , spacers , oil tank , in that order), other wise it might not be at the right angle for the cable ( that cable bracket will lift the front of the oil tank up a little & might help arm clearance problem ). Others should offer more on this .It looks like a tight fit under there . the 65 does not have that problem , because of the diff. oil tank .
I still use the mouse trap on my 58 framed Pan and have no problem with it , I like it .Feel free to ask any questions . I'm sure we can walk you through it .

pan50head
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#6

Post by pan50head » Mon Jan 28, 2008 5:36 am

Fourthgear, thank you for the picture. I think I have it figured out.

I have the same length arm as you described. I had to straighten the crook in the end of the arm to prevent the end of the arm from hitting the underside of the battery plate. I heated the arm and it bent easily.

By trial and error, I mounted the "c" bracket with the open end facing aft immediately on top of the frame ears under the forward lip of the battery plate. The hole through which the clutch cable threads is pointed up. Any other configuration would have provided a wrong angle for the cable. As it is, I had to cut a notch out of the lip of the battery plate to allow the cable to properly lead to the connection point of the arm.

With a York clutch, it works like a million bucks.

Again, I sure wish Tedd's would provide some written instructions.

heath49036
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Re: mousetrap eliminator installation

#7

Post by heath49036 » Mon Jan 14, 2013 12:36 am

Can I get a copy of that picture too please?

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Re: mousetrap eliminator installation

#8

Post by 58flh » Mon Jan 14, 2013 1:22 pm

I have found that all aftermarket eliminaters are not a BOLT & GO! ITEM. Your always going to bend,cut ,grind somthing to get em to work PROPERLY!--Its a shame really for a simple part to be so ______up!---Richie/ & when you compare them to OEM the diff. jumpout!

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