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Engine/trans/primary alignment question

Transmission, clutch, chains and belts
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cory
Posts: 19
Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:38 am

Engine/trans/primary alignment question

#1

Post by cory » Wed Feb 20, 2008 1:24 am

Can some one please explain to me how to button up the engine, transmission and primary, and where to start first. The primary is an open belt set up. The engine is out right now.
Thanks



Cotten
Posts: 6911
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 9:09 am
Location: Central Illinois

#2

Post by Cotten » Wed Feb 20, 2008 2:41 am

Cory!

You have left out too many variables for an accurate reply;
Please tell us if your frame is unaltered from the factory, if your motor and transmission components are matched, etcetera.

Any variations from stock make it a complicated answer.

....Cotten

cory
Posts: 19
Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:38 am

#3

Post by cory » Wed Feb 20, 2008 5:06 am

Cotten,
Sorry I was so vague. I have a 1960 engine, and I believe a 1964 transmission. The belt drive is a York Drive. To me it looks like a BDl?
The frame is a custom single down loop frame. It seems to be very well made tig welded frame.
After years of lusting over Panheads I've finally got my hands on one. I bought this custom Pan in October and am in the middle of tearing it down and building it my way.
Here's a few pics
Image
Image

fourthgear
Posts: 1390
Joined: Mon Apr 11, 2005 1:12 pm
Location: north florida

#4

Post by fourthgear » Wed Feb 20, 2008 11:16 am

We just had a thread on that subject ,not too long ago , you can also look around the knowledge base. Basically you tighten the rear motor mount bolts and check /shim the fronts , the top motor mount where it meets the frame is shimmed also ( it was said they were still available from HD.)Some one also brought up checking the tranny to see if it needs to be shimmed(tranny level on tranny plate and tranny plate to frame ). With a belt drive it is very important to check alignment of belt , you can have some real fun moving the tranny around to align the belt and also the belt should not be too tight .
Are you asking what goes where and in what order on the primary ? I hope you have a Panhead manual, it will help you is so many ways .

Panacea
Posts: 1857
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Location: Mpls. MN.

#5

Post by Panacea » Fri Feb 22, 2008 10:35 pm

cory, I'm no expert but the tranny looks like it was made to bolt up to an alluminum inner primary (65 up). I'm just wondering if this setup had been alighned correctly before you got it ,or are you addressing this for the first time? Or are you planning on useing an alluminum inner primary?

fourthgear
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Location: north florida

#6

Post by fourthgear » Sat Feb 23, 2008 1:46 pm

Good eye , Panacea, It does not look like the studs are in the tranny to mount it to a cast inner though . We will have to wait for his answer to your inquiry.

Panacea
Posts: 1857
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Bikes: 64FL 99FLHR 01FXSTD
Location: Mpls. MN.

#7

Post by Panacea » Sat Feb 23, 2008 6:12 pm

Fourthgear, I've never had a four speed with the allum. primary, The tranny would not be ajustable fore and aft correct? It looks like the engine is set up for the tin primary though. I guess what I'm asking is this, does a 65 up tranny case have the same bottom side that sits in two slots in the mounting plate, or is it a fixed mount? Mike

fourthgear
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Location: north florida

#8

Post by fourthgear » Sat Feb 23, 2008 11:39 pm

The problem would be the trans . electric start ,main shafts are diff. sizes , but if a non electric start main shaft was installed it would be OK , other wise you will have to shim the sprocket shaft. 36-64=11.75 " long , 65-69 = 12 " long , 70-84 = 12.5 " long , that would make a diff. in alignment of the belt/chain .He could have any of the above shafts . There should be some numbers on the tranny , see below , numbers on my 65 tranny. All the tranny plates are the same , I believe , except for the way they are made , there's a two piece welded , called a laminated type , which are I think the early one 's and then they have another ,the ones used on Shovel's , its one piece and is prone to cracking at the elongated holes for the tranny studs .

http://www.hydra-glide.com/coppermine/d ... ?pos=-1118

cory
Posts: 19
Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:38 am

#9

Post by cory » Sun Feb 24, 2008 1:27 am

Fourthgear, I do have a factory manual and a Clymers, but it really doesn't say how to do this. I just didn't know where to start- the front motor mounts or the rear. Thanks for explaining that. I do have some brass shim stock, so I'll get that finished soon.
Panecea, This trans had a tin primary. The plan now is to run it open. In the pic, I don't have the outer bearing support on. That's what the tin primary was bolted to.
The trans has an adjustable plate, so that should make things easier for lining up the belt.
Fourthgear, you kinda lost me on the mainshaft thing. I'm not to sure which one I have. I looked at the pic of your trans #'s and mine has a -64 on the end, so I assumed it's from a '64? Does the other #'s mean anything?
It does have some shims on the outer bearing support to keep the bearing from interfering with the sprocket nut.
Thanks guys

fourthgear
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Location: north florida

#10

Post by fourthgear » Sun Feb 24, 2008 3:54 am

What the length of that main shaft means , is how far it sticks out of the transmission . Since HD went to electric start in 1965 , the shaft is longer because of the change to a cast inner primary and then changed to an alternator in 1970 , which put the whole drive system further away from the motor and that had to be compensated for, not to mention a different bolt on for the inner primary at the motor end.

The fact that the trans # is 64 is odd because they went to that type of trans set up for electric start with a cast inner primary and may only mean it was made for early 65's. Did you get that number from the rear right side ? I say that only because my other Pan has a 54 trans in it and it has a number on the front right side that reads with a 64 in it.

Any aliening will be done at the sprocket shaft end ( motor end )and since you have a splined shaft , they make diff. spacers you can get to alien the sprocket shaft pulley (belt drive ) with the clutch shell (clutch drum )( using a straight edge ). You will not be able to move the trany side ways very much . you can move it for belt or chain adjustment , but the trany plate has guides in it so it can not be moved side to side .

cory
Posts: 19
Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:38 am

#11

Post by cory » Mon Feb 25, 2008 12:10 am

I went out and had another look at the #'s. I messed up, It has a 65 on it not a 64. I looked at the pic of your trans case and mine has the exact same #'s as yours. 34703 65, but instead of a 1 underneath it has a 2.
As far as spacers go, I'm not sure if mine had one or not. The belt was lined up when I bough it, and I did take notes when I pulled it all apart, but I don't remember there being a spacer. I'll know for sure early this week when I can get back out working on it.
I know the adjustable plate won't let you move it side to side, but it should let you clock the trans to get the belt to run true ??
One other thing, Can I do anything to clean up the clutch plates? Will brake cleaner harm the friction plates?
Thanks

Fixman
Posts: 142
Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2007 6:38 pm
Location: Charlottesville, VA

#12

Post by Fixman » Mon Feb 25, 2008 1:02 pm

Cory, I am sure there are many favorite ways to clean the friction plates. We use scotch bright pads and kerosene (in the parts cleaner).

Kent

fourthgear
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Joined: Mon Apr 11, 2005 1:12 pm
Location: north florida

#13

Post by fourthgear » Mon Feb 25, 2008 3:21 pm

cory
Yes , you should be able to shift it around a little , I loosen up the base plate bolts too , to get a little more free play( some even alter the holes to get it right ) . Its just a bitch to get it lined up and have it stay that way after re-tightening all the bolts and nuts , but I get it done , just so much fun.

You should have some kind of washer or shim behind sprocket shaft pulley , even the chain drive compensating sprocket assemble has one of diff. sizes to line the chain up. It may be a custom set up and not need a shim , you will know when you put a straight edge up to it .

I use mineral spirits and 80 or 100 grit sand paper to clean both friction and steel plates , sand paper always on a flat surface, pane of glass etc.

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